beermanpete

Your car died when you removed the battery cable because the alternator was not able to "keep up" with the current demand and the voltage fell below a point that will keep the fuel injection and ignition systems operating correctly. This does not necessarily indicate a faulty alternator. If the engine were running at a higher RPM it may have stayed running because the alternator can put out more current when the RPM is higher (to a point). The battery supplies current when the alternator cannot and this keeps the voltage up and the car running.

Sorry for the late reply. We first noticed the oil pressure drop when we started using the Falken Azenus RT615K which has a tread wear rating of 200. With "regular" tires we never noticed a problem. With any of the the Comp-R tires the problem is more severe.

Yes, the oil moves away from the pick-up when cornering. We have managed to get by with an extra half-quart of of so of oil beyond the full line on the dip stick.

Yes, the brake booster.

The MasterVac is likely leaking when you press the brake and causing a vacuum leak.

No mention of the total intake runner length. The triples likely have a longer intake length. If so, it might tune the intake resonance to a lower RPM and broaden the power band.

I am still here but don't post much lately. Facebook? Instagram? What are those?

If you use a fitting on the carb or manifold you need the PCV, otherwise you will create a massive vacuum leak. I agree with Chickenman, replace the PCV. Do not simply block the crankcase block vent. If you do not reinstall a PCV you should run a hose down under the engine and positon the end to be in the air flow while driving and cut an angle on the back side so the front is the low edge. This will cause a draft to pull air in through the cracnkcase, entering at the vent on the valve cover and exiting at the tube below the engine. This will take water vapor and other gasses out of the crankcase. This is called a road draft tube and was common prior the adoptio of the PVC system in the mid-sixties.

That looks the same as my '73.

I don't get the use of the loops in the vent line. It seems that will cause problem by blocking the line with liquid fuel that collects in the low points. We ran a line from the tank to a tee at the fuel filler and then from the tee up above the filler and back down to the outside of the car. I have seem evidence it drips a little when coming off the track if the tank was full at beginning of the session. Other than this it works great.

If you are continually getting air and it never purges there is an air leak somewhere. Does the brake pedal pump up at all? If so, pump it up and hold it down whith pressure in the line and see it if sinks slowly. This indicates a leak. Next, inspect the enitre brake system for leaks at each joint and compoment. If there are no fluid leaks the master is bad. As mentioned, caliper mounting with caliper swaps sometimes leads to an arrangement that requires taking the calipers off and holding them with the bleered at the top to properly bleed them. Also, on occassion the left and right calipers get installed on the oppsosite side which places the bleeders at the bottom causing air to get trapped in the calipers.

I don't remember what the return line looks like inside the tank. The return line is smaller than the supply line and may not support enough flow for sustained full throttle operation. Greg's car is a is a '78 (or the tank is at least) and is therefore different than ours. The photos on Blue's website show the sender port on the top of thank where ours is on the front. The sender itself and the lock ring look the same so the technique should work. Position the free end of the pick-up near the baffle and bend the end so it is parallel with the floor of the tank and touching the floor or very close at least to it at least.

On our '73 the pickup tube in the tank cracked or rusted through and caused fuel starvation even while the tank was mostly full. Our solution was to abandon the original pickup and install a new one through the fuel gauge sending unit port using a home made plate and an AN style bulkhead fitting. The plate is the same size as the sending unit and works with the original lock-ring and o-ring. The free end of the new pickup tube is located near the internal baffle and works well. Obviously, this eliminated the fuel gauge.

Sure. I did a minimal rewire on our car for track use. What is your intended use for the car?