beermanpete

I would replace the fuel pump with a suitable low pressure electric pump. The RX7 pump is popular for use on the Z with SU carbs but I do not know the cost. If you get the correct pump you will not need a regulator. Try to get the OE fuel rail with the carb set. It has the fuel return line with the correct metering orifice.

The DGV set up is not a performance improvement compared to the SU/Hitachi side draft carbs. At best it is a wash. The venturi area of the DGV is the same as the SU. That being said, the DGV is a decent carb and when properly tuned will run fine. The sound will be different than the SU I suppose but who knows which you will like better. For the price of those particular DGVs you could likley get SU set-up in usable condition.

The exhaust I have which I believe to be factory look very similar to yours.

We pulled the engine and trans from 2 cars today. A 260Z and a 280Z. Getting the 280Z set up for track use little by little.

Cache?

Use the Alfa Romeo transaxle from a Milano and you get inboard disc brakes to boot.

That has been my experience so far. The car had 2 drivers both days at the last event so it got about 8 hours of total track time and the pads barely changed thickness and the brake fluid level barely dropped. We have yet to replace a rotor in the front after 4 years of race track use. At the rear we only have 2 events on the disk brake conversion but it seems to be holding up very well.

If your car still has the original final drive ratio (3.545:1) you could use a 4-speed. They are much cheaper. You should be able to find good 4-speed for $50.00.

We are getting good results using the Raybestos ST-43 pads in front with stock calipers and rotors. They will survive operating temps that melt the Porterfield R4 pads. We are using ATE Super Blue brake fluid. The brake fluid did boil once when we were still using the rear drums and Porterfield pads in front. We gave up on the rear drum brakes and converted to disk. With the drum brakes we could not get them to contribute significantly to the braking which caused the fronts to overheat. Now that the rear brakes are working the fronts runs much cooler. At the last event (time trial) the brakes barely got hot enough to stop squealing (front and rear). With the Raybestos pad in front and Porterfield R4 pads in the rear the pad wear is minimal. We had 2 drivers all weekend and the pads barely look worn.

We ran into the same issue when we went to an electric fan. The studs have a section without any thread that is longer than the thickness of the pulley hub. The nuts won't tighten down to the pulley without a ridiculous amount of washers to take up the space.

The fuse appears to be a repair for the fusible link and is not directly related to the regulator / charging system. All the wiring diagrams I have show 6 wires in the connector for the regulator. What year is your car? How do you know your alternator is the internally regulated type? To answer your question in your first post: The lights should get brighter when you rev the motor. To test for proper charging measure the voltage at the battery when the engine is running. At idle it will be about 13 volts. When you rev the motor is should rise to about 14.5 to 15.0 volts and not go any higher.

M6 x 1.0.

No lock nut. It seems to have interference designed into the thread fit. Why the engineer did not provide 2 sets of wrench flats is beyond me though.

The 76 280Z has electronic ignition and therefor does not have a condensor, at least not for the same reason breaker point ingitions do. The part you are refering to is most likely a capacitor to suppress noise that interfers with radio reception. The car should run fine without it. You wires are getting hot for a different reason. Which wires are getting hot? A condensor is an old timey name for a capcitor. A good capacitor will not have any continuity when tested for DC continuity. Use an ohmeter on a high range to test the capacitor for resitance. I should measure infinity. It should also take moment for the reading to stabilize while the reading ramps from a low reading to a high reading. Since you have just repainted your engine compartment perhaps you now have paint on a point where a ground lug is connected to the car body. Paint will act as an insulator and can cause a bad connection. Make sure to remove the paint under all ground lugs or terminals.

The TO bearing could shift I suppose. However, the hydraulics should take up the free play in response so it should only cause a momentariy change in pedal feel or clutch action. A healty clutch should have enough holding power to reengage without lifting the throttle, at least that has been my experience. Where did you put the coupler and rod?

There is a difference between full disengagement for starting, stopping, shifting, etc. and partial disengagement that allows the clutch to slip a little bit. Your test at full throttle does not tell us the clutch is fully releasing, only that it released enough to allow the power of the engine to cause slipping. Based on what you have said so far it seems the hydraulics are working correctly. Check the free play at the pedal and the pedal height. I know these should not change but perhaps the lock nut is loose and it change or it is off a bit and the clutch "settled in" a bit and is now not getting enough travel to fully release. Once you eliminate the hydraulics, free play, and pedal stroke the only thing left is the clutch itself. If you cannot find a problem with the release system you have to remove the clutch for inspection.

Don'f forget to chrome some of the parts. That always makes it go.

The marks on on the outside of the cam bearing housing. The actual bearing surface is inside the bore and cannot be seen without removing the cam. It is not too likely a problem. You could take the valve cover off and inspect it more closely if you feel the need.

That looks like the oil slinger. It goes behind the timing cover. It will run without it but could leak oil more easily.

Yes, the engine needs to be at TDC for the #1 cylinder when installing the oil pump. The info on the decal on the hood is for tune-ups and emissions compliance. And yes, the harmonic balancer can fail and slip, causing the timing marks to be in the wrong place. You should find TDC by other means than the factory timing marks to determine if your balancer is good or not.

Why not take your current rotor to an auto parts store and match it up?

The poly bushings for the steering rack are VERY tight. We had to soak them in hot water in an attempt to make them softer. We also used longer screws (that hold the rack down) to get the brackets on. After the brakets are pulled down into the bushings you can exchange the long screws for the correct screws one at a time.

It sounds like the clutch master has gone bad.

Perhaps the float valves are stuck open. Check the floats and float valves for proper operation.

If you cannot find the screws at a local hardware store try McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#