Mudge

Don't forget a glaze breaker

Agreed, when you look at the time and expense of building up that kind of car, it will not only be a $erious project, but I try to be realistic with myself and what I want to do with the car. For me horsepower is not a priority, I want more than stock, but the L6 will suit most peoples needs for awhile. Quite frankly few drivers even in a straight line could make good use of 400-500 HP in a 2500 pound car, I could go sideways at about 55 MPH with about 411 RWHP, in a heavier car - more power/weight ratio than that (and less weight on the tires!) and you are going to be skating like your on ice. I also have learned to agree with the rust comment, unless its only in a spot that you were planning to immediately put fiberglass on right away, your going to spend more time and money fixing it than spending a little more buying a nice $1000-$2000 great shape Z, but if you find it in one spot, it is likely elsewhere as well...

Just about any 350 Chevy can be built to make 400/430 HP at the crank, although you can put out a good number of pony with a 2.8L too, in regards to a road car that is, for drag, without a turbo most setups are going to be under 300HP. I'm an LT1 guy, so being familiar with them, and already having decent heads/intake stock, that would about be my suggestion for the price to performance ratio. With a good exaust and some air intake work figure on about 300HP at the crank, if not a tad more (a tad, not alot). Add a cam and you can get to about 400 HP without touching the heads, with a 244/244 solid roller on a stock head 93 Camaro (and a supposedly bad tune) someone made around 400 RWHP, which is about 450 crank, that is some serious pony even in a 3400+ pound car. Plus, having a T56 rocks IMO! Good luck

Goodness, how did you do that? LoL, did you slip on the air under your feet? ha ha ha If it was sex, thats one thing, if you were snorting coke or something then maybe they should have seen it. Hope it was something somewhat innocent!

If it has not yet been said, you can get a BULK TAPE ERASOR at Radio Shack, or swap the guts internally from another tape, or VCR and record over as already mentioned in second post

I looked at it for about 3 seconds before I came to the same conclusion LoL

Lack of standards = more accurate? Or was that a typo.

Most guys as I recall lose 2-3MPG when going with a different rear gear, not just 1MPG, otherwise GM would probably have been more flexible for performance reasons.

Could cause a nasty reversion effect by blocking the exaust gas, why not buy a set off eBay and fix em up.

www.f-body.org/gears I would say it depends on how you build the engine, I had a somewhat largish cam but stuck with 3.42 rear gears, that was with a 255x50 - 16

Vacuum leak or bad timing could do it, have you done anything recently to the car?

Intake elbow or intake elbow hack job yourself, this is where the vacuum lines go. Need the vacuum lines, and new 95+ wiring harness, this plugs into your stock harness, the connector is longer than the 92-94 setup, alternative is hacking up the Opti, which could cause issues that RTV may not keep at bay. Other than that, you just need some gaskets, and a way to pull the LT1 hub, after removing the balancer. If you haven't done this before, well unfortunately SBC pullers dont work on the LT1. I used a 1/2" longer crank bolt to do most of the work, along with the regular puller, here is some info: http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html The thread info for the bolt is also listed in the above URL, which I picked up at Napa

330HP for the LT4, a mild cam (not the HOTCAM), better exaust/intake manifolds, and better heads. Roller rockers are cheap, plus you dont see them under the intake. I chose non SA rockers (+guideplates), but they dont fit under the stock LT1 valve covers without work, as for the Vette LT1 covers they are easier to work with, and they are composite plastic, are ~$200 to order those seperately but I may do that someday.

LT4 is nothing special, other than having 4 bolt mains, not worth the price IMO. You could get a Vette LT1 if you wanted, but those are also usually not worth the price. Unless your going to rev over 7,000 RPM with an aftermarket PCM, or put out over 550 RWHP, I would not bother with 4 bolt mains, from what I have seen put together the 2 bolt will work very well with most any NA setup kept at reasonable RPM levels, 8,000 RPM well, I'd like the insurance. The ZF only came in the Vette, and I know the flywheel is not the same as the FBod's, so sounds like it could bring some PITA into play as far as a swap goes.

