tioga
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Everything posted by tioga
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I can check a bmw tomorrow if you like.
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That terminal might be for the 90* housing but will prob work in either looks a little shorter than I remember. They just solder on.
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0125450428.htm?pn=012-545-04-28-M22 https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0035452626.htm?pn=003-545-26-26-M22 housing also comes in a 90* version if that is better. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0115457128.htm?pn=011-545-71-28-M22
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Porsche/Mercedes round pin connectors should be the same. They were used everywhere on those cars in the 80’s I can try to double check tomorrow. I think I actually have one at work in a box of connectors. Look for Mercedes idle motor it temp sensor connector housings
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Can prob buy the Connector housing and terminals from bmw. It fits a 84 e30 bmw 325e I can give you the last 7 of a vin tomorrow. I have one at the shop now.
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That vdo valve for the bmw has a adjustable air bleed on it for a base idle adjustment.
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That’s one of the reasons I said before you don’t need a lot of extra air with this set up.
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I guess they were VDO valves now that I look back at them. 13 41 1 707 395 is a number to look at. Hose configuration is the same as your Bosch stepper motor valve.
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Bosch also does plunger type iac valves. I can give you a few part numbers if you like. The early bmw 325 used this style. Since we are one butterfly per cylinder the tiny bit you have to keep butterflies cracked to keep from binding when shut is enough for one cylinder to idle on. One butterfly Cracked per 6 would be insignificant. I don’t think it is a jenvey thing but a itb thing. Everything about the jenvey stuff has been extremely well made and thought out.
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They tend to like to be richer than 14.7. Mid to low 13’s produce a decent idle. You can lean it out a bit at your cruse and go a little to the rich side at work. What fuel system are you running? Can you just build your VE table and then just change your lambda target and have it adjust your mix? If that is the case at idle you can just try a few different targets and see what I am talking about. Idle will definitely fall off in the 14’s and be happy in the 13’s
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I am a little concerned about the long span you have with no bolts on your plate. Do you have a o-ring groove in the top or gasket? I would be concerned it will suck in a gasket without a groove. I have seen plenty of throttle body and intake gaskets sucked in with much closer bolt spacing and larger bolts.
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Rubber one. That’s a lot of valve when just a solenoid you pop open at cold start will do a great job and can be hidden like all your other plumbing. For warm idle control you can just add a big chunk of timing to your ignition map below your target idle and take a bit out at above. Works REALLY well. just doesn’t have quite enough bump when stone cold to start without touching the throttle. Once started will idle at any temp. And since it’s just a tweak to your closed throttle timing has zero effect on the way the motor runs. These Toyota ones have a adjustment on how much they kick up the idle too.
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You should get the top aluminum plate engraved with the old SK sport kit graphic. Today with the laser engravers prob wouldn’t cost much.
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It also does not interfere with the Oer under throttle heat shield and gives a double layer for a bit. Might think about this while messing with the underside. I have a couple very nice condition heat shield I was thinking I would send out for a heat reflective coating.
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The bolt is in a stock location hole on the heat shield. Does not rattle.
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Looks good. I have looked at the FET intake for the same reason. I have thought I might get the jenvey 50’s with intake and see what that looks like. On a side note I recently added a stock intake heat shield to my customer car with the harada intake. It fit really well and makes a huge difference on intake heat. The under carb/throttle body heat shields really fall short of the area with the most heat. Since the car was already together I just made a crude bracket to hold it from the top but it still looks ok. For my mangoletsi intake since it is webbed it should be able to be done cleaner. I have also thought with the Jenvey since it is angled up a bit it would fit even easier. You could also well bolt bosses to the bottom.
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I know this is all just dreaming but. The wheels are already far forward in the fender openings and like to rub the lower valence as built. You need to section some front fenders and move the wheel arch forward while you are doing all this. I wonder if any of the aftermarket fiberglass fenders have ever moved the opening forward. None that I am aware of. It would be nice to jack some caster in these things.
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Just in case anyone else is looking and can’t find it like me here is the thread size for water temp sensor ports in a 280z thermostat housing. 240z will have the same gauge temp sensor port size. Gauge Water temp sensor is m16x1.5 thermo-time is m14x1.5 Fuel injection temp sensor is m12x1.5 themo switch port is 1/4 pipe. side port on a 280z is 1/4 pipe
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Installed it today. Looks pretty good. For some reason Bosch reversed the power and ground pins on the Audi sensor from the Volvo. After I swapped the pins it ran just like it did before.
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I had seen the Jeep. It has been done before. I am a European mechanic by trade so I am biased towards Bosch senders. I now the reliability of this sensor and was already using the Volvo version so the swap will be plug and play.
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Hall effect
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I will swap out the multi window shutter with a single window. I just had that one laying around and they are the same other than window count.
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Used a Lathe, file, drill and belt sander. Came out really well. I wasn’t sure how I was going to hold down the sensor. At first I thought I would weld a boss for the screws to go into. I like my solution. I will make a spacer for the screw so it fill the gap between the sensor and the hold down tab.
