DatsunBoy77

oh, yeah and i must add the only reason i would ask this question is i am very strict on not running spacers. Also, that bolt pattern leaves not much advailable in a 0 offset wheel, unlike 5x120. If i were to use 5x114 the closest i can get is +17mm. Also, how do you think 16x7 in the front and 17x8 in the rear would look. I am not into lare rims really but for the prices i can get hooked up with right now i just may.

Ok, i thnk i already know the answer but seeing that Ross's kit converts to 5x114, can they actually be drilled for 5x120? I can get a great deal on 17's if this size works. But next problem is the front. If i go to the 300zx front hubs, i am guessing they are the same size. Can the fronts be changed to 5x120 in any way. Actually the different offset in the front would work perfectly to. Basically this would net me some 17X8's for $400 brand new never mounted.

Problem is when you switch to the header from your stocker usually you end up changing the turbo. I have a turbo header, but with that the turbo will be different.

I emailed showcar once and it took them about a month to get back to me to ask me what car it is for. I had given them a part number and description and they still couldnt figure out what it was withought what car it is for. that seems odd to me.

OK i am waiting for my book to be translated by someone now, but they are only doing a few spots that i need to know or it would take them forever. First one to find a manual online for the EVC 1 or 2, will recieve a Paypal transfet of $5! that is right, just sit on the web and search. The first one with the correct instructions will recieve $5!!!! Ryan

I work for Advance Auto Parts so most of the crap i get is cheap, except for the ignitor for my turbo engine, which if anyone has one i am looking for it so i can drive it again.

i was planing on welding from the inside to keep from the welds rusting. I am also planning on using window weld selent around the seems and the por 15 them to lock out moisture. I am just going to get the sheets of metal from my work for about 40 dollars to do both floors and where ever esle i can find rust in there. I only will probably weld the floor support from underneath. Ryan

Yeah i went though that post, but i dont have a lift to do it on so i am mainly asking if anyone has attempted to do this themselves while the car is on the ground or on ramps. I figure i can do a majority while the car is on the ground to keep the chassis from twisting. Anyone have any insight to this. And yes your post was very helpful as to how the floors should look.

I think i will go for the $20 sheets of steel. Anyone have any ideas about the frame rails under the floorboards that come with the zed fiindings and msa kits. Do they actually just replace the frame rails or just extra supports? Nyone with pics of their custom job so i can see how it should look. Ryan

OK, i am just looking for a go for it mainly. I am still a novice using mig welder but i will have some good practice coming up. Does anyone think it would be safe doing your own floorboards. I fear this because being a unibody. I have seen posts of others doing this. Would it be easier doing this from inside the car instead of under? Tjhis way it would put less stress on the body than having it jacked up and doing from underneath. I also plan on using the Zedd Findings floor boards. I can get a really good deal on sheet metal for floor boards or like $24 for a 5'x3' peice. That would be cheaper than $240+shipping. Anyone have any suggestions.

If anyone can come accross detailed instructions on the first or second gen, please let me know. The third gen wont work. Thanks, Ryan.

i have a first gen HKS EVC. I have been trying to find instructions. I will se what i can do as far as scanning it.

i cant eamil symbols i think. Although i did fin most of them. Some more complex symbols i believe are probably cobination of words or something. I need to learn this language dammit. Maybe i can find someone with a scanner though. I will see.

Alright i finally got a boost controller, an electronic one, but i am confused by the directions, mainly because they are in japanese. Tried to translate but no luck. Alright, well it will be going on my external wastegated turbo setup soon, which confuses me. From the lloks of the external wastegate, there are two vacuum lines. Should there be a vacuum line comming off of the turbo? I see on the t3 there is vacuum coming off of the turbo, but my new one looks like there is none. Anyone have a picture of how their electric boost controllr is hooked up. I understand a manual boost controller but the electronic one has three lines. Ryan

yeah i finally got the car running right two weeks ago and now the ignition module went. There is not one junkyard in my area with a turbo 280zx. There uis a turbo 300zx so i may try theirs.

definatly check your timing. I had problems like that when i did mine. Unfortunatly i have had nothing but a string of bad luck. I need a damn garage. I have had the car since the end of january and only put 50 miles on it. Also when my timing was too far retarded i was showing about 18-19 Hg when i was at about 10 deg and after i put it up to about 24deg it is back up to 20-21 hg.

Does anyone have the diagram for the maf so i can get those wires right. I tried searching some more and got some good hits but still lack just a bit. There should be a explicit write up on how to do this to keep from these posts.

Alright a couple of searches have brought up a few answers but i can get a shot at a turbo 300ZX for parts and i need some. This winter i hope to go with the Commander 950 stand alone but for now i am gonna get the 300zx ecu and maf. My main prob is my ignition module went and i was gonna grab the 300zx one. Will this work? I havent looked at them yet but finding a 280zx turbo is near impossible around here.

not anymore. i tried contacting them a while ago for one but they wouldnt even give me their old distributor of them, or they may not even know who. I even had the part number but nothing.

YEAH, shipping is killer on those. It would need to be crated and will coast you more then the part is worth. I tried having one shipped from PA to NY and it cost about $400 for about 4 hours trip worth of driving.

Damn it looks good, but there is no rear hatch. He completely molded it all. Looks great but wounldnt want to not have access to the rear.

My 87 maxima had the same wheels, and yes they are originally made by Enkie. I remember seeing that.

Now the stock fuel hose is 5/16. Should i go up to 3/8 all the way back to the fuel pump? I am going to start tapping soon, and is there any recomendation on the size tap for the injetor hose holes? I know the actual line to the injector is 5/16 but should i use the same size hole or go larger?

i paid $17.31 incl tax for my 18" holley rail. Dunno yet how i am gonna make it work. The 36" (clearcoated raw aluminum) is around $25.

OK, here is a picture of Pallnet's fuel rail just as a visual for what i am saying. The fitting for the fuel hose on mine seems as though it will block the #1 injector. maybe i can just move # 1 and 6 injector hose fittings over just a bit and anlge them slightly so the wont kink going to the injector. I hope that clears it up a little better. Ryan