HS30-H

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Watanabe themselves recommend the following sizes for the GC10: F: 6j x 14 ( +21 offset ) R: 6j x 14 ( +16 offset ) or F & R: 6j x 15 ( +18 offset ) or specifically for the PGC10 ( GT-R ) which might fit your GC10: F: 6.5j x 15 ( +19.5 offset ) R: 7j x 15 ( +21 offset ) But of course if yo want to go for bigger diameter and/or more negative offset you are going to need to look at the variables of tyres and suspension too. Regarding the ignition switch - are you talking about just the switch unit itself as opposed to the complete switch / key housing / steering lock unit? If it is just the switch then I believe it might well be the same as an S30-series Z of the same year production. The S30 Z and C10 Skyline steering lock and switch assemblies have different part numbers. Your GC10 would have had 48700-R0101 ( watch out for the GT-R part number, as it is quite different ) but I'm sure you could buy just the switching unit on its own from a specialist. Now that you have bought the GC10, I really recommend that you invest in one of the repro factory Parts Lists and a repro factory Workshop Manual. The parts list on its own will save you hours of lost time and headscratching.

No. 89 'man' Yen = 89 x 10,000 Price is 890,000 Yen.

I'm watching the thread develop with a growing sense of disbelief. Somewhere - in a parallel universe - there's a Japanese army forces member stationed just outside Daytona, USA. He's found a scratch-built and relatively accurate scale model of a copy of a 1970 Plymouth Superbird, and he's inspired to replicate this model of a copy in full scale. He shows pics of the model on an internet forum, and some forum members show him pictures of the full scale copy - seemingly thinking that this was where the story started. My head is spinning....... Corzette, Surely you realise ( stationed as you are at Camp Fuji, just a few kilometers from Fuji Speedway - where Nissan's 'Works' Group 4 240ZR race cars pounded so many miles in practice and in competition, and were used in the 'Nissan Racing School' ) that the Arita Speed 'Akira Z' and the scale model that has inspired you are both based on FACTORY race body parts? A quick scan through the archives here on HybridZ ( especially in the Aerodynamics section ) would net you some pretty good data and pics of the original Works cars, and the homologated body parts that they wore. If you were going to copy a Louis Vuitton bag, would you look at a cheap pirate-made Chinese copy of it as reference, or would you copy the original? No offence, but you are sitting right on the doorstep of a whole ton of Nissan racing and modifying history there. I can't understand how you are managing to miss it. Can I help you in any way? Can I answer any questions you might have? Alan T.

Hmmmm, I like the "inferior" comment. Just chucked in the there for effect, or do you really believe it? This is exactly the kind of blind, sweeping generalisation that I am talking about. I think real life situations demand a little bit more pragmatism than that. Inferior on what terms? I think a lot of it is linked to the original retail price - which was hugely different across all the original markets. We should not forget that.

You make it sound as though I don't think the S30-series design and engineering was good (???). Of course it was good, and in some markets it was deliberately sold at an artificially low price that made it very attractive to buyers - so it sold in great numbers. But to just lump the vast majority of "Euro cars" into one group, and to write them off without any subjective discussion is absurd. Back around the fourth page of this thread, bjhines made this post: No personal disrespect to bjhines intended, but that statement just looks silly. Maybe he's just talking about a 'Bang-For-Buck' situation regarding showroom-fresh cars when they were new, but that's not the only way it reads. This talk of "superior design" is also pretty silly. Superior on what terms? This is like one of those "which is the best" questions which does not have the single answer that it demands and expects. I'm always deeply suspicious of anybody who makes sweeping generalisations about "other cars" whilst talking about their own as though it is the second coming of Jesus. Reality is usually a lot more complicated ( and interesting! ) than that. Alan T.

Yasin, You're making it sound like Nissan tried, but somehow failed (?). Nissan did make twin-cam L-gatas, just not six cylinder ones. And let's not forget that the heads that have been used to make the conversion we are discussing here were made by Nissan too........ Let's also not forget that aftermarket twin-cam 24-valve conversions for the L-gata 6 ( and 4 ) have also been designed and made in the past. Twin turbo versions of those were built too. So let's not get too carried away with ourselves and forget what has come -and gone - before us, eh? Cheers, Alan T.

