islanddozer

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/motmt.html ask your local parts store to look these up. Probably special order but worth it

I have a 260z with manual rack and pinion and have always liked the quick response with its steering. The only advantage I can see with going to power r&p is when you are at a stop and need to steer. Am I missing something else here ? I ask cause that rack I picked up for 280zxt, is manual because I didn't want to loose a few hp's to run power steer pump. here is rack part # for 260z Related Parts1974 NISSAN 260Z 2.6L 2565cc L6 2x1BBL ® [L26] : Steering : Rack and Pinion Complete UnitPriceCoreTotalACDELCO Part # 3612101 {#88990629} GEAR,STRG (Remanufactured-RACK & PINION-MANUAL)* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 3 business days $219.89$55.00$274.

Why mess arround. This is your steering we are talking about. $225 for reman out of the box for my 82zxt. Wouldn't trust my life or others to say a few bucks. My 2 cents

if you got the p90 head with that you did ok. Forget about that f54 block. Take oil pan, oil cooler lines, intake and exhaust manis, timing cover, oil pump, dizzy, crank pulley, detonation sensor and crank position sensor. Build up your block with your salvaged parts.

Yes vacum advance. Is it possible you swapped a couple of spark plug wires ? Check firing order.

Attitude ? What did I say to offend you ?

looks stock but I had a 82zxt that was made 02/82 with 82 brakes but made for Canada

I am quoting MY FSM set tdc timing mark on crank gear and shinny link line up other shinny link on chain to be at #1 mark on cam gear "I set the timing chain up according to the FSM, with the crank timing mark at 3 o'clock on the right side, and the cam gear timing mark at 3 o'clock directly above it, and counted 42 links as it said." how can you set timing without being dead-on tdc ? 3 o'clock is close but you need to be dead on. Just put the balancer and cover back on set, then remove and install chain Could the turbo oil pump be different than the N/A pump in terms of the dizzy shaft? No same internal size Just impeller is longer Could the dizzy/cap/rotor/ignition wiring/coil/etc. be bad? no - Is this something I can fix without having to tear the motor down again? yes Hope this helps

I used www.rockauto.com. Fast, cheap and stand behind their products. I use their site for part numbers and try to get what I can locally first.

Sent

PM me your info and I will mail it to ya.Do you want the spring and nut too ? Should fit into an envelope ? Have to send a piston to e_racer1999 anyways. Don't charge for parts but it gets so costly to ship from here.

I am more a 280 guy but should have ground wires with the lights. usally green and screwed to the body

what model are you working on

Well that eliminates any rear end trouble. let us know how you made out. a couple of pics go a long way

It is a sump that collects the crud. Thought my tank was clean then saw the crude in mine. Glad I pulled it out. Not sure if it is needed as long as the tank is clean.

I don't get what you are saying gollum. You drive a oil bunner and put 20-50 in it so you don't burn it fast. Right? Run it what ever you like. Been a diesel mechanic for 30 years and know a fair bit about oil and how to read S.O.S ( scheduled oil samplings ) on million dollar engines. All my expierence tells me it takes longer to pump a thicker oil. Add carbon from years of service and you have flucuating oil pressure. Take it as you will.

no need to drop tank. Inside hatch under foam there is a round access cover to the top of tank. Pull screws, disconnect fuel lines and pop out. I have attached some pics of pick-up. there is one tab that needs to be bent back and 3 screws to remove the plastic Hope this helps

I don't know about MSA headers but the nut is to hold the header to the head. If you have the nut inside the hole how is it supposed to hold tightly to the head. Try cutting washers in half and build up the intake and 1 full washer over all or just order the mounting hardware

I agree about the turbo spool and yes compression is great for a N/A motor but turbo motors need to worry about detonation. Search detonation and see the results from other people.

but still need to find a stock Z pivot arm for what? I can probably give you one as long as you take care of shipping

any slippage on the clutch before hand? Sounds like the syncros are gone in the tranny. Roll it out of gear, hear noises ?

Leaking oil from somewhere ? Glad everything is back to normal. Good choice on the weight. I take it that you were running it on a thicker oil too ?

I built my motor first and after inspecting the body thoroughly I had to address the rust problems before throwing a 300+ hp motor into it. Have the same 280zxt. Look under battery tray and check frame at floor, floor seam along rockers, Rocker panels by back wheels and shock towers. Just to name few spots that are common and affect the strength. You have to start with a good canvas to create a masterpiece

If you ask me, stick with low compression and build your hp with larger injectors, fuel management, and intercooler etc. Helps to have an engine that lasts. Unless you like to tear your engine down

Weird I measured my block and to center of bolt hole for mount to back of motor *(f54) I got 16 5/8"