beermanpete

You should be able to buy a single sping from any Tokico dealer. The upper bearing allows the steering to turn easily without trying to wind up the spring.

You should up-size you fuel pick-up line to 3/8" if you are planning to make more power than stock. Keep in mind the fuel pick-up is on the suction side of the pump which makes it more sensitive to restriction issues since you cannot overcome the restriction with more pressure like you can on the engine side of the pump. Any good welding shop should be able to replace the original fuel pick-up with a 3/8" line. Copy the shape and length of the original.

Are you experiencing any fuel starvation problems? If not, then no, you don't "need" to change the fuel line size.

We finally removed the pressure differential warning switch and replaced it with a tee. No improvment. So we decided the master cylinder might be the problem and replaced it. Still no good. Having eleminated the hydraulics from the list of possibilities we decided to go back to basics and look closer at the pads and shoes. All bad. Not worn out but badly overheated and glazed over. We replaced them and much to my chagrin the brakes work great now. I have never experienced bad linings cause such a change in pedal effort. It was as if the brakes were heat faded all the time even when cold.

I am sure it could be a different size but I check 2 that I have and both are 1/4-20. Perhaps the threads on your are filled with dirt or something like that. Try (carefully) cleaning the threads with a tap.

This type of puller could damage the pulley flange or separate the outer ring from the hub. This type is better for this job, and cheaper too. http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html

If you mean the small screws in the damper/pulley hub, they are (surpisingly) 1/4-20.

I would try drilling it with a drill smaller than the pin. It will likely grab the pin and try to turn it as some point during the drilling. You might be able to pull it out with the drill at that point. If the drill does not pull it out you can try to thread in a small sheet metal screw and pull it with the screw.

I learned the hard way, you must remove a small pin that goes in from the side. I don't remember the exact location but the attached image should get you close enough to find it.

It sounds way too lean. Check the fuel filter (if you have not already replaced it), float level, the condition of the fuel hoses connecting the float bowls to the carbs, and the filter screens built into the top plate of the float bowls.

No, you do not need the balance tube. Its primary function is to provide a smooth vacuum source for the Master-Vac, PVC, and other vacuum powered devices. The Master-Vac does affect the idle a bit. In some cars the idle speed increases slightly while pumping the brakes. This might be more pronounced if it is only connected to one carb. I doubt it will actually be a problem when driving.

If the bell housing has suitable access you can turn the engine by the flex plate. There are tools designed to grab the teeth on the ring gear for holding and turning the engine. I don't know if it is strong enough to do what you cannot do with the balancer bolt. If you can't turn the engine without worrying that you will damage that big screw the engine is rusted badly enough that even of you got it to run it will have no rings in about 10 seconds.

It should work fine. I don't know if there is a perfomance benifit by using (or not). What about the throttle linkage? It is part of the balance tube.

Yeah, I wasn't figuring on that either. I was figuring on a stockish filter and using the cowl for a cold air intake that is slightly pressurized at high road speeds.

It sounds interesting. I have thought about doing this as well but never got around to it. You might need to have a method to separate water from the air flow if you drive in a lot of rain.

The rod ends are available from a variety of sources. Here are 2: http://www.fkrodends.com/ http://www.mcmaster.com/

You can buy a tool designed to straighten tubing. Here is an example: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80082/10002/-1?CT=999 Otherwise straighten it by hand being carefull not to kink it I guess.

The bolt circle diameter is wrong. You would need to use an adapter with these wheels.

It sounds like the clutch is dragging. Is your difficulty going into first gear only when stopped? If so, check the clutch master cylinder for correct fluid level. If the fluid is ok then you might need bleed the clutch system or possibly replace (or rebuild) the master and slave cylinders.

Looks good, but aren't the washers for the TC rod bushings supposed to go the other way?

No problem as long as the length is reasonable. The original battery cables are 4 gauge (smaller) so you should be fine.

Clean and inspect the combination switch.

Are you using the bolt, nut and other hardware provided with the new bushings? The poly bushings won't work with the stock link.

The brake line fittings are M10x1.0. The residual check valve is in the master cylinder. Take of the adapter fitting that the brake line attaches to. You should be able to remove the internal parts in there and put the adapter fitting back on to eleminate the residual pressure function.

The only reason I can think of for reataining the spark advance is for starting. I have considered fixing mine as well. On the race track the RPM is high enough the advance is always all-in. A crank triggered system would end the problem but some race group rules prohibit them.