beermanpete

The splitter is primarily an electrical switch for the warning light. Its only other function is a tee-block for the front brake line to go to the right front wheel. If you do not need/want the warning light function you can replace it with a small tee-block for the front brakes only. Since you have changed the front brakes you should replace the stock proportioning valve with an adjustable type. The Wilwood part mentioned above is nice as it includes the tee-block. If you retain the splitter you can use this proportioning valve: http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8419

Cool! I have been wondering if this was possible. Thanks for sharing.

Another item to check is the throwout bearing collar. The length of the of the collar must match the pressure plate height. If you changed the pressure plate it could be from a different year and needs longer collar.

In addition to the diameter, check the length. It the shank is too long the nut will bottom out on the hub before the shoulder is tight against the wheel.

Another endorsement for Firefox.

It looks pretty good to me. Clean the outside and see if it is rusted under the dirt. I had a tank cleaned and repainted at a radiator shop about eight years ago for about $100. No sealer inside, just cleaned to remove rust. I am not a fan of coatings as they can flake off and cause more problems than they are trying to solve.

I have been thinking about transmission gearing as well. What are the options for mixing and matching the OE parts between variants of the 71B? Is it possible to move the input gear set from one year 71B to another year 71B to chagne the spread? What about 5th gear? What about mixing parts from 4-speeds and 5-speeds? Since the counter shaft is a single part incorporating all 3 low gears, has anyone made a new shaft the allows using gears from a 3rd partry like Jerico?

Check the fuse box. The fuse for the marker/tail lights tends to run hot and the contacts go bad as a result.

Don't skimp on these bolts. A failure could cause serious damage.These bolts are high grade and have a specific shoulder size and head size. You are not going to find them at the local hardware store or on-line from a hardware "specialist". If you want to try to save a few bucks perhaps you can find some used OE parts at a salvage yard that are in decent condition or on e-bay. At least they will fit correctly even if you are not certain about their service history.

Nissan still sells them. Try the dealer.

I think it is due to a larger scrub radius. Forces generated at the tire tread have a longer lever with a larger scrub radius. The scrub force acts on the steering axis, trying to steere the car.

The green wire feeds into the charging system. Perhaps the alternator or regulator is bad, or the wire is damaged were if passes through the firewall and is grouned.

From what you said it seems very likely the starter is bad. About the only thing more you can do is measure the voltage at the starter to make sure the connections are good. Connect a voltmeter across the starter, meaning the black lead on the starter housing (ground) and the red lead on the lower large lug on the solenoid (not the one with the battery cable attached). When everyrthing is off the voltage should be 0. When cranking the voltage should be about 9 or 10 depending on the condition of the battery. If the voltage is 12 when trying to crank but the starter is not turning the starter is bad. If the voltage falls to 0 or perhaps 1 or 2 volts but the starter does not turn you probably have a bad battery or a bad connection or bad cable.

Paul is still involved but has not brought out the Dunestang for several years. He is helping with the administrative stuff and is one of the instructors for the driving school. I have not seen him drive for a while.

No reference to tire size. The barrel section of the wheel needs to be at least 12-1/2" inside. We use 14" cast wheels that fit so it seems like a 13" stamped steel wheel might work since the wall thickness is less than a cast wheel. You need to get a wheel as test fit it to the car. This is the only wy to know for sure. You need to talk with a wheel manufacturer. They can help you with the measurement process and provide the required cleareance for their wheels.

I had the Z out to the race track last weekend. Here is some video of the action.

It looks like the stock front brakes are about 6" from the center of the axle, so the wheel needs at least a 12" inside diameter.

Yes, but slotted and/or drilled rotors are not necessary and are more likely to crack.

The stock brakes are fine for your intended use. Repair or replace the calipers and rotors as needed with OE grade parts. Use performance oriented pads such as Hawk or Porterfield. if you still have drum brakes in the rear Porterfield has performance brake shoes as well.

We run 225/50-15 tires on 15x7 without any rubbing with stock fenders and the Tokico springs on a '73. It requires the correct offset wheel. If your tires are rubbing on the fenders the solution is different wheels.

Fun race with a lot of Z footage.

I was wondering why I could not get on last night. Thanks for all your hard work running this excellent site.

73 mm

The Falken ZE912 in 225/50-15 has a tread wear rating of 360. Not much less that 400 but a bit alt least.

Early 280ZX.