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Curtball

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Everything posted by Curtball

  1. We'll see... This would be nice
  2. The front fender flares would have to fallow the same plains as the hood and then drop off the side. The sharp angel going down the side of the fender kills it, don't believe me. Look at the pics while standing next to your car, and then compare it to several other cars adopting this same idea, and tell me that's going to work
  3. I'm gonna go ahead a burst the bubble here. No I haven't seen this guys "Full" design, but I've attempted to make this work myself, all the way down to clay sculpting on a model car. Our classic Z cars don't have the right aesthetics for this. Yeah the rear would work. Hell just take the Worx rear fender flares and modify them to look like a two piece fender flare and there you go. But the front is the problem with the headlight buckets, and that hard flat angel coming off the hood to the fenders. Theirs no way to make fenders like that flow with the sexy lines of the Z car without it looking like a stingray (the actual fish) the only way I found slightly possible is to make a wide front air dam to match. Febder flares a lone won't make this happen
  4. Don't give up like that man, it's just a small electrical problem (Price that comes with modifying) have you tried using a different turn signal relay?
  5. Looks like my MSA type 1 air dam, just remove the turn signal mounts. And use the febder mounts, then apply the rest to your car, like any other car lip
  6. Yup!! That's how mine came in, even have pics to back it up. With the same bs of a refund. Oh well, guess every single part of my project car is going to be a "project"
  7. I'll be keeping a watch out to see if this really happens in the near future, especially since I'm dealing with a nightmare front air dam from MSA
  8. I'll chime in on this. I ordered a MSA type 1 air dam a few weeks ago. And the overall quality was very poor, and the fotment is bad. MSA doesn't manyfacture these, but who they get them from uses the same mold. The turn assign all holes are already cut out too wide for the turn signals, the manufacture states "if you center the turn signal in the center of the opening and mark it then drill the holes. It should work without any issues" I think I should have been allowed to cut this out myself if it wasn't going to be done right. My number is short two inches as well, but the angles are too far in, I need to flex my number out. Probably end up making relief cuts ect. Again nothing against MSA, they offered a refund. But that's not the point.
  9. Like I said above. Teflon on the fittings you install in the prop valve to convert it to metric. These are just threaded fitting, you can use a little Teflon on red arp thread sealer. Everything else is sealed by compression with inverted flare fittings
  10. I'm using this http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8419 with these fittings http://trackspeedengineering.com/product_info.php/products_id/144 I then I picked up a M10 brass union at Oreillys auto parts. Everything inverted flared, I used Teflon tape on the metric adapters, skipping the first couple threads, then putting a couple of layers on the rest of the threads. Only did this to the adapters since they don't seal by compression
  11. Yes BF ment bubble flare. I was sent the wrong valve, and adapters. Was shipped a new valve , and converted to metric inverted flare fittings. Works like a charm now
  12. Ok got ahold of Wilwood. BF does stand for bubble flare. That explains my leak. Thanks for all of the responses, I'll try all of the other tips recommended if I have any more trouble
  13. Right on, I'll give that a try as well. I've emailed Wilwood about the one I have to see if BF stands for bubble flare. I'll give them a call tomorrow. As soon as I hear more about this ill post some info
  14. That's a good question about the BF part. I'll email Wilwood along with this picture and clarify that. If so, then I need to bubble flare the lines. Might as well get this clarified before I re flare and use new fittings
  15. Cool, I'm going to pick up some new fittings and double flare the lines today. Hopefully the solves the leak!! Will post once this has been completed
  16. Thanks for the reply. 1) yes I'm running stage 4 front and rear big brakes. 2) I'm having some imbalance issues with the rears locking earlier 3) my Wilwood PV is the correct M10 x 1.0 taped threads. No need to convert my fittings I have appropriate reasons for everything being put on my car. But for some reason I'm having this issue. I'm going to double check my flares, and make sure they weren't over tightened or if I need to change the fittings, and reflate the lines. These are the original fittings and flare btw. The valve hasn't been tampered with prior to this
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