I made the original ( RHD ) diagram - measured from my original Fairlady 240ZG that had these mirrors fitted at the factory - so I can tell you where I measured from: I measured from the EDGES of the mount ( inside edges and the front edges ) and not the centre of the mount. If you have a genuine set of mirrors you can work out the hole centres from the edge measurements anyway....... Just to stress once again that the modified diagram that 70z posted above relates to LHD mounting positions. Alan T.

You're welcome. Might I suggest that you direct any further doubts and queries you have directly to the person that you *might* buy the tensioner kit from........? With luck, they might be able to explain it all a little better than I can. Alan T.

Well, I can't 'hold your hand' through this. At some point you are just going to have to believe the words of others for what they are, the reputation of the part in service, and the integrity of its designer/manufacturer. If you can't do that, then abort the mission. I'm minded to think that some of the uncertainty that I can sense here is in itself a mirror of the discussions where people - who had never even seen the parts - were damning them with words like "bling", "pimp" or "gee-tahr string". Not very scientific, and bound to plant seeds of doubt in uncertain minds. I'm sorry - but you guys have really got me scartching my head in wonder here. WHY in heaven's name are you both still talking about chain wedges? I've tried to get across to you that you will no longer need a chain wedge tool if you fit the KEW Twin Idler tensioner. All you need to do is to support the chain against the effects of gravity to stop it from falling down inside the front cover, or from falling off the crank sprocket. It really is as simple as that. In fact, if you had your engine on a stand you could simply turn it upside down and let gravity do the job for you. I've just been reassembling my spare S20 twin cam engine, and it has a chain tensioner system that closely resembles the principles of the KEW Twin Idler. I wish I could have you both here in the room while I showed you how simple it was, and the fact that not having a spring-loaded foot tensioner pad to struggle with is a sheer delight! The original ( 1964/5 ) version of Nissan's L-series six cylinder engine also had a jockey-wheel tensioner arrangement, but this was dropped when the engine was somewhat simplified a couple of years later, and a cheaper option was engineered for it. The principle and the engineering are nothing new. I'm probably reaching the stage where I am over-explaining this now. I just want to finish off by saying that I have fitted and used these things myself, and have supplied an ever-growing number of them to people here in the UK and in Europe. So far, nothing but GOOD reactions and no claims / failures. Actually, the racers amongst those I have supplied would prefer as few of their competitors as possible to know about them. I should be on bloody commission from Kameari for all the sticking-up for their products that I do............... Where's that guy who is saying he's an official Kameari retailer for the USA market? He should be here backing up his wares to USA-based customers, not me. Alan T.

Just don't 'drop' the chain enough for it to come off the crank sprocket, that's all. The situation with the KEW setup is really no different to that with the stock foot tensioner, except you don't have the spring-loading to deal with ( and therefore don't need the 'wedge' ). If you are going to fit the KEW twin idler tensioner for the first time, you'll have the front cover off anyway. If you subsequently want to remove cam sprocket/cam/head or whatever, the situation is no different to what it would otherwise be. As I said before, just hold the chain up ( by whatever means ) and stop it from dropping down inside the front cover. Is it possible that you might be over-worrying about things that are actually very simple in practice?

I'll hook you up with a head casting, top cover, two rocker shafts, rockers, cam and ancillaries, inlet manifold and some other small bits and pieces. You will be on your own with regard to sourcing the exhaust manifold, pistons, rods, crank & flywheel, valves, valve springs and any other missing bits. Price is JPY 2,800,000 ( plus 5% commission for me ), and does not include transport cost from Japan ( or Import Duty / Taxes ). I have a factory 'LY' rebuild and tuning manual that I'll throw in for good will. Show me the green and I'll show you what you get. Edit: Actually, the Japanese 10,000 Yen notes you will need are brown rather than green............

No, that's nothing like the factory item. It's just a typical generic aftermarket FRP 5-piece replica that is still available from many sources in Japan. The headlamp covers appear to be factory items, in factory boxes though.

The chain wedge was necessary because of the way the old spring/oil pressure actuated foot tensioner would 'pop out' of its housing when the chain was relaxed by taking off the cam gear. The Kameari tensioner replaces the foot tensioner with a jockey wheel running on roller bearings, so there is nothing left to 'pop out' any more and you don't need to 'wedge' anything. You simply have to avoid dropping the chain into the front cover - and therefore something as simple as a piece of string will suffice. Surgeon: "Mr Smith, I have some good news for you. Due to new techniques in microsurgery, we now have the technology to re-attach your severed leg. You will be able to walk again!" Mr Smith: "No thanks. I just bought a new pair of crutches."

