DatsunBoy77

oh yeah, it is a ballast resistor, not a condensor. My bad. I cant get a new one at the auto store. Anyone have a spare?

tippity top top

Did anyone notice when he shows the hood open there is no blower on it, and when you look at the engine bay there is no way it is functional. If it was older with the dual point injection, maybe. But as a multiport injection it wont be funtcional. Especially since it is only attatched to the hood. Stupid.

ok, i guess that condensor must be very important. With the wire hooked up to the dist. and with ondensor in place, i get 12v at the coil. Withought the condensor i dont. But if i disconnect it at the distributor and dont hook up the condensor i got 12v at the coil. Does this make sense to anyone or am i crazy. Hopefully one of you lovely electrical engineers can make this make sense to me.

Shoot, i only have the condensors with the 1 wire, not the one i need with 1 wire at each end. Now at the parts store i work at we have lots of different condensors, does it matter as long it is for a 12 volt vehicle?

ok, so i go out with my trusty multimeter to test my distributor. Nothing, i figure it has to be bad. So them i test the connector from the - on coil to dizzy and find no power. So i bypass the condensor and power. Hook back up condensor, no power. There is my problem. I know i have some spare ones laying around. Once i find them i will try to start the car. Will starting it bypassing the condensor hurt anything if for only a moment to see if it gets spark? I really dont want to and am wanting to see if that is what the problem is. Well at least i have been cleaning all my grounds. Ryan

Yeah i get full voltage at the coil and at the power module. I have checked that wire and followed it back but never checked the ohm's on it. Maybe i will try that later.

I am definatly getting fuel. The plugs get wet and that is all you can smell after cranking it. Maybe it is the CAS. Now I am going to switch to megasquirt and have plans to use the stock distributor, now would it be more sensible to but a new distributor with a lifetime warrantee or just continue to buy used ones? This bad one is my second since i got the car in january.

Yah, i was worried that the cas would do that. So i just want to make sur i test it right. Basically just remove the distributor but leave the wire connected from the coil and spin the rotor by hand. As it is spinning i should have power coming out of the harness. Do i check each pin for voltage or is there another way to test it? Help. No manuals i have touch on the turbo dizzy. ryan

Just wondering now, I have been fooling with my car (83 turbo motor) for weeks withought getting any spark. I am now wondering if it may in fact be the ecu. I say this because i have tried a different coil and different power module. According to my chilton's you could hold the couil wire 1/4" from the block and it should emit a spark. Nothing. If my distributor was bad i would still get a spark from the coil, correct. The ecu controls the spark going into the power module, i think. I gotta go back throgh the manual and reeread that section again. Well, my real question is there a way to find out if my ecu is toasted withought haveing to buy a $600 eccs analyizer. Thanks for any info. If anyone has one for cheap let me know, i only really need if for a couple weeks till i start my megasquirt conversion. I just have to make sure the car is running right first. Ryan

i have the shaft for it too if you need.

hey moby, what year na dizzy you want. I have my stock 77 if you want it.

Wouldn't negative offset push te wheel out towards the fender? I thought the more positive offset the tire gets moved in like if you tried to put a fwd wheel on it hits the strut. Negative would do the opposite, right?

Its an 83. The fsm only shows them testing the NA dizzy with the vacuum advance. So if i test the wires comming from the cas while cranking, there should be power out or just nothing if it is dead, right?

OK, i have gone through everything and replaced the old, but havent had spark in 4 weeks now. At first it seemed to be a bad switch, but now i have power going into the 5 mile old coil. The wires have only maybe 50 miles top. Cap and rotor maybe half that. New plugs. Nothing. How can i test the dizzy. The fsm i have mainly shows the NA dizzy, not the turbo. Anyone know a quick way to determine if it is dead.

Should i be getting 12+ volts at bothe the positive and negative on the coil? It seems that the negative should be 0, right?

i had a coolant temp sensor unplugged once and it did that. I think you already checked that i think i read, but thats all i can think of.

into the atmosphere will be loud. That is how i am hooking mine up once i get some time.

the preivious owner set it u when his ignition lock cylinder broke. He set it up as push button. I have a new ignition key setup but now there is just a cut harness. i found a wire hanging that was always hanging and when i hook it up to power i can here something kick on in the engine bay. Once i get someone elsse here i will see what it is. Ryan

Alright after some testing and eplacing some items i cant seem to get any spark. It is odd because i had spark before, but then every once in a while, nothing. Then when it went out i figured that damn ignitot chip. Nothing still. Checked everything and figured out there is no pwer coming out to the ignitor chip, my switch went bad. Replaced that and i have 12 volts on both sides of the coil. No spark still. Changed the coil after the last time i had problems with spark so i have a accel coil with like 5 miles on it i am hoping isnt already bad. But no power out of coil. Could it be a grounding problem? I have driven this car 70 miles since january and pay a lot for insurance so i am going to take it off the road soon. I just want to have it running before i take it off and switch to megasquirt.

Hey Juan, does it have the rear skirt for that kit. I have to go to work no and i will be there to late, but i was going to buy that rear bumper soon. I was thinking bout shaving the rear, but it scares me because it seems someone is always bumping my cars. Also some interior parts i know you cant use on your 240. Maybe i can stop by and take a look at it when i can get some time. Ryan

Hey Juan, i have been looking at that car. It seems nice. I would like to buy it but i got too much work to do now. I am about to try doing the floorboards once i can find a garage for rent so i can pull the car off the road. I have got a spare room at my house building up with car parts. Have you gone down and taken a look yet? Ryan

Good luck finding that hub. Every JY in the area dont have em. Lake Auto did and i was going back up to grab them, and they got rid of all the datsuns and the turbo 300zx sitting there with 5 lug. It really pissed me off. I asked what happened to them all and no one even knew. All the people that used to work there are gone. There are no old datsuns in the area anymore. I found some up near Rochester, but that is a long ride. I think some members had some for sale a while ago. Ryan

Actually after doing some searching i found that wheel is also made in a 5x114 with +15mm so the 300zx hubs will work in the front, but seeing how i dont want to run spacersi, i think i will try to make some 5x120 hubs in the back so every thing will fit perfect and no spacers needed. Anyone have trouble fitting 17X8's in the front?

what size rail is that. Holley only seems to offer 12, 18, & 36" lengths. The 18 seemed to small when i held it up next to the injectors by maybe an inch. I bought the 36" with plans to cut it down. Hey i got it for $32 so i cant complain.