Balancing would be recommended IMO, but for those staying below 150 MPH your probably fine - but why not balance it for those 'just incase' situations

I have spoken with a guy that did Trans Am racing awhile back, and they used Griffin and recommended Griffin, and heard good from others - in fact, recommended Griff over the BeCool which many seem to think is "the best".

94 LT1, 411 RWHP @ 5900 RPM (ignition miss ), 11.4:1 compression (shaved and .026" gasket). Skyline Blvd is nice yes, about once a month it seems a biker runs headon into someone and eats it. I have seen some nice Vipers and an occasional Cobra-Replica up there...

I know some of the muscle car guys are trashing the Flowmasters, and picking up as much as .2 in the quarter, going with Hookers/Borla etc

http://members.cox.net/chipsbyal/idle.htm http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/ http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/DSCF0706.JPG http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/DSCF0699.JPG http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/DSCF0704.JPG

Descreening the stock housing is a "2 second job", removing the plenum is not. I still recommend firmly against it, its there for a reason. The screen was removed from the 2001 Z06 because they have a straight intake shot, if you setup your car the same way then its probably ok, I still like the plenum however and the screen on my LT1 with its contorted air intake setup. The screen helps ensure nice even flow over the MAF sensor itself, especially when there are twists in the intake ducting. Play with your STOCK MAF fields in the PCM instead of buying a GR unit, I have spoken to the guy in email and I like him, but the product is a waste of money. Many people either have no gains, or lose speed at the track, only a rare few speak up and say "yeah, I got 5HP", do it yourself in the PCM since your going to tune it anyway right? The LS1 MAF does not have the same frequency range as the LT1s, wiring harness differences aside. I can put you in touch with people who have done work with an LS1 unit I believe, I know the Z06 was looked at but that was a no go. If you really want a larger housing then grab one, but I would still work with the stock MAF over an aftermarket unit. As for the air foil: http://www.ws6.com/mod-4.htm While ever so slightly it may increase power (while moving), you can get a cheap 52mm TB for barely more than that. I however just ran a 58mm, fixed the screwed up casting (they are not like the stock casting, I can explain if someone wants detail on this), and bored out the LT1 intake for it.

I could make suggestions based on what you want out of the car, but my cam is proprietary and has to remain that way (I know, stupid, but thats how some people retain thier secrets and therefore think that it retains biz).

DONT buy a ported MAF, they are a waste of money, and people who see actual GAINS from them are RARE. I ported my own, and tuned it to 110% of the stock MAF tables (10% increase estimation obviously), and that brought my car back in tune for the most part, but caused more PITA than good. The MAF is not a restriction for most people, there is a guy in CA running a street legal blown 383, high 9 second, through the stock "restrictive" MAF and even the single CAT, it is fully legal. My advice, is to find a reasonable under $100 completely stock unit off eBay or CamaroZ28.com etc, I found a set of stock MAF ends with the screen and plenum in tact and bought it for only $35, since my MAF itself was still good I used the housing and returned my MAF fields to stock. The aftermarket wants your money, and more often than not there is alot of BS advertising best case scenarios which are few and far between in the real world, underdrive pulleys follow the same law of BS on LT1 cars. JMO from my own experiences and observations

* Hotcam kit $459 from Jason Cromer * Meziere sucks, known for premature failures, CSI is rated to last a thousand hours longer, flows more (not much of course), and has no problems for me so far * MAF housing, waste of money * Airfoil, reponsible for 1.1 HP increase, waste of money * Ajustable FP regulator, good for 93 cars, worthless for others as the computer will compensate to keep BLMs close to 128, which DOES affect your WOT calculations, save your money. Magazines are more often sales tools, than real down to earth sensability.

Just look at those big pimpin wheel$ too...

Paxton Kamikaze? Did that come out of a Pinto?