I don't agree. Many, many more 'LY' heads were made by Nissan than OSG made TC24s, and I know of at least ten times more LYs still around in running cars than TC24s today. I'd rather have the LY any day of the week. What's elusive is the green stuff to pay for them...............

The closest thing to a crossflow Nissan L6 is ............ a crossflow Nissan L6. All this talk of the O.S. Giken conversion, and no mention of Nissan's own 'LY'? Tut tut.

Gareth, Your car - if it was indeed an original Swiss-market 'HLS30' model - shared its body serial number sequence with the USA/Canada export market 'HLS30U' models. Therefore, dating the period of manufacture is quite easy. I reckon HLS30-52689 was built in late October or early November of 1971. It appears that it was not unusual for some of the cars sold into the European mainland, Scandinavian and UK markets to hang around for some time before being sold. There are many possible reasons for this, and we could go into them another time perhaps, but for the record I don't think it is unusual - so you should not worry about it. There are hundreds of clues on each car to date the manufacturing period, as many components were date-stamped during the quality control process by the OEM part suppliers. Most of the components on the car will have been made just a matter of weeks or at most a month or two before the car drove out of the factory and was transported to Honmoku Wharf in Yokohama. One of the easiest places to find one of these date stamps is the base for the rear view mirror. Just whack the mirror ( or give it a good pull ) to release the retaining spring - which is a crash safety feature - and reveal the base that is screwed to the header rail. Look closely, and with a bit of luck the QC date stamp in white ink might still be legible. You will see a year, a month and a day in numerical form, but the year will be a 'Showa' year number ( 'Showa' being the period of reign of the incumbent Japanese emperor at time of manufacture ) so you have to add 25 years ( Emperor 'Showa' - that's Hirohito to us - ascended the Chrysanthemum throne in 1925 ) to get the correct year. If the car was made in 1971 then I'd expect you to find a Showa year number of '46'. If the car still has its original Takata seatbelts then their date of manufacture is stated on the white labels. The steering wheel centre ( around the horn mechanism ) is also a date stamp location, as are the rear surfaces of all the Kanto Seiki instruments. Cross-reference enough of these date stamps and you should get a pretty good idea of the manufacturing period of the car to within perhaps a few weeks - which should be good enough for most purposes. Be wary of USA/Canada-market 'HLS30U' model variant-specific data and information when applying it to your car. Some ( or most ) of it will be applicable to your car, but some won't. For example, your car will almost certainly have been supplied as-new with the FS5C71-A five-speed transmission and 3.9 ratio R180 diff from the Factory, whereas the 'HSL30U' variants were not. The E88 head is most likely the original head. You might want to take all the talk of 'Series One' and 'Series Two' etc etc with a big pinch of salt, as it only partially corresponds with the spec of your car. Nissan themselves never used such terminology for these cars, and it is largely a creation of the USA market owners I think. To be honest, the classiczcars.com forum would be a better place to conduct research for data on questions such as this, and you will find the topic of production dates and model variants has been discussed many times in the past there. Most of the time your questions will be answered swiftly and accurately - but again, watch out for the naturally dominating USA-bias of the information and sift it for what is and is not applicable. Congrats on owning a comparatively rare variant with a good factory spec. Alan T.

From early 1973 onwards, L20A-engined models ( 'S30-S' and 'S30' ) got a new part number for the mesh grille: 62300-N3000, and L24-engined models ( 'HS30-S' and 'HS30' ) got 62300-N3300. Then in mid-1975 a new part - numbered 62301-N3000 - was introduced, which was quoted to cover all S30-series Z models ( including the 'S31' and 'GS31' variants ) right through to the end of production. I would imagine that many of the "432" mesh grilles being supplied today are in fact the 62301-N3000 universal-fit item or its equivalent. Hopefully, the above data might assist people who are searching for one. My philosophy is that - certainly when looking for parts - the more accurate and detailed information you have at hand the better. Perhaps your philosophy is to look with one eye closed? In which case, feel free to completely ignore the above data Alan T.

