beermanpete

The fuse for the regulator also powers the turn signal, reverse lights, and meters (not the tach). Make sure these curcuits are working properly. The field winding current is supplied through this fuse. Perhpas the field current is too high. Measure the resistance of the field coil. It should be about 2 ohms. 15 volts is actually ok. The spec in the manual allows from 14.3 to 15.3 volts at 68 degrees F.

Oops is right. A Come-Along would have been the solution but we don't have one. We will shortly. Fortunatley, there does not seem to be too much damage to the car. The valance took the main hit. It is now a somewhat A shape on the passenger side.

For short bursts the tank supplies the air, not the pump. Use 1/2" hose to get the air flow rate up if you need more power. If you really need power get a 2 stage pump and run the impact with 150 PSI. Single stage compressors only pump up to about 100 PSI.

If you file the adapter plate you should remove the gears, shafts, and bearings first to prevent getting metal ships in them that you cannot clean out later.

It looks like the inside of ours which is a clutch type. If I remember correctly, the 3.54 units are the clutch type and the Torsen units have a 3:90 ratio.

I got one from drivetrain.com. Have you tried a Nissan dealer?

Perhaps the distributor rotor is not fully seated and is touching the inside of the cap. Check for wear marks at the rotor tip and the inside of the cap near the electrodes.

If you do not have a PCV valve it is normal. If you have a PCV valve (and it is working correctly) you could have worn rings.

Correct, front screw hole. The rear screw hole is blind.

If cost is a significant factor, rebuild the SUs.

If the can clutch is locked up it will make the fan noisy. You should be able to move the fan easily by hand.

The float bowl drying out will not cause a problem. As soon as you try to start the car the fuel pump will refill it. The gasket thickness will affect the float level but not enough to cause a problem. NewZed's comments are correct. Make sure the screw is only long enough to have about 1/4" to 1/2" of threads exposed past the housing. Make sure there is no water in the distributor. Any moisture in there will condense on the inside of the cap and short out the spark to the plugs. Been there, done that.

You need a ground connection. Connect the main battery cable to the engine at the starter and 10 gauge wire to the body on the firewall. Instead of a fuse, use a lightbulb on the positive side. A typical 55/60W headlamp will work. Wire the healamp in series with the positive battery terminal. If you have a short the bulb will light at full brightness and limit the current to about 5 amps. If everything is working correctly the headlamp will not light or be very dim and the tail lights will light at normal brightness (more or less). When you are confident the wiring is good remove the bulb and wire up directly.

If you place it near the fuel gauge sender you should be able to reach the nut through the opening.

IT looks correct to me. The spring in the upper fork is broken BTW.

Bent shift fork? You should take it further apart and inspect everything.

The guy without an air compressor, of course.

Isn't that the self-leveling design?

Cool. Good to hear that you got it to run right. The screw you asked about looks like it was for the point gap adjustment. If so, you can remove it. You will need to take the breaker plate out to get to the other side and look at what holds it in.

Positive wires. The low/high beams are switch on the ground side.

Low vacuum on 5 and 6 could be a vacuum leak. Is the header red on all cylinders or only one or two?

Good to hear you got it to run finally.

Yes, a single large fuse or fusible link is a good idea. In the original wiring the main circuit feed connects to the starter terminal through a fusible link.

The tach on the early Zs is connected to the positive side of the ignition. The black/white wire runs through the tach. If you are using points type ignition with your 350 it should work. Connect the black/white wire to the positive side of the coil. The RPM will be off due to the 8 cyl. vs 6 cyl. There is a calibration adjustment on the back of the tach that should have enough range to allow your to calibrate the tach properly. If you are using electronic ignition it might not work in which case you will need to get an aftermarket tach.

It sounds like it might be running rich and loading up when cruising at low RPM. Do the suction pistons move freely? If you bent the one of the jet needles it could be rubbing on the jet and binding. Lift the suctions pistons and make sure they both drop freely, drop at the same rate, hitting the bottom firmly at the same time. Make sure the nozzles both move freely when you operate the choke and return to the fully seated position when you turn the choke off.