DatsunBoy77

UPDATE: The car starts and idles good. Will rev ujp nicely. Went to take it for a test drive and it started out good. Then started not to feel right. The RPMS dont lkike to drop down in nuetral after accelerating. They take a couplke os seconds to drop. Right now i have it at what looks like 20 degrees, may be off a degree or two. A little playing with the afm and seemed to make it feel btter but still rpm's sticking. If in nuetrasl they fall back fine but after accelerating they dont. When i get back from work tonite i will do a search and see what comes up. And thanks for the help. Ryan

well, ya'll were right..... again. I turned the crank from over the drivers side fender reaching down, while my hand was accross the motor plugging the no.1 hole. Yep, she was off 180. Good call. Well, back to dropping my oil pump for the 5th and definatly not last time (have the MSA oil pump spring kit on the way). Lets see if this baby starts today.

maybe i will try this so i know that is what my problem is. If it is, would i get it to the top dead center withought putting my finger on the spark plug hole considering i cant reach it? I have an idea but i cant seem to get it out right when i write it.

I was trying but i could only turn it from underneath and couldnt reach. Maybe if i remove the carbon canister, i can reach the plug hole. I just couldnt get access to it from the top. To bad i can never get one of my friends to help me. I always seem to end up working on theres but they never seem to be around when i am working. Oh, well.

Ive gone over the wire order a couple of times, and they were right. When i put it at TDC and have the distributor in the middle (as in not advanced or retarded), the rotor points to the no.1 labeled on the dizzy cap. Maybe I will give a go at it again tomarrow morning before i go to work.

Now, i have done confused myself silly. I went out to crank it a couple of mins ago since it stopped raining finally, and I only cranked it for a couple of seconds and it popped right out of the pop-off valve. This souldnt happen. This motor ran very good before this wiring mess in the swap. Then it ran decent but too far retarded. Now that i think it is right it wont start. I am lost.

That is true, I think. But, can it be when at TDC and the rotor faced at the 1 on the cap? Damn, i think i am just to confused from everything i have been trying to do.

ok, now i have it so the rotor is exactly at the no.1 spark plug wire on the dizzy cap. Car still wont start though. It ran before it did this. I would have done some more checking but damn thunderstorms. I wonder if the belt being justa tad bit loose is preventing it from starting. It shouldnt, but i am running out of answers. It just cranks and then once in a while you will hear a pop. Maybe i should try some starting fluid. Oh, well. Cant get at it to tomarrow anyways with the storms.

Ok, so today i threw in some new plugs and it wouldnt crank over. Checked the crank and put it to TDC, pulled off the dizzy cap and noticed that the rotor looks like it may be a tooth off of where it should be. It looks like it is a notch back towards the number five plug. This is a pain in the arse, getting it to move one tooth. I thought it was dead on last night. Would it being off that one tooth keep it from starting. Before i did this it would start, but only run up to 10 deg, so i know it had to run if the shaft was off by some teeth.

Actually, 1 1/16 was the perfect size. I managed to manually crank it just a smudge over 0 so i just backed it up a inch or two. Got everything straightened out but think i may have fouled out the plugs cranking it till it got at TDC. Didnt want to really run, so i will throw in the new plugs i hae bee saving and sees what is sappening. I got to be at work at four so not much time left.

Well, i hope to god i can find that socket. Good thing i work at an auto parts store.

OK, first off because of the swap there is little room to get to the bolt holding on the hamonic balancer to turn the crank, so i have been trying to crank the car until i hit TDC. Got it yesterday but messed up and i cant get it today after a half hour of trying. Anyone know what size socket that it and what is the best way to get it to tdc. The repair manual just says turn the crank to TDC, but i have no room to even stick my hand in there to even feel the nut (hmmm sounds a little bad, huh?).

Oddly enoughy, holley recomended that one for my car. This is why i ask you guys. I will go back through the catelog. On a side note i can get their RRFPR for like $160, so i think i will end up getting that.

Also, does anyone know what our fuel pump is rated at? I can pick up a holley being a distributor for a good price, rated at 135 LPH at 45 psi. Is that just slightly more than stock. It seems to be a decent inline pump, running me around $125 or so. I usually would get about $160 for it.

