islanddozer

Getting fuel to rail ? Checked spark at plugs ? Power to coil ?

I've seen this Z on a insurance company calendar. It has been for sale for over a year. He sure has a pipe dream with that price. A BC bud pipe dream that is LOL

been a while sorry. here is a couple of cars I checked out over the last few days. Not interested in them but thought I would post them here for others who might be interested 240z for $1 on the sunshine coast bc http://s674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/BigDaddyP77/. 280zxt for 3200 homebuilt as you could tell

If your plugs were soaked in fuel I would suggest hooking up a guage to your fuel regulator on the fuel rail

your compression #'s look good so there should be no need for valve adjustment. Still thinking timing. Sounds like too far retarded. Idle should increase when advancing and slower when in retard. If the a/c compressor is not working, get rid of it. The first thing that went on my car. Save some lbs and allow more room for working on things. 1 long bolt with nut on top and 2 going straight up on bottom. Did you try to adjust that tps ?

tried a timing light? the backfire is from wrong timing. there ia also a crank position sensor that can be adjusted. it is on drivers side at crank pulley. by all means check that distributor

only $15. I use a clear plastic filter that you can get at walmart for $5 so I can watch the colour of the fuel and to make sure it is getting the fuel it needs.

sounds like clogged fuel filter and or fuel pressure regulator. How's the body? Need a shell for my turbo rebuild. Just up in Victoria.

there is a find bead meant for the aluminum. Then light brass wheel. It works for me

I'm sorry if I come accross as critical. I know you have put alot time into this project, and I don't want to discourage you. Not my intention. You will be pulling the top end to replace that head gasket. My advice is to purchase a complete engine gasket kit and pull that motor. Ok it had some bling on it but you don't need any grief. I use only felpro gaskets and have always been happy. Personally, it sounds like the head and block needs to be check for warpage to be on the safe side. $25 at a machine shop or straight rule and feeler guages. Check the bearings and rings. Won't cost you anything and you will have piece of mind. While you are the machine shop, you might want to have that flywheel ground for $15. It'll save that clutch

you said clutch had a 100 miles on it, not new and a properly installed clutch does not slip if installed on fresh grounded flyweel. Once a head gasket is installed the head should not be removed unless you replace that gasket. I have worked on 50 le28 engines, turbo and non and I DO know what I am talking about. Not one head gasket has ever needed to be replaced. You can't half-ass a engine rebuild and expect no problems. That is all I was saying.

Blowing a head gasket ? Had it off a few times durring assembly ? Clutch slipping because it was used ? A few questions make me think you need to plan things a little more to save yourself some greef. Just my 2 cents

You don't run a l28 with 20 - 50 unless you have a diesel Z. Just kidding. If you are burning oil you know you have a limited time on that motor. Running your motor with 20-50 starves your engine of proper oil pressure at crucial times (start-up, heavy on the throtle) Go to 10-30 and if you want add a oil treatment but you are ovoiding the inevidable

you take care of shipping and its yours. I'm in Victoria,bc

you looking for stock ? got 1

I just got back from up-islamd checking on my cars. Time sure got the best of these. The 240 is gone but have a 741/2 260z, 78 280z, 80zx, and a 83zxt left.The 260 needs alot of work but is still almost all there. Missing 2 front fenders. Hood,hatch and doors are off but there. The 280z is intach but it needs some help. Dissappointed about the cars being moved out of the barn but hey I never paid to have them stored so it is what it is. Gonna check out this 80 280zx tommorrow. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/8119073 Cheers !

Wow what a great responce ! Thanks to all who have thrown in their 2 cents. It's nice to know there is others out there that have expierenced (unfortuneatley ) the woes of a leaking battery in a Z. I have posted a couple of pics of the work I did over the weekend. I plan to scab that piece over what is existing. It's heavy guage galvanized. I plan to be ventalated when welding. I cut the parts that were protuding from the side of the rail and am supprised how well the new piece matches. Next I will sandblast inside and out of the existing rail and then scab this on. The frame rail goes from this new part back. Thanks to all that have suggested Null's work and Mikeatrpi's work. Good info ! And the offer to cut out what I need out of a good donor car Unbelieveable Thanks man but I don't want you to cut up your car. Thanks though

Looks like a lot of hard work. Nice job man!