Actually, there was never any such thing as a Z432-specific grille. Original part number 62300-E4101 covered the mesh grille fitted to the S30 'Fairlady Z-L', S30-S 'Fairlady Z' and PS30 'Fairlady Z432' models from November 1969 onwards. From November 1971 onwards a mesh grille with part number 62300-E4601 was fitted to the above models, and to the just-released HS30 'Fairlady 240Z-L' and HS30-S 'Fairlady 240Z' models. So the "Z432" grille was always the same as that on the other models ( fitted with L20A and L24 engines ) sold alongside it. The grille that WAS unique to one model only was the 62300-E7200, which was fitted to the PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R' - and which had a different gauge of mesh to the others. Alan T

Just to nip this in the bud before any silly internet rumours get started; the 'Lightning' magazine article is covering a car that has had plenty of coverage in other Japanese magazines over the last three years - including several staged build-up articles in 'Old Timer' magazine that covered it in depth. 'Lightning' are a little late in getting to the party......... This isn't a 'new' TC24-B1, but just a lengthy repair and rebuild of an original one. No disrespect intended, but I think you need to get 'off base' a little more whilst you are in Japan.

The State of Washington "Assigned Identification Number" ( *HS130 001254* - which is the car's VIN prefix and body serial number ) tells you that it came from the factory with the L28E engine. That's what the 'H' in the prefix stands for. Looks to me like it is either an HS130 'Fairlady 280Z' or HS130J 'Fairlady 280Z-T' model. The difference between the two is in the trim and options level, and they both used that 'HS130' VIN prefix. Japanese market S130-series full model lineup: *S130S = Fairlady Z ( 1978~83 ) *S130 = Fairlady Z-L ( 1978~83 ) *S130J = Fairlady Z-T ( 1978~83 ) *GS130 = Fairlady Z-L 2by2 ( 1978~83 ) *GS130J = Fairlady Z-T 2by2 ( 1978~83 ) *GS130S = Fairlady Z 2by2 ( 1978~83 ) *HS130 = Fairlady 280Z-L ( 1978~81 ) *HS130J = Fairlady 280Z-T ( 1978~83 ) *HGS130 = Fairlady 280Z-L 2by2 ( 1978~81 ) *HGS130J = Fairlady 280Z-T 2by2 ( 1978~83 ) *KHS130JBC = Fairlady 280Z ( T-bar roof ) ( 1978~83 ) *KHGS130JBC = Fairlady 280Z 2by2 ( T-bar roof ) ( 1978~83 ) *KS130J = Fairlady Z ( T-bar roof ) ( 1980~83 ) *KGS130J = Fairlady Z 2by2 ( T-bar roof ) ( 1980~83 ) *S130ST = Fairlady Z Turbo ( 1982~83 ) *S130T = Fairlady Z-L Turbo ( 1982~83 ) *S130JTB = Fairlady Z-T Turbo ( 1982~83 ) *GS130T = Fairlady Z-L 2by2 Turbo ( 1982~83 ) *GS130JTB = Fairlady Z-T 2by2 Turbo ( 1982~83 ) *GS130ST = Fairlady Z 2by2 Turbo ( 1982~83 ) *KS130JTB = Fairlady Z Turbo ( T-bar roof ) ( 1982~83 ) *KGS130JTB = Fairlady Z Turbo 2by2 ( T-bar roof ) ( 1982~83 ) Forget about that talk of this being a "Pre Production" model ( I don't know where people dream that stuff up from ) as it is just a relatively early body serial number and nothing more. They started making these and selling them in Japan in 1978, so there's nothing special about it. Looks like a parts car to me. You could buy a decent running example in Japan and import it to the USA for a lot less than it would cost to make this one as good............. Alan T.

Don't get all paranoid on me, cygnusx1. Relax. My point is that the guy posting all this on the tamparacing.com forum is simply cutting and pasting stuff that originated on HybridZ threads. Hence the irony ( in my eyes at least ) of the tamparacing.com thread becoming a new thread for discussion on HybridZ............... Just the internet going round in circles within circles again...... That guy must have signed up as a member here ( I would have thought ) in order to find the information and pictures, and then post it all on the tamparacing.com forum thread as though he's an expert on the subject. Or am I just being overly cynical?

Looks like tamparacing.com forum member 'Laurentz' did use the HybridZ SEARCH function......... What's his HybridZ forum user name, and does he really look like Stewie from Family Guy?

There was plenty of useful information in that thread in my opinion. Maybe you should go back and read it again, whilst bearing in mind that the people 'dissing' the product have - in the majority of cases - never even seen one in the metal.

That article is full of mistakes and plain bad information. The car that is the subject of the article was clearly a modified Fairlady Z432, rather than the Fairlady Z432-R that the owner said it was. Huge difference. The article has been discussed here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17507