Poundz9oh9

Hey Mike KZ, You wouldn't happen to remember the push rod length that you used would ya?? I'm just curious becasue trickflow told me 8.350", the ones I pulled from the motor were 7 3/4", and I know that if the block or heads have been surfaced that makes a difference also. But I also know that it's a difference of thousandths and not over a 1/4 inch.

More pics guys of the most recent findings..... Note the gouges on the cylinder wall Leaking head gasket maybe.....?????? Ya think! Couple shots of the heads, note the closeup on the same combustion chamber that is matched to the previous mentioned cylinder Oh yeah, and it did have stock length pushrods in it also, good call guys.

Why don't you just use the stock linkage from an auto Z like mentioned in the JTR book? It matches up nicely to a stock console.

Thanks for the offer John, I'm pulling the heads again today and taking them to a local (45 minute drive) machine shop to get them checked today as they seem to have become a seperate issue. I'm still trying to work with the seller, but we're coming fast to a dead end. It doesn't seem like nobody will be happy until we're standing in a courtroom.

here ya go http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=search Oh, yeah, and Welcome !!

Hey Nick, you'll have a blast in Europe. Not that I can speak specifically about Spain, but I've been just about everywhere else over there. Best 3 years of my life, just don't run out of time before you enjoy it to the fullest. 1 Semester is a short time period. Make the most of it!!!

Thanks for the info Pat!

Well, I'm not going into details about the deal itself because I'm trying to make every effort to work with the seller, but what I can say now is that it wasn't cheap, and it was advertised as being a .020 bore as opposed to a .060 bore. I was always looking for the last glimmer of hope until I pulled the head and noticed it was .060. I can't even have that rebuilt. It's not a simple fix, it's not a hard fix........it's unfixable! On a side note, doesn anybody know what 8.350" convert to on a measuring tape????

Hey Mike, We're working it off of Hybridz. Although it doesn't seem like it's going to come to a satisfactory end on my part. I'll keep you posted. By the way, the motor was never ran in my possession. Hell, the car still needs a little more work.

Oh, and just to answer Johns question about the pistons and cylinders..... Well, the cylinder walls have a lip on the top of them, so the block would need to be bored up. On a side note. You guys gave a great diagnosis. Although I haven't measured the pushrod length I did call trick flow and they told me that for those heads the length is 8.350. Whatever that actually comes out to in inches????? While I was still looking for a glimmer of hope and pulled the lifters and cam. The lifters were concave on the ends (checked with straightedge), the front cam bearing was scored like the above pictured rod cap, and the cam lobes were irregularly worn. And then my favorite part ......the stamp on the piston says .060. So what does that mean????? I'll tell ya. It's bored to the max already and NOTHING can be done. Now correct me if I'm wrong... but an engine with this sort of wear would undoubtedly be noticed....if not by a knock or rattle, then by the crappy performance????

Thanks MIke, And trust me, I'm trying to make some lemonade also. But it could use a litter sugar though. Right now it's tasting awfully bitter ya know. The only thing with the cam info though, is that I can't seem to find any info in it either. Other than it's a "280 Comp Cam" as stated by the PO.

Well, I can accept the rust (I'm not THAT difficult) besides that can be flushed, but it seems to me that just by changing the oil and the performance of the engine would indicate that something was wrong. Am I right? So, basically, now I need - oil pump - oil pan - cam - main/rod bearings - crank polish or new crank (crank has already been gound 10/10) - custom length pushrods - head gaskets and other misc. pieces when the top is pulled And then worse case scenario, some block prep maybe even bored again if the cylinder walls are shot. And if that's the case I'd need - machine work - rings at a minimum (if not pistions AND rings) Am I forgetting anything guys?

So, what kind of life expectancy can I expect from this motor considering that whatever caused this has been running through the motor (Cam lobe maybe?) long enough to do this? I mean I can change all the bearings and stuff but for what? I can guarantee that there's more damage than what I've seen so far.

Thanks alot, you guys are great! I think I found most of the needed information on an internet search. Knowing the model really helped alot!!

Trickflow??? Oh, and where'd ya get that info from ???

