islanddozer

Had a buddy stop by with an 85 300zx who wanted to align his steering wheel. Easy job I thought. Had the wheel off in a minute and repositioned and off he went. He can back in 10 minutes saying the wheel was great but has lost his audio controls on the wheel. What a nightmare. everytime we put the wheel on at different positions and got audio to work but positioning of wheel was off. Is there a way to align that stupid optical ring to make the audio controls work? Your help is muchly appreciated PS I have the FSM but does not show any way to adjust this

to each his own I guess. Won't be hard to find in a mall parking lot LOL

FYI a blown relay may still click but if a contact within the relay is coroded it may not receive incoming current.

Gotta love that rockauto eh. you can view the part and have all manufactures listed. What I do is, take part # down to my local supplier and I get my discount. This way I am not waiting if there is a part locally. I have ordered many parts through them but only if my guy can't get them. I purchased some main bearings from them once (sealed power composite) and they arrived at my place with scratches on them. Called them and they asked for some pics of what arrived. The next day they sent out new bearings and they gave me a credit of $50. Got the bearings the next day and up $50. Good bunch of guys

It is on the bottom of the intake manifold and has a small vacuum line that comes from the top of the manifold that goes to it, it also has a large air line that comes up from it along side the manifold and tee's off and one goes to the throttle body, this line is about 7/16 ID or so. It has a pressed steel canister with a nut on the bottom of it, it has 6 screws that hold the pressed steel canister to the aluminum housing, the whole thing is held on by two 10mm headed bolts. Any ideas what it is?? definatly not PCV pcv has one hose and is not bolted to mani

as far as intermitent elec problems, remove glove box, there are 3 relays on door pillar, 1 green 2 blue, 1 0f the blue ones is the accesorry relay, they can be swapped to see if it works but will need to be replaced if faulty

sounds like it is binding inside the rack. suggest rebuilt rack Try www.rock auto.com

its your cold start valve. I just reread your post and I thought you had said it was above the intake. The underneath valve is the BCDD (boost controlled decleration device). Read the Haynes manual and it says to be done by qualified Datsun mechanic LOL I have removed and cleaned many. Just mark the plates by scribbing a line disassemble and clean. Don't dump in fluids until rubber is removed. good luck. Still think the cold start valve.

Here is some reading about electric steering enjoy http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Technical/eps.htm the second genaration Toyota MR2's have an electric power steer pump that can easily be converted to original Z lines. If you wish to go cheap

With the v-8 I would go power, More weight over wheels make it harder to turn. There is electric power steering that is quite good and saves the power that a belt might rob. here is a link of a guy who used a suburu rack with a v-8 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112003

are you going to polish ? Pics look like you need to sand before you can polish. I used a dremel with a flex shaft and a flapper wheel to sand and a polish wheel and proper polish. Turned out gem Are you really planning to tig flat stockl to the cast ? Thanks for the pics and good luck on your project

check my reply to this thread reguarding windshield leaks http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148631 try www.rockauto.com and check catalog out. They show a pic of the part and ship within the week. I've been happy Have fun with it !

the question i have about that though is.....is it possible for the timing to jump THAT much in the middle of driving it? The timing chain has a tensioner to keep chain tight. It has a spring that after time may get weak but I doubt that your chain jumped any teeth. You most likely would have heard it. How does the cam gear look ? if it jumped any teeth it would cause damage to the cam or crank gear teeth. have someone turn the engine over slowly and watch cam teeth and look for damage on both sides. Did you hear anything before it died ? Are the plugs fouled ? were you hard on it before she died ? What about air filter ? no air no fire just a few things to check. Good luck

