beermanpete

No safe;y.

Make sure to leave the spark plugs out and crank the engine push out the oil from the cylinders. If there is too much oil in the cylinders when you try to start it it could hydraulic lock a cylinder and bed a rod. Also, Marvel Mystery Oil is thin and some of it will run past the rings into the crankcase so make sure to change the oil right away.

The fusible link is not hard to change. The 240Z only has 1 fusible link (from the factory). If it is bad nothing will work. No lights, no horn, won't crank, nothing. In an earlier post you said it cranks. If so, the fusible link is good.

I agree, it looks like a cruise control servo. There would have been a control switch for it. I have seen a few aftermarket cruise controls that add a control unit to the turn signal switch stalk. Look for some sort of speed sensor near the front of the drive shaft. A magnet or two attached to the drive shaft 180 degrees and a pick-up coil mounted near it just behind the front u-joint.

If it cranks the starter is good and the battery is likely to be good. After sitting for a while it could be bad gas or some other fuel related problem. For the price I would try to check the compression. If it has good compression you should be able to get it running without to much work. Also, try starting with ether. If will run for a minute on ether you will know it has spark at least, and you will get an opportunity to listen for any major noises.

Difficult to say based on your description. Does the engine crank at all?

It might not be caused by the carbs. If you are going to take the whole car to a shop, ok. Don't take the carbs off and send them to a shop separately. Your symptoms suggest a lean idle condition that has been compensated for by turning the idle screw in too far in an attempt to get an idle. I would start by verifying all the basic settings and adjustments: Ignition timing set to stock Idle mixture screws at a base setting Idle speed screws at a minimal setting Valve clearance Make sure the throttle linkage moves freely and allows the throttle to close fully and easily. If it still acts the same disconnect all the vacuum hoses and plug their ports. If it is still the same check for vacuum leaks around the carb base gaskets, adapter to manifold gaskets, and manifold to head gasket. Check all fasteners for tightness, look for obvious problems such as missing or damaged gaskets. Next, run the engine and (with a helper if needed) spray carb cleaner around each joint. A leak will be detected by an obvious change in the way the engine runs. Typically, the engine will run better for a moment when you spray at a leak.

I concur, vacuum leaks. Also, in your photos (in the old thread) it looks like you might have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum rather that ported vacuum. If this is the case you will have too much advance at idle which will cause high idle. We just got a 260Z with the same DGV set-up and the vacuum advance connects to the forward vacuum port on front manifold, just behind the carb. The hose you asked about in the this pic http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad236/raukorist77/6fdb957a.jpg probably went to the air filter. It is likely the air inlet to the sir pump. You could put a little filter in it like the one on your valve cover. Connect it with a tee fitting to the gold port you asked about, which also should go to the air filter.

If it is a manual transmission put it in high gear and push the car to see if it will move.

Not true. There is a small opening connecting the master cylinder to the reservoir. When you press the brake pedal and the piston starts moving it pushes a bit of fluid through this opening into the reservoir. After the piston has moved far enough to go past the opening it closes the opening and begins applying pressure to the brake calipers. The opening is small enough that the fluid moves with enough velocity to cause a little stream of fluid to squirt out the top. In the Z there is suppose to be a filter screen in the reservoir that diffuses the stream so you don't see the squirt. In all the older American cars I have worked on (that don't have the filter) I always had to keep the lid on the master when bleeding the brakes to prevent the brake fluid from squirting out of the master and making a mess and ruining the paint.

The transmission model is FS5W71B. You can get parts at drivetrain.com, any Nissan dealer, and a host of other places. Edit: Corrected transmission model number.

Yes, it is normal to get a resistance reading from the yellow wire to both the positive and negative terminals. The red and blue wires go to ground through the dimmer control for the meter lamps. These should not cause any problem with the charging system. Make sure the alternator has a good ground connection to the regulator (E terminal, black wire). Check the voltage at the F terminal. It should be close to battery voltage when the key is on but the engine is stopped. When the engine is running the voltage at the F terminal should fall somewhat as you speed up the engine. No or low voltage here indicates a bad regulator or a bad connection in the A terminal (white wire) between the alternator and regulator.

Yes, this is normal. The filter screen is missing which prevents the fluid from squirting out like that. Your other reservoir probably still has the filter screen in place.

The 1972 Datsun service manual specifies to "use Mobile SAE 10W-30 for damper oil. Do not use SAE #30 or higher weight oils."

Have you checked the voltage at the output terminal on the alternator? Perhaps the alternator is working but the output wire has been unhooked under the dash when you installed the radio. The wiring various with year. What year is your car?

I use 10W30. I am not sure the amount in volume required but there are marks on the damper that you remove to add the oil. It is easy to overfill so add oil with an eyedropper or similar method that is easy to control. I dip a long, thin screwdriver blade into the oil bottle and then move it quickly to the opening in the carb, letting it drip off into the carb.

Cool. Glad to help. Let us know how it works out.

The N terminal is a center-tap in the stator and should be at about half the system voltage, so 8.3 volts is a bit high. The regulator will not provide voltage to the N terminal. The in-car test for the alternator is to full-field it and see if the system voltage rises. To do this remove the 2-pin connector from the alternator and connect the F terminal from the alternator to the battery. This will force the alternator to produce maximum output and the voltage should rise to as you speed up the engine. Be carefully not to race the engine because the voltage can easily go to 17 or 18 volt. If the voltage does rise as indicated the regulator is bad or there is a wiring fault. If not, the alternator is bad. Check the IG terminal (Black/white wire) going to the regulator, for voltage. It should be +12 when the ignition key is on and go to 0 when the ignition key is off.

We went to Pick-Your-Part in Sun Valley, CA last Sunday. No S30s. There were 2 Z31s. Both were fairly complete. The body parts looked pretty good. We took the rear brake rotors from 1 of them.

A fresh engine will generally have more oil pressure than a worn engine. That being said, 90 PSI does seem a bit high. You should verify the pressure with a differnt pressure gauge (not an OE type). If the ITM pump is a generic OE replacement part the pressure should be the same as stock, about 60 PSI. I cannot say that the high pressure will or will not cause any damage but I reccomend verifying the oil pressure before running the engine much, especially at high RPM.

Running a separate wire to the battery is not necessary and is not really desirable as it will add additional voltage drop. It will also leave a bad connection somewhere in your wiring harness that cause additional problems later. Trace the wire from the alternator and look for dirty, corroded, or damaged connections, cut wires, overheated wires, etc. You will need to unwrap the wiring harness to do this thoroughly.

If the engine won't run with the headlights on the alternator is not working. Check the alternator output.

Will the car start and run now? After sitting for a week the fuel should have dried out now and it should start again if the plugs are not fouled. It still seems like you might have a leaking float valve. Did you check them after the poor running and rich condiiton returned?

I don't see any oil on the plug. If it is wet it from gasoline. What do the plugs smell like?

Perhaps the LSD locked while you were turning and caused the inside tire to hop a bit.