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tioga

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Everything posted by tioga

  1. There is a version that is raw.
  2. I am thinking of powder coating it to match the throttles. What do you think? I thing it would look like a complete package. I just sent 4 valve covers and thermostat housings to be done as well as my coil bracket.
  3. They are not similar at all. Very different lengths, different method of cross shaft, the lower one is a Australian Redline 12-3126 and has a drilling that connects the ports of cylinder 5 & 6 for vacuum signal. It could also be drilled all the way through and bridge all 6 ports. The one I have is from 1974 but is still made today.
  4. I too am a collector of old Datsun stuff and have several different triple intakes now. I am installing a harada for a customer as we speak. I do not have a SK and was about to buy one before the British pound too a huge swing down at the beginning of Brexit. When that happened I ordered a Mangoletsi and it is the nicest I have see so far. The port match template is very well done. I will say the very old TWM in that pic has a great casting. There are other things about it I don’t like but casting quality is great and very short.
  5. I understand how they could be but being different but that would mean a asymmetrical runner length. Here is a very old Australian intake against a old TWM and they are exactly the same. I measured my mangoletsi and it is the same too.
  6. Is the spacing really different between the carbs on different intakes? I suspect it may be the same. They are taking each pair of ports and either bringing them together or apart to DCOE spacing. They do this symmetrically so the end result would be the same. I have a air filter base plate stuffed away somewhere. One day I will pull it out and check a few intakes.
  7. I thought the SK did. That is nice to have. That way you can easily balance the throttles on the linkage.
  8. I wish they had a one piece fuel rail in this same style. Since jenvey knows the spacing they could make one. The custom tubular rails they offer have a much clunkier mounting setup. When you cut you connecting tubes make sure you put a nice chamfer on them. They like to catch the o-rings.
  9. Here is the harness run there. Just did a global idle stop with one of your SK levers. Fit nicely in the mangoletsi cable mount location.
  10. That’s how my injector/cam/crank/temp harness is run. Really disappears if you put air filters on.
  11. the 1981 zx turbo’s have a trigger wheel made onto them stock damper.
  12. Is there not enough room to use a wheel like mine? I had to turn mine down some on a lathe for clearance but it fits fine after thinning. I have a second one in 60-2 I meant to do the same mods to and swap out but never got around to it.
  13. I did a kick plate just like that for my fuse box. My ECU is mounted to another plate where the stock ignition box was.
  14. Here is a 36-1 I made on a Rabello damper. Here is the sensor watching it.
  15. I would want my ring attached to the center hub not the rubber mounted outer portion. There is movement in the outer ring depending on load of the alternator, a/c compressor and motor acceleration. It should definitely be mounted to the center hub. No car manufacturer Ever mounts the trigger wheel to the outer hub of a harmonic balancer.
  16. I was just curious which one you had. Something else I did was to get the light weight return springs for the throttles. They have two weights. They normally come with the heavy. When three are connected as triples it is rather stiff. The light version is perfect.
  17. I got a reply today from Jenvey on the additional air ports. They said they sent me the “wrong ones” a few hours later a package arrived from jenvey with a new longer set that looks like it might do the trick. Now had they sent me 6 instead of 4 we would be in business. Which one do you have? Note the barb I turned off of the short one. They both had a barb originally.
  18. It doesn’t look like the coils are on the plugs far enough. Especially 4,5,6
  19. Hi Tony, I don’t think that is what is happening. The original air bleed screw is longer with a taper that seats in the bottom if the bore to block the correction air port in the throat of the body. That is how the bleed screw works to balance flow. The opening to the front side of the butterfly is unrestricted and the taper at the bottom regulates the flow. Just like a mixture screw. The problem is the air ports jenvey sells just have a short threaded section that threads into the top of the body and does nothing to block the passages in the body that allow adjustments of air flow thus you have full air flow. That is why I suggested you would need to block the port in the throat of the body on the air filter side.
  20. I assume that is supposed to be NO Subaru parts
  21. Looks like you may be running the STI diff. You don’t happen to have a STI r180 pinion flange you want to sell do you?
  22. I believe 5/32. I can look back at my push lock fitting purchase to confirm. They let enough air in to raise the idle a decent amount. You can also just JB weld the hole in the inlet side of the throttle body throat. You can always drill it back out later. There is a Allen plug where jenvey drilled it to begin with. You can pull out the Allen figure out what size drill and re-drill it just like they did. I turned off the barb on the fittings I bought from jenvey and used push lock on them with carbon fiber tube and it looked great. I will prob end up filling the hole. I am on the fence with buying a new set of 50’s with their intake and redoing the whole thing. I would try to buy the ones made for the extra ports if I went that route.
  23. You didn’t ask for my opinion but I am going to give it anyway. Those fittings look crude on a otherwise nice build. Here is my design. h
  24. This is what I have used for now. I am using with push lock fittings and a stainless pipe connection them looks really clean. I will send a pic tomorrow. The location of the ports on the t-bodies looks even better and gets out of the way of the linkage but these work. https://www.oer-carburetor.site/product/16 shipping from Japan is faster than from California. You can get the heat shield at the same time, it is a very nice heat shield. https://www.oer-carburetor.site/product-list/18
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