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Jared

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Everything posted by Jared

  1. I may need one, but I have to get the engine mounts made first so I can measure my distances.
  2. I'm not sure how many pulses per revolution that the stock sensors output. I will take a look and see if we have one in stock that I can look at. Also, I'm not sure if tying them together would work. The Z33 has different sized wheels front to rear stock and compensates for that, so bare minimum you would need one front and one rear. I don't think the ABS control unit requires the hydraulic section to function. Even though they aren't available seperately, you can unbolt the control unit from the hydraulic section. No fluid exists between the two, the hyraulic section is self contained and the electromagnets in the actuator/electrical side move the valves in the hydralic side. This would need a little more work than just guessing though. If you were to continually get enough minor wheel speed differences to very frequently actuate the abs unit, eventually it will burn out the control unit and shut down.
  3. I agree, much easier to just run a hall sensor off one of the axles, the driveshaft or something. To pull off the stock cluster, you would need the abs control unit from the 350Z(which also includes the hydraulics), the front and rear sensors, the front wheel bearings(because they included the sensor rings), and the rear axles.
  4. How did you mount the Griffin radiator? Did you weld on tabs or does it come with a mounting kit?
  5. Performed the IAVL with a Consult2 before replacing anything. Good possibility that got messed with during the low voltage condition. The IAVL normally takes care of these things.
  6. have you scoped the pattern on those two injectors to see if the pattern/pulse width is the same to other cylinders? you said compression is fine, did you do a leak down test? rechecked valve lash?
  7. The VH and VK holes are not the same, not any of them, plus the VK56 has the starter in the valley which adds another complication.
  8. have any of you seen/used this one? http://vqswap.com/_wsn/page3.html
  9. is the engine actually spinning the distributor?
  10. so many common items to check. vacuum leaks, corrosion in maf, tps, and injector connectors, clean the maf electronics, dirty fuel injectors.
  11. That's a great thread. Does anyone know if the spline count from 280zx to 240sz r200 nonlsd is the same? i.e. would a quaife from an r200 s13 fit an s130 s200 with no other mods?
  12. the blower is turned on by a switched timer. you need to get a wiring diagram and track it down.
  13. has anyone had the hoses crack under the dash and not in the engine bay?
  14. My 83 S130. Runs well, engine and trans will be for sale soon when I do the swap. Fixed all the broken/inop stuff after I bought it. Did a big cleaning. Tinted the windows. Just replaced all the rubber on the bottom, new wheels and tires 16x8 with 205/50r16 and 255/45r16. ST swaybar kit. H4 headlamp conversion. Tokico struts and springs.
  15. Here in FL, I'm glad the fan is there for some of the hot soak conditions that the car sees. I believe most of the issue is that the fuel sits on top of the injector rather than circulating like most modern top feed systems. I'm sure if you converted it to a real top feed(if there is such a rail and injector/oring combo) that the fan would never be needed.
  16. email or pm me if you still need an engine or anything else for that matter
  17. im very interested, but i have to get the engine in the car first, still waiting on parts....
  18. you might want to check out the nico forum, there is a vh board there with a lot of guys who have done swaps
  19. just checked pn for v40 rear stud is 43222-0b001 and v41 is 40222-7b000 so which one is everyone using?
  20. I found several threads about the s30 using rear quest studs, is that v40 or v41 quest? im assuming the s30 and s130 have the same knurl.
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