Mudge

Or of course, right click on the picture, and save it

Thats a Ford engine, from a 95 Mustang.

If you road race you should be fine, as for drag guys, when you drop into the lower 10s thats when they start breaking on 3400#+ cars, and thats when the TH400s start coming out. I know of a 10.8@130 successfully, and some other high 10s, but a local guy got into the low 10s and broke his I think 4 times and then gave up on the T56. Its strong enough, but with huge slicks and a heavy car... its abuse.

Yep, its a TT on a 95 Mustang.

It could be that way for anti reversion, as long as its not the other way around its probably not a big performance hit, especially on a street car.

The 94 Opti sucks with or without the vacuum harness, but yes, you can hack it into place yourself. The Vette guys were doing this early on as well.

Make sure the engine is built for it.

Wow, I will search, and see what I can find. Thanks!

http://zcar.netdojo.com/5lug.htm

I seriously doubt it, T5s can break behind a crappy 305, although in a heavier car that doesn't help. I doubt there is a mating plate for the job anyhow.

I've gotten one response via email from someone who has somewhat forumulated a plan for this, much thanks! Anyone else? If not many people have given serious thought about this I'd be somewhat supprised, ultimately its much cheaper than an aftermarket computer (unless you seriously score a great used price, which sometimes happens!). I think this is a great idea and will continue to look into it...

The LT4 made 330 crank HP, not a big deal. It had better heads (about $1150 assembled, not worth it), better intake (raised runner for both), and a small cam. The LT4 HOTCAM was not the same as the standard LT4 cam. Port your heads and run a better cam if you want power. Yes, the 95 and up opti is much better, you need a timing cover, new Opti wiring harness (one setup of wires which plugs into the wiring harness), and vacuum lines to the TB ducting, which means new TB ducting or just cut your own holes with a punch. It basically has better sealing, and is rebuildable, otherwise it performs the same function.

On thier behinds (frame by frame, like Gumby) http://bekow.free.fr/vroom/vroom_mpg.mpg

Cage, strut tower bars would be my first two choices. High HP in a unibody car especially, will twist the body, stiffen up that bad boy.

Just curious, if anyone has chosen for example, a Pontiac/Buick or other computer for ease of programming (Tunercat), and cost, versus an aftermarket setup? Or if this has not yet been done, has anyone done any study into the idea? Mainly this question is for an injected L28 setup, although I do not see why it would not easily enough be adapted to other cars. http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html

Are we talking Turbo SVO injectors? Because the other types they have (24/30/36/42# etc) are high impedance, 39psi rated.

Has anyone considered, or aware of the possibilities of running a 6 speed trans from a 350Z or other car, on an L28? Is it doable, or would it require an adapter plate, or even further work? Just taking a shot in the dark on possibilities before the someday-V8/T56 swap.

What are you guys using to program the ECM/PCMs with on the Ford cars? Do they all require a PROM burner, or are some of them flashable?

Sure would be nice if there was a 5.0 FAQ for this

Sometimes spending a little more up front is worth it, I think alot of the time your finds depend on how desperate someone is to get rid of thier car.

http://img25.ac.yahoo.co.jp/users/4/3/3/2/satosi19620209-img600x450-1027905261dsc00122.jpg Right click over any linked object and hit PROPERTIES.

Are you guys talking about using the GN's stock computer, or an aftermarket setup? I was wondering about using a V6 setup from a GM car, since Tunercat supports alot of GM products...

Tim, the LT1/T56 was still in good shape? You scored big time if that was a complete setup and everything was good! Did you buy off an individual or a lucky eBay bid?

Hmm, interesting. There is a local guy with a built up big block (700 something HP NA + big nitrous shot), and his builder recommended non-synthetic 15w-50, recommending non synthetic seemed the most odd... So I suppose possibly a straight weight oil is a thing of the past?

A CSI for the L6? Sweet, I have one on my LT1 and its been good to me so far, street and RR.