Their supposed to be Trick Flow, but I don't know anything about them. I looked at the Trick Flow site and they looked nothing like anything I saw there. Any help is appreciated guys. The only #'s I can find on these things is "SN 3305" and either S94, S84 or 694 or something to that effect is stamped in them poorly. Reallllly hard to read. HElp me pleeeease!! I know nothing specific on these things, and If I need to get a short block I need some specifics. Thanks

Oh yeah, the pics were small because I used the thumbnail for the link , you can see the all the horrific details if you go the the recent additions page! [edit] nevermind, I fixed it

Fuc%%#^% $h%&* ..... Hey Mike, I took your advice.......... I'll let the pics speak for themselves. On, a hunch I pulled the oil pump and found this and this is the before mentioned water jacket This is absurd I can't believe this crap, all that $$$$ for this?? What now??

Thanks again for the help Mike. I'll continue my quest to identify the heads, because I know what cam is supposed to be in there, so that might give me a little more insight. If everything seems in order on the underside (pulling apart this week), then I guess I'll put it back together and see how it runs. On a side note, I just don't understand why somebody would invest a supposed $10,000 on this drivetrain just to let it go so far as to have sludge buildup in it. You'd think it would have been better taken care of it, or used better lubricants, ya know? Thanks again!

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll look a little more into it this week. Now for the second question I posed, is it possible to get 375-400 hp out of a motor with a stock valvetrain? The motor's supposedly bored 20 over with some unidentifyable heads (supposed to be trick flow). But like I said, everything under the valve covers looks completely stock, complete with solid rockers. Considering the factors I've stated. If this motor deal turns out to be a complete waste of money. What should my next step be......?? I paid good money (to a fellow and respected Hybridz member) for this motor to be used as an anchor for my not yet owned boat. What should I do........???

Hey guys, as some of you may know I was close to burning the project to the ground last week because of what I have found, time and time again. I can look the other way at replacing parts because I want to go a different route. But here I am replacing parts that should have been ok. Namely my oil pan. Ok......cracked in shipping, along with the trans pan and inspection cover. No biggie really just a little annoying. From the day I got this "375-400 hp" motor I have been surprised at what I've found. Brand new shiny chrome Edelborck valve covers and air cleaner (with brand new filter). Brand new spark plugs (never ran). All this stuff is nice to have but I find myself wondering why somebody would buy all these parts and put them on a motor just to sell. I would rather have had the old stuff on it so that I could gauge how the motor was running when it was pulled. I started to think what was the PO trying to hide? I pulled the pan today to get it ready to replace, and found abnormal amount of metal shavings in the pan (nothing huge, but quite a few little slivers), along with DARK black oil which also came with a complimentary tbsp or so full of sludge. Oh yeah, also had extremely rusty water in the jackets, almost like he was running straight water with no a/f. Those findings along with the hp claim makes begin to wonder what the actual performance level of this motor may be. I'm already disappointed at what I've found, but here are my questions. Just looking for 3rd/4th/5th etc..... opinions. Is what I've described typical of a 15,000mi motor?? Is 375-400hp achievable with a completely stock valvetrain?? (above not mentioned before, but still wondering) Just looking for some help with these issues, and advice as to what I should do next regarding this stuff. TIA I'll post some pics of my findings in a few days when I get my camera cable back from home (1.5 hrs away)

Good call guys!! After a little more consideration, I decided to do it where it lies. I'll just make use of the two floor jacks I have and put them under the motor mounts. That should add a little more stability. Anyway, wish me luck on the trial fit on Sunday. Bad pan and all

I just figured it'd be safer to put it on the stand as opposed to working on it dangling from a chain ya know?

Did I mention that I need to pull the tranny off of the motor so that I can get it on the engine stand to work on the bottom of the motor???

On my cars flaming shell. I'm serious, I'm getting ready to burn this thing to the ground. Everytime I turn around something goes wrong. I'm getting short on time so I figured I'd get a test fit in this weekend. Actually hoping to get the motor in for good. Anyway, I go to lift the friggin motor off of the pallet it was on (same as the on it was shipped on), and the go@#$mn oil pan has about a 1/2" gash in it!!!! Nothing seems to be going right on this thing. I could have been content and put it in with the supplied mounts (SCARAB style) and kept my expenses to a minimum, but noooo, I wanted JTR. So........I had to buy a harmonic balancer, a new alternator and mounting bracket, a new starter, a new fuel pump, transmission tailhousing and gearset and all the misc other little parts that came with the motor but can't use. I've got less than 30 days to get this car up and running. Now all my "trial fit" time is going to turn into "changing oil pan" time!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!