Quick update. I went out to check my timing today, and my guin was broken. So, i turned it by ear.When i am about all the way advanced, it idles so much better and revs much better. Have to go get a new gun later. Tried adjusting the AFM, it is probably running a bit rich. Other than that, it sounds better idling and just revving it in nuetral. Put it in gear and it seems to move decent. Give it gas and it the turbo is at full boost and loud but no faster acceleration. Might get a a quick jolt, but then just stops moving. Also, takes a while for the rpms to come back down. I am pretty sure it is some sort of electrical problem, because when this motor was running of of the 77 setup, it ran much better but pig rich. I guess i will throw in my 6th set of spark plugs in the last 2 months. Hopefully, now that i have the correct sensor, it may work better. Will see over the weekend.

good idea. i tried adjusting the ps but saw no difference. Maybe mine is bad. Maybe i have a bad ecu or AFM also.I know the motor works because it ran good before i decided to wire it correctly. I am going to tinker some more and see what happens after i get out of work today.

If you rev the engine in nuetral it is fine after 2500 rpms where is sputters. I will know more later as i havent had much time to run it.

I would say maybe alternator except it is not like having a dead battery. It is like not even having a batery hooked up and then after 10 mins it starts up fine. I t did start up again after i got bored after posting the last message. But when it is running, it runs the same wheather or not that sensor i broke in the t-stat hosing is plugged in. I am gussing i have to buy this sensor again and find a way to get the old one out.

Well, i hope everyone else's swap is going better. Mine just took a turn for the worst. Today i installed my new temperature sender, kinda. Almost all the way in and it started tightnening up. I would just back it out and try going in again. I should have taken this as a sign to give up for today. Instead i broke the sensor in the housing. Great. So i glued it bak together. Now i started it up and it ran a litte ruf, could rev it up. So i let it warm up and decided to take it for a quick run. Went to go take off and at about 2500 it began to sputter. I gave it some gas and it revved right up and the turbo was at full boost, i wasnt moving though. When i had the old setup on this motor it would rocket. I came home and turned it off. Changed burnt cap and rotor. Switched wires on a senso thinking they may be backwards. Adjust the AFM a little leaner as it was adjusted rich before. Went to start it up and it idled very bad and finally just died, but i could hear a loud clicking in the car, possibly fom the fuel pump relay. Turned the ignition off. Clicking stopped. Swithced wires back around. Next, i tried to start it up again. Nothing. Not even the fuel pump turning on. Guess i will try my spare fuel pump relay. But not anything. I will check fusable links again but they looked alright. Maybe it is time i pulled out every thing and just go stand alone system route. Maybe i should try megasquirt because funds arent looking to good right now. Anyone with some good news?

It wouldnt even click. I could hear my fuel pump on and when i ried to start it you could hear the fuel pump go off and nothing would hapen. It was wierd almost as if the battery had no juice. I am trying not to really worry about it yet. Once i get it all hooked up, then i will see if it does it again.

Smoothline makes great fenders but 500 for the pair is expensive. I was gonna say screw it and get the widebody and drop 1300 on front and rear fenders, but i thought the 700 front fenders were full fenders but now i hear they are just panels to be bonded on. But smoothline, as far as i know, are the best and only other fiberglass fender makers i know. Also their fiberglass hood is only 250 plus shipping. Stock looking though.

Well, i got her running a little smoother. Until i get my ner temperature switch on Friday i tried splicing the two wire sensor i have and the car runs. I revved it up a few times and after riching it up threw the AFM it revvs good. Took it out for a test drive and it sputters in high rpms where it wont build boost and starts backfiring through the intake. I imediatly pulled in home, got out and tried revving it lightly.It backfires through the intake lightly as the rpms were falling. Turned it off and it wouldnt start back up, not even a click. Two hour when i got back home it cranked over. Diagnosis: Don't do things the ghetto way. Hopefully on friday i will have better news. I miss heaing the boost. Especially on a 70 degree day in upstate NY. Can't gloat too long, as snow may be rearing it ugly head in at the end of the week.

You can do test and tune in your own driveway. You could even charge people to test out there.

I am alomost positive now that i have the wrong sensor. I will have to get ahold of the old owner. So which sensor is which. Is thee water temp sensor the top one? Well i guess i will find out by tuesday. Thanks for all the help.

see, i have one bullet and one with the two prongs comming out as the same way he fuel injectors are. I think this is the one for the 77. I will see if i can find the right sensor somewheres. Thanks.