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Always appreciate the feedback whether positive or negative. I do have access to a 1970 240 serial 0000129 But same deal with missing parts/rust issues and I do own alot of 80's. 10 last count and then at least 3 at my place. Have a buddy who owns a towing company who looks out for me. The only thing I am missing is a good canvas (body). I'm gonna work on this one, I think. It does look like a serious job but I have own her for 17 years and she has always been a blast to own. Love making mustang owners punch their dashboards:shock: Would really appreciate your input.

I really do appreciate your feedback. I went gun hoe on this project in Nov./08. Had spent hundreds of hrs rebuilding a l28et. Cleaning, porting, and polishing everything. Got to this point and had the wind knocked out of my sails when I saw the rotted frame rail because of the battery. I am gratefull of your link to your site mikeaprti Nice work ! Supprised to see the floor patch was welded from the inside. I can understand for the ease of the repair but what about trapping water inbetween ? I am only asking because I am trying to get strength and I am not afraid of working to get get it right. Hope this doesn't come accross as me calling down your work:). Not my intention My problem right now is where do I start. I have placed a piece of metal along the rocker panel (horizontal). The frame rail has been removed from start (below battery) to the rear. I drilled out spot welds to remove rail. The rail for the engine is in good shape the the top but paperthin on the bottom. I was going to wrap a piece arround the rusted metal and leave it in. Or should I remove it all together ?

any repairs I did inside held well and didn't cause any worsening. The rocker panel and rear 1/4's DID NOT work. Caused water to keep the rust wet. Looked ok outside but when I removed it, a whole lot of rust came with it. I had ground all the rust out and had spayed a rust product on all expposed when I did the work. I am always willing to learn, so if you have suggestions I will appreciate the help. I have all the tools (air everything, welder, grinders etc.). As far as skill is concerned, I was a Caterpillar specialist who rebuilt equipment for the Alberta tar sands. Have fabricated many hyd. parts but never have replaced a floor pan and rail that is hardly even there. But I am willing to try.

I have had my 1980 280zx since 1991. I rebuilt the drivetrain in 1991 and have put over 200k on her. I had used fiberglass to fix spots along the floor/rocker seams and placed some sheet metal over rusted floor in pass. side. I have a turbo l28 ready to go and just wanted to strengthen the body to be able to handle the new torque. I have every bolt out of her and then ripped my handy work out to see the state of integrity. I didn't want to put everything in to find out the first time the clutch gets dropped and have my car twist I have been reading alot of threads on floor and rail replacement. Most relate to the older z's that have a flat floor pan. The 280zx has a really poor design for replacing. Most guys here find a donnor car and replace the needed area with matching contours. I have over 10 280zx's all with the same type of rust pattern and it doesn't make sense to replace something that might be a temporary fix. Plus I want to put a lot of torque to my rear wheels. Here are some pics of my issues. The passenger side is rusted right out but drivers side is completely intact. As noted with many other 280zx, the battery rots out the firewall and main rail. My question is = Do I continue trying to fix this with new floor/rocker/frame rail/inner fender/firewall Toast this rusted heap and look for a California car I think I might be biased and am trying to keep this car for the memmories

to check the relays first see if there is power going to relay by removing the relay, ign. on and put test light in holder. find power then put relay in and on backside of holder with relay in, the power should be transfered to at least 1 other lead. Should click when ign is turned on/off. Like I said they are also transferable. So the 3 relays on pass. kick panel can be swapped. And the relays in the relay box can also be swapped with same colour relay. try the headlight relay in the efi spot providing the headlights work with realy in.

I am new to this and somehow i quick replied but it doesn't show here. O well I suggest you check the power to the coil. It is powered by the ecu and will show if you have power to the ecu. Another suggestion is to check the relays for the efi. There should be three relays above the fuse panel on the pass. kick panel. fuel pump ignition accessory I would check these out. Should be interchangeable. The EFI relay is located at the battery Then 2 relays for the fuel pump in the relay box Good luck

sounds to me like a relay is sticking. check your efi relays and check coil for power. draws from ecu good luck