DatsunBoy77

Thank you, i cant wait, but unfortunatly, I just had a knee operation yesterday, so i am haveing trouble typing this from the hydrocodon. But once i am not drugged up i will begin programing and wiring up the unit. Thanks and cant wait to hear how it goes.

I am planning on running 16x8 front and 16x10 in the rear from those guys. I just have to figure out the offest once i get my coilovers in.

These ones have the correct positioning on the endtanks because they are made for those who had a JDM motorswap that has he same style radiator as ours. But just an inch shorter all around.

Actually i found on ebay radiators made for 240sx with a sr20 conversion. They are slightly smaller by like 1 inch than ours and are thicker all aluminum. Plus they were cheap. I will probably go that way, i will see if i can find a link. Ryan

Yeah juan, if you could get them into a 15", that would be amazing. Tires in 16" with are tough to find in 275 width. 15" has tons of advailable sizes. Plus, many more people with 15".

is that california area code? No 1800 number... hmmmm. Might have to make this call from work.

What are the measurements of, it. It looks great in your car. Yeah, the number would be great. It looks like it fits in there like stock. That is the main reason i didnt want to go with some aftermarkets, because i didnt want to go larger than original as far as length and height, just width. And dont nothing look prettier than a shiny aluminum radiator.

Dammit i havent gotten anything from them for a while. Its only been maybe 4 months since my last order. Damn them, but i really dont mind. I have nothing but time now. Damn knee surgery. I wont be able to put one in for a while, go figure, i finally get the car half stripped and now i cant work on it for what seems like ever.

Where does MSA advertise on their site and their book for an aluminum one. All i could find was a 4 core brass core and fin one. i couldnt seem to find any aluminum.

Is anyone out there running an aluminum radiator. I noticed mine leaking at the bottom seem the other day when i was pulling out my engine. How many of us have put in aluminum radiators? I think i want to put in one just slightly smaller side to side but thicker so that way it will be easier for the intercooler install. i am doing a restore on the car and want something nice looking as well as very functional since i am going almost all out. Ryan

Definatly a rear hatch, as only showcars makes them, and no one really wants show cars products anymore.

The previous owner of my 77 turbo drove last winter delivering food. I just put it away yesterday for a full restore now. Salt=

I believe for the tach you will need a tach adaptor like the one msd sells. That is the last part i need to set up my new 6AL, I think the part number is 8920, someone please correct me if i am wrong. Go figure, at my work we sell msd and i can get all of thier different adaptors except that one.

What about the turbos like http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2434656391&category=33742 that you see on ebay. i am running a turbo header w/ external wastegate, and i am looking for a different turbo than the one i am was going to run on this that i dont really understand because it is a KKK turbo. Is the compressor side too small?

I am going to start on mine soon, i just have to figure out how to do ignition. I am tryin MS'n'S but would like to go DIS, but that probably wont happen. What is everyone else using for ignition. Ryan

I get the same results when just grounding the wire as i do the distributor. 9v at positive, and near 0v (like .03) at the negative. With the wire hanging I get 12v on + and -. With the capacitor in place i get the same result as the wire just hanging because i cant get any power going throguh it, that is why i get 12v on the + & - of the coil (aka "both sides"). Does this seem right? -ryan

i have the fsm for that year and everything matches. It is just as soon as the distributor touches the block i loose voltage at the coil. Down to 9 volts on + and almost none on -. With the capacitor in place i get 12v on both sides but nothing after the capacitor.

The black wire is what i am talking about. The capacitor went bad, i couldnt get any power going through it. Reomved it and now i have power running all the way through the distributor, but seems to ground out as soon as the distributor touches the block. Maybe the capacitor is needed. I dunno. It doesnt seem right that the distributor would just ground out like that all the sudden.

Ok, i am getting frustrated. Is it normal for the whole distributor to positivly charged? When i pull it out of the car and just hook up only the wire going from the coil to it i can touch the distributor anywhere and get 12V? As soon as it touches the block it loses all power. I am sure now it has nothing to to with my wiring harness, as i dont even have it hooked up to the distributor. Can anyone verify if this is right or if the distibutor has some kind of short or something. Ryan

i got a few minutes to work on it today and soon all weekend. I think i may have pinpointed it to maybe the distributor is grounding out or has some sort of short in it. If i take the distributor out of the car and hook up the wire from the coil i get 12v, as sson as i put it inot plae i get under 9v at the + on the coil. My gasket for the distributor had ripped off in one part as the distributor touches to the metal now. Would this cause it todrop power. not in the car power goes through it, and as soon as it touches the hole all power is lost. All this was tested without the cas hooked up to the wiring harness. i am gonna get some gasket material and make a gasket and see if it makes a difference. Man does this problem have me guessing.

Sorry, 83 turbo motor. I just need it to run for 1 day so i can get it off the road. Oh yeah, i dont know if this means anything, but if i test for resistence from the CAS disk to the end of the plug off the distributor, i get no resistence to one of the plugs, a little over 5.10 in one and then total resistance between the other two. The one plug reading over 5, is that normal?

This is on my electric distributor, so i think it is actually a ballast resistor, i think, not a condensor. I know that think is shot as there si resistence from one end to the other. This is a very confusing problem. I am starting to think it is a grounding problem, but it is odd, how it ran fine one day but wouldnt start all the sudden. Cleaning up the distribuor helped, but still not enough power. it seems it loses power as soon as you connect the wire from the negative terminal of the coil to the distributor. Before yo connect it 12v, after 9v on + and like 3v or so at the - on the coil. Is that from the ballast resistor taken out?

ok, first off i thought i had a bad distributor. Now i think it is fine. Maybe. With the wire to the dizzy unplugged, i get 12v on both terminals of the coil. When attached it drops down to 9v on the positive and even way lower on the negative side. There was a ballast reieter (or at least it looked like on) between the negative terminal of the coil and the dizzy, but power stopped going through it. I cleaned up the dizzy a little and it made a difference as every thing was nasty with a ton of resistence. Now i am back to no resistance on the dizzy, but still losing power when dizzy power hooked up. At that terminal i only get like .30v when connected. Before i cleaned it, it was at .02v at the most. Does anyone think my problem is grounds? I am getting no resistence through almost everything. No spark at the coil when i put the coil wire 1/4" from the block. I cant figure it out. Ryan

anyone have any clues. I get no power out of resistor, but bypass it and i only get 9v's. I am confused. help.