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I've been on several internships which basically let me work in an engineering position without a degree. OSU has a special program where take 6 months out of each school year to work basically as an underpaid, temporary engineer. Really helps getting jobs later on I think. I've thought about staying to get my Masters but ultimately decided to take my chances. I am hopefully going to get an offer from one of the places I worked for previously, but was hoping to have more than one choice for work..

The bolts when I fitted them in were a very snug fit, no looseness at all. The nylock nut should prevent most, if not all, of the loosening. I actually just took out one of the bolts yesterday. I drove on the bolts all summer, including about 10 autox events and this one came out fine with no visible signs of wear. In regard to the strength of the 5/8" bolt. Doesnt the stock spindle pin step down from a roughly 5/8" diameter to something like 10 mm or less on the threaded portions? If so I think these are areas of increased stress concentration and would make the 5/8" bolt much stronger overall...

Hey guys, I just finished my second to last term here at OSU. I'll be graduated with my mechanical engineering degree in March. I know there are a few people on here who work in many different fields. I just wanted to check to see if anyone feels like sharing the hiring situation at the company they're currently working for and if any new positions (for engineers especially) are likely to open up. I have been looking for jobs over the last few months and expect to do so full time over the next couple weeks. Ideally, I would like to have a choice between 2 or 3 possible places of employment and would start sometime in April. Preferably, I would like to stay in Oregon/Washington, but please feel free to respond if you're not from this area. I am definitely open to new things and places. In case someone is actually interested in my background, I do have work experience at 4 engineering companies, excellent references from my old supervisors, and can provide a full resume on request. Hopefully I'm not breaking any kind of forum rule by posting this. I'm just trying to network as best as I can as I look for work. Thanks for any comments.

I believe the Geocities site got shut down/incorporated completely into yahoo, so a bunch of sites went down. Here's another useful site that went down: http://www.geocities.com/Z_design_studio/ Anyone know the owner? It'd be great if he put it up somewhere else, the transmission calculator was very useful

You will find that a few people, myself included, have used 5/8" x 10" long bolts and nylock nuts to replace the spindle pins. They are a very close fit and should be a little cheaper than new spindle pins from MSA. Just be sure theyre both grade 8. I coated the bolt thoroughly in anti-seize before I pushed it in.

This is awesome! I've been playing rFactor off and on for a long time and have always wished someone would make a Z car mod for it. Really looking forward to seeing this progress.

... they do make everything better! Great video! I noticed that too. Going to have to find the song, I like it.

Yes, Z Race Products makes a kit for just that, though its not cheap. Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260-280z-Custom-Rear-Brake-Conversion_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53d6c0bdaaQQitemZ360085241258QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Looks like its design much like the other brake kits - just an adapter plate to bolt on the caliper, so you could probably set something up like this for cheaper I bet, but the proof of concept is there. Oh and I guess youd need something to act as an e-brake too...

Yeah thats very similar to mine, didn't know anyone else tried it. Now I feel better.

I actually did this very thing. I wanted to lower the nose of my car without cutting springs, or going to coilovers. So I decided to make new isolators instead. I used a piece of aluminum lathed into the shape of a hat, with a hole down the center and holes to bolt to the stock mounting holes in the chassis. I pressed a monoball bearing inside it to allow room for the strut to pivot during compression. The result basically works like a non-adjustable camber plate. I was a little uneasy about doing this since noone else had done it but I've taken the assembly apart a number of times to check for any noticable wear and haven't seen any areas of issue. Seems to work well enough until I get some coilovers. I can post pictures later if youre interested, I just dont have them now.

The RT mount design braces and holds the diff from the top so that diff clunk will be eliminated. I run one of his in my car with great results as do many others. Look for Roostmonkey's posts/threads in the Vendor forums on the subject.

Here's a couple pics of my setup sorry theyre a little dark. I'm using 83 zxt rotors and calipers. Not exactly the same as the 81 calipers I think, but close. I used a set of Russell SS lines (pn 686550) and had to buy a male to male adapter for the hose to fit straight to the caliper. Im pretty sure you should be ok with the MSA kit.

Since you got carbs now going FI would probably cost more. You will need to get a FI fuel pump, plus a few other things to get it to work. You can get the parts cheap but the conversion would still end up costing more than sticking with carbs. The 4bbl carb setup should bolt right in and work fine with whatever stuff you have now, mine starts right up cold. Cheapest option will probably be just to rebuild the SUs, with a little work you can get them to work just as well as the 4bbl cold or not.

Aren't there a lot of racing series (thinking BTCC here) where FWD cars run head to head with RWD drive cars and win at least as much as they loose? That should say something.

Just finished watching this, great film. Thanks for the link!

I should have realized the hole is tapered, I thought it was normal. I'm thinking I'll drill it out to 5/8 and use a straight metal insert so I can use a 1/2" bolt and rod end. That would at least avoid having to drill and tap both sides of the turnbuckle. If you give up on those guys Mcmaster has the taps youre looking for. Their prices are generally not too bad.http://www.mcmaster.com/#26565a392

Out of curiosity what is the original hole diameter for the steering arm? Is there a real necessity in using a 5/8 rod end and bolt? I was thinking of doing something similar but using the 1/2 rod end, then drilling the steering arm out and fitting the hole with a metal sleeve in order to be able to use a 1/2" bolt, rather than taping the turnbuckle for 5/8.

I'm looking to buy a set of bumpsteer spacers. Hopefully someone some laying around so I dont have to buy a completely new set. Please let me know if you do

Wow, thats awesome! Thanks for the link, I've been looking into getting into some underwater photography during my diving trips. This is an awesome idea, and pretty cheap too. I think I'm going to ordering one...

A neon wouldn't be a bad choice? I've heard some places the owners are required to sell their cars if the amount (1300 in this case) is given to them whether they like it or not. If thats the case here, Id buy the cheapest thing you can then save up 1300 and try to buy a car from the other drivers that strikes your fancy.

http://www.jalopnik.com - general car news http://www.locostusa.com - mentioned already but deserves a second, I too plan to build something similar. http://www.diyelectriccar.com - If youre into EV conversions, which I am, this is a pretty neat site. http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com - My favorite magazine. http://www.engineswapdepot.com - Interesting engine swap blog.

Everything you needed to know about Turbo Encabulators repair and were afraid to ask: http://jalopnik.com/5381718/this-is-what-it-sounds-like-when-you-talk-about-cars For those of you that dont read Jalopnik, check this out... I watched the video and got kicked out of the library computer lab for laughing so hard. (Sorry if this is a repost)

Wow... your story is so similar its a little scary. I'm on my last 2 terms at OSU and am working on my senior project as well. Funny thing is I ALMOST ended up picking a project doing engine design for the FSAE team here. I ended up switching last minute when I found out there was an opportunity for a project to design and build an autonomous underwater vehicle for a competition next summer down in San Diego.

Best way to remove solder material is with a tool called a "solder sucker." They are pretty cheap and make things really easy. I used this tool quite a bit when cleaning up the nasty solder connections my teammates created when building a robot for one of my school design projects.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder_sucker

That's a pretty neat idea, I've been considering doing something on my 4 bbl setup. They make solenoid valves, which turn flow on and off with a switch. Here is one such valve: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23905/?image=large You can keep manual control of the valve with a switch or use some kind of automatic control via a thermostatic switch. Here are just a couple ideas: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-63760/?image=large http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3653/?image=large These parts are all a little on the expensive side. I'm sure you can find cheaper, more generic, alternatives. Post pics of what you end up doing! I'll be very interested to see