I am rebuilding my 1980 and am at the pillars right now. I have found a flaw in the design arround the pillars and vallance. I have posted pics below. There is a seam that the valance covers that leads right to the kick panel on both sides. I slid a screwdriver down the hole to show where the leak is.The last pic is from the inside looking at the corner. There isn't mcuh room but you can get a can with a straw of rust proofing in there. I pealed back the metal, took a putty knife under the windsheild and cut away adhesive back to where I couldn't feel any rust underneath, wire brushed, took a pick and cleaned away factory seam seal (what were they thinking when they used this porous stuff), rust proof area, self-etch primer, and proform pf 214 firm and flex rubber sealant. If you own a zx you really should look at yours. I live in a rainforrest so any leak is 10 fold here. I would suggest you grab those clips offered to you and cut the old off. Use 2 sided pro tape for moldings to install. easy. Good luck

You have a 1983 turbo dizzy there.He has a 82. 1982 turbo dizzy is easily able to rotate 180* and that is why I suggested it. I should know cause I have 4 turbo l28 in front of me from different years and not reading from some book. My original reply to this thread was pretty simple and was only to aid a fellow Z owner. RTz's reply to this and many other threads I have witnessed, is enough to make me leave this site. I am here to help because I have enjoyed what people do to their cars and plan to do some things to mine from the knowledge I have gained from others here. I try to help others so it doesn't feel like I am just taking. I have taken pics of parts, sent parts for free and helped with engine and electrical problems. Don't think you could have a better member and then to have a admin (who thinks he god) not questiion what I said but tell me I am wrong doesn't sit well with me. Guess I will just take then. Hey admin remove me from Hyrid cause you don't have a remove in the cp Nice to know some of you

BINGO turn rotor 180* after removing dizzy and install

which bearing and what engine. i have spare

you will probably get different ideas on your question. My advice would be yes change your lines and pump. The turbo pump produces more flow and the lines are slightly larger again allowing more flow. There is people on here I'm sure that run on stock lines but why starve a turbo motor of fuel ?

i noticed that i need a new fan because its not spinning with the engine. fan is attached to water pump. if pump isn't turning no water is flowing. Check water pump. is oil in water or water in oil ? Could have a bad head gasket now after overheat. Check your fluids

Did you test after fuel pressure regulator ? How about the fuel pick-up in the tank ? definately fuel flow problem

This help. From Rockauto.com. these are for a 80 280zx. They have parts for all z's 1980 NISSAN 280ZX 2.8L 2753cc L6 MFI (H) [L28E] : Drivetrain : Universal JointPriceCoreTotalPRECISION Part # 393 {U Joint - Premium} Rear Axle Shaft (Right Inner) Rear Axle Shaft (Right Outer) Rear Axle Shaft (Left Outer) Rear Axle Shaft (Left Inner) $14.78$0.00$14.78 ACDELCO Part # 45U0174 {#89029356} JOINT,RR WHL DRV SHF OTR UNIVERSAL PREMIUM; R; DIAGRAM I, POSITION 6 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG JOINT,RR WHL DRV SHF INR UNIVERSAL PREMIUM; L; DIAGRAM I, POSITION 3 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG JOINT,RR WHL DRV SHF OTR UNIVERSAL PREMIUM; L; DIAGRAM I, POSITION 5 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG JOINT,RR WHL DRV SHF INR UNIVERSAL PREMIUM; R; DIAGRAM I, POSITION 4 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG

according to chilton the vacuum control consists of a diaphram, one side of which is connected via a small bore tube to a vacuum source and the other side to a magnetic pickup assembly. Vacuum in the intake manifold diaphram which varies with engine speed and throttle opening, causes the diaphram to move, which in turn, moves the magnetic pickup assembly, thus advancing or retarding the spark. The distributor vacuum advance is controlled by the spark timing control system Don't think that is opposite of what I said. I was just keeping things simple. Just another reason why I am thinking about not helping anyone on here anymore.

activated by vacum to adjust advance timing hard on throttle produces increase vacum which will increase advance in timing

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!

you mean these ACDELCO Part # 45A0312 {#88910146} ROD,STRG Linkage INR TIE -; INNER $29.99$0.00$29.99