Poundz9oh9

One thing that hasn't been talked about that has a great effect on a dog is its "prey drive" Dogs have different prey drives for different objects. That is one of the determining factors for law enforcement agencies when selecting dogs for police work. I myself have a decently trained pit bull at home that's the most loving dog in the world................ to people (errr family), however he is extremely animal aggressive and I've had to break up a fight involving him and another neighbors dog (neighbors dog came into my back yard while I was there). Now just because he's seemingly friendly doesn't mean that I'm gonna tie him up in the back yard and leave him there because he IS animal aggressive, and who knows what that could turn to if left unattended. I know that no matter what I do, I can't contain him to the back yard unless he's tied up, which I totally disagree with. But that's part of being a responsible owner. Knowing your dog and what he's capable of. As far as the German Shephard is concerned. You have to look at the breed itself, what it's been bred for and what it's been doing for decades. The prey drive that goes along with their line of work effects how they see things. A running jogger, in this case Scotties wife was nothing more than another animal to chase and kill. It's instinct. Kevin, as far as your friends dad is concerned. That may work from time to time but I wouldn't bet my life on the dog running scared at being yelled at. Part of the way we train the dogs here for aggression is with aggressive movements and tones of voice, which would just agitate the dog even more. Either way, if you know what your doing you can fight back enough to where the dog will either A) pass out lose it's will to fight or C) Die. C, being the most likely course of action given the heat of the moment. And Mace????? Once a dog is in that predatory mode, it would take a stronger mace than what's available to the general public. Either way, it's still 100% owner responsibility!! Sorry about your wife Scottie, I hope she heals well. Ok, I'm off my soapbox.

Thanks alot Bob, exactly what I was looking for!!

My JTR manual is 2 hours away and I'm gonna head to the parts store and I can't remember the years for the chevy truck starter (168 tooth) off the top of my head. Can somebody who has their manual handy let me know? I think it's starter #3, but not sure.

ummmmm, am I missing something??? It looks like an Explorer to me

Ok, another question. Is the hammering required for the tranny, or basically to fit the crossmember in there?

Blah, thanks for the words of encouragement Mark.....lol

Although the second one looks nicely done and clean, I can't decide whether I like it or not.....

C'mon guys, I know somebody's done this ..........

yup....afraid I got busted too

OK, I took some measurements from the motor mount to the trans mount and ended up about where the arrows point to. My question, is any other areas needed to hammer for the 700r4 install. The circled area shows the only other area I found through searching that people are hammering to make room for trans cooling line access. My goal is to stick the motor on the first shot and stay away from a "trial" fit. Any suggestions/input??

At first I thought 'this is b.s., if I'm gonna go somewhere I'd rather be where the action is.........but then common sense kicked in and I thought...........I'll take Cuba, they're shooting real bullets in Iraq/Afgh. I don't think I'll have to worry about mistreating the prisoners, I shouldn't have TOOO much contact with them. I may even have an office job, but we'll see when I get there. Besides, I have a little more common sense than that. I'm trying to stay optimistic about the Z though. I just took that pic yesterday after some engine bay prep. Then all the should be left to paint engine bay, the initial (hopefully final) fit of the motor and tranny, and then to connect the wiring, oh and install all the autometer guages. I just hope I clearance the tunnel right. That should be the only issue for fitment. Thanks for the support guys!!!

Due at the end of September. Guantanamo Bay, just found out yesterday. So, given the current condition of the Z, I think it's about a 50/50 that I'll get to drive her with the swap done. What a pain in the a$%, just as I get close I'm leaving. I think the worst part is that IF I get it done in time, I'll only get to drive it for a week or so - weather permitting of course. Just venting my frustrations................

Thanks. So what does that wire do?? Is that the same one that connects to the back of the fusebox? Same color.......

I have a set listed on ebay. Are they it ?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50454&item=7917878132&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

When wiring the 1-wire alternator. What is done with the red/white wire that originally went to the Datsun alternator. I searched, but maybe I'm dumb. I didn't see a concrete answer. Do you run the single alternator wire through the Datsun red/white wire or go straight the battery with the alternator wire and do something else with the red/white wire??? Gettin close.....

Thanks for the help guys. I decided to bit the bullett and get the bowtie overdrives set. Thanks again.

Motor's set to go in next week ... ummm or the week after I don't have the steel hardlines for the transmission cooling lines (700R4). Has anybody used copper tubing for a substitue? It's easier to bend but will it do the job just as well? Is it a good idea or should I go the "the yard" looking for the steel stuff? TIA

Good call John, I think the 225-45-16 is what I'm gonna shoot for. Brad, I'm not really sure of the width of the wheel, the rims were on the car when I bought it and I've never really looked/measured them. I do like the way the car handles with the 205/45's, but I'll need the traction assistance in the rear with V8 swap.

OK, while thinking about the gearset I'll need for the tranny I came up with this question. I have 205-45-zr16 tires on the car and want to go to a 225 (at a minimum on the rear). If I'm not mistaken the stock tire diameter is 25", but the tires I have are 23". This changes things enough to where I'll need a completely different set of gears. My question is this...........Is the only advantage of having a taller sidewall the smoother ride? I wouldn't mind filling the gap a little with a taller tire, but should I stay with the shorter tires? Will the taller 225's fit under the fender as well? Either way I need to order a gearset, so I'm just trying to decide to get gears for the taller tire or just keep the tire height where it's at. Here's a pic (not a very good one though) just for reference. Lets assume the the car is at or very near the stock ride height also.

650 LS1 matches on the V8 Tech board alone. Search the archives and your guaranteed to have MOST of your questions answered.

It's not TOOOO far gone. A few hours work and the Rice could be gone. He wants too much for it, in its present condition.

Hey guys, found this after some extensive online searching. I'm looking for the JTR recommended Caprice tailhousing for the 700R4. This is the one I found for significantly less than the $200 bucks that JTR wants for it. It looks like it's what I'm looking for but it seems a little different from the one in the JTR book. Can anybody who knows firsthand compare this for me???? Update - This is the Caprice style tailshaft housing. And I got it for $60. Arrived today !!

Hey, Any reason imparticular why you went block/set-back plate/spacer on the drivers side and opposite on the passenger side. Did I miss something in the JTR book. I put mine on block/spacer/plate on both sides. Am I going to run into a problem when I go to mount it in the car?

SWEEEEEET, I ordered the right ones Oh, yeah. Are they any harder to notch (d-side per JTR) than the rubber ones?

CV axles - $79.99, + $75 core