beermanpete

I have a 260Z with the same leak. I have not made any attempt to fix mine yet but I think the motor needs to pulled to fix it. Perhaps it could be done by pulling the trans. There might be enough room in the trans tunnel to change it.

The STi diff will work with the R180 mustache bar (in the cars that come with the R180.) I don't know about cars that came with the R200. The STi diff requires the Beta Motorsports side axles. The Datsun side axles will not work. Yes, you can (and need to) move the companion flange from the Datsun R180 to the STi R180.

The B wire is the fusible link itself. It is a black wire about 3" long with a ring terminal on one end to connect to the stud on the starter and a spade terminal on the other end to connect to the 10g white wire that feeds the whole car. Since you are taking power directly from the battery to your terminal board to feed the car you do not need the fusible link at the starter.

The bubble flare won't work. The auto part stores should have pre-made lines with the metric fittings and inverse double flare ready to go. They do here in Los Angeles anyhow. O'Reilly has an 8" long line that has the correct ends and flare available from their website: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AGS1/PAJ308/N0834.oap?ck=Search_brake+line_N0834_-1_2666&keyword=brake+line&pt=N0834&ppt=C0066 If you cannot easily get lines with the correct flare you can buy bulk line and flare the ends your self re-using the old fittings. Another option is to buy a pre-made length just for the tubing and cut the ends off and then flare it your self. The proportioning valve does not needs any attention. Simply bleed the brakes when you are finished installing the new lines.

That worked.

It requires permission to see the file. Perhaps you can change a setting to make it public?

The side axles do "plug in" like the Nissan but the spline size is differnt, at least compared to the R180 from the S30. The Betamotorsports side axle allows installation of the Subaru LSD into the S30 and retains the original S30 drive axles that use u-joints. For the S31 you will likely need differnt side axles, or to fabricate an adapter to connect the S31 CV joint to the Subaru side axle. Search around here in HybridZ, if it has been done you will likely find a thread about it. At minimum you will find lots of info about the subject of the drive axles and CV joints that will provide conceptual information so you can determine what the issues are and get leads to shops that can provide parts and services you might need.

If the carb has enough value take it to a machine shop and ask them to look at it. Some shops use LASER or wire EDM to remove broken screws, taps, etc. and can do amazing recoveries.

It sounds like you need a larger alternator. The system voltage is dropping due to the additional load from your fans. Measure the voltage at the battery with and without the fans running, at idle and with the engine at about 2500 RPM. With the fans running the voltage will likely drop a little at idle but should be the same at 2500 RPM (as without the fans).

That's what my cat said.

We got the engine running on Saturday. Yeah!! Now to finish the read disk brake conversion and then to the muffler shop. Almost done!

ARP lists a head stud kit. Part number 202-4206. http://arp-bolts.com/

We finally got the engine back in. After a few mis-steps over the last few weeks we got it in. The intake/exhaust still need to be installed and the alt. and misc. wiring and it should start. With some luck we should have it ready for the Alfa Romeo Club (AROSC) time trial and race at The Streets of Willow in November.

It is most likely the tach, especially if the car is running well.

I think the 280Z uses the original sending unit to send a signal to the fuel system. You might need to use a T-fitting so you can install the original sending unit and the accessory gauge at the same time.

The CA DMV will only know if you "owned" the car if the previous owner submitted the release of liability form o rif you started some activity at the DMV related to this car. As for selling the car to the scrap metal guy, I doubt it will ever be an issue. The car was likely cut into pieces and sold for scrap value. Even if someone ends up trying to register the car the only reason you would be involved is if the new owner wants to title the car AND you are in the DMV file as an owner of the car.

We used this slide hammer from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piece-heavy-duty-slide-hammer-kit-5223.html It worked but took a lot of pounding. By the time we got the axles out the hammer and shaft was badly mushroomed where they make contact and the center of the adapter was cracked.

Yes, a vacuum leak will cause a lean idle condition. You definitely want to find and fix any vacuum leaks before chasing after the jetting.

No, an idle of 1500 RPM is not normal. There is no reason the Holley cannot be made to work well and run and idle normally. It sounds like the idle circuit might be very lean for some reason. Check the idle circuit for blocked jets and such. If this is not the problem you might need to use bigger idle jets.

There are 2 theaded holes in the balancer that are used to remove the balancer. You need a puller tool like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html Some of the Zs have an accessory pulley screwed to the balancer which uses the same theaded holes needed to remove the balance. If so, remove the 2 screws and the pulley. Then you will be able to remove the balancer. As Zmanco asked, why are you removing the balancer to R&R the head?

I use a '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee with an in-line 6 cyl. and it pulls the Z just fine (no trailer). I have gone over the Grapevine on I5 and had to slow down and use 2nd gear on the southbound leg (steeper than the northbound leg) but it never overheated or anything bad.

The fluid squirting out is normal. All the cars I have bled brakes on do it. Leave the filter basket in place or put the cap on while bleeding and it will be fine.

The rear wheel bearings require removal to service. To remove the bearings you need to remove the stub axle. This is not difficult per se but it is not the same as the front wheel bearings. The nut holding the rear axle in is peened down to prevent loosing (later models use a Nylock self-locking nut). To remove the nut you have to grind off or lift the peened section (interestingly, the service manual appears to caution against this). If you do not do this the threads on the axle could be damaged. Once the nut is off the axle is pulled out using a slide-hammer tool. The factory service manual show the procedure reasonably well. Look at page RA-8 and RA-9.

Cage free!!

Cool. Glad you got it to work.