z2go

Yes, we all do. Yay! Let us celebrate that all of our Z's were made between the end of 1969 and 1978!

This is a completely stock, well known storage compartment in all 240, 260 and 280z's. Any carpet kit you order for your car will work with it. If this is your first early Z, you should pick up a copy of the factory service manual.

I'm looking for a left 240z tail light in good condition. It must be in fully restorable condition, i.e., NO cracks in the lense or mounts. I will consider a matching set if need be. It does not have to have a good seal, I already have a replacement for that. Let me know what you have, along with some detailed pictures. Thanks!

The reason I am avoiding the stock cylinder setup is because with ThomaZ's solution, you don't have to hammer out the transmission tunnel to get it to fit, and it's been proven to work well. It wasn't too hard to fab up everything needed to make the swap, either. The JTR manual is good, but it doesn't mention that the slave cylinder is prone to failure, which seems to be the case. Any reviews on the Autozone cylinder and how it holds up?

I'm pretty sure that the WC also uses a plastic slave cylinder, at least that is what was on mine. I'm currently in the process of doing THIS: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/47635-alternate-bw-t5-clutch-slave-set-up/page__hl__thomaz+alternative

Thanks! To blast the car, outside and underneath and part of the interior, and have everything then sprayed in epoxy primer was a little over 2k. They have a couple processes that they do, first with a plastic bead blast, and then they use different types of mineral blast, never any sand, which is supposed to keep it from warping. They also have a process for low temperature rust hole filling. I'm not sure where you are located, but if you are in California, I recommend them! The company is American Stripping in Sacramento.

That's the conclusion I've come to also. It's not a bad thing, I think it's a really cool color. I think I've decided against it though.

This is GM Fusion Orange... I had a panel sprayed by my paint guy, but I'm on the fence about it. Even though it says Orange, I get the impression it's going to be mistaken for Gold, because it has so much green/gold metalic. Thoughts?

Goth - I really like the look too. It's tempting to leave it bare. I found that to spray it on, I had to dial down the gun (the one they sell) to get it to come out as any kind of spray. The ceramic insulation seemed to spray on a lot better. I didn't even try to mess with brushing it on, it seems that it would not be very forgiving and you would end up with a bunch of messy brush strokes. Turbo- Those are speaker cups that my dad fabricated and put in back in the day, but never used them. I left them in, because I'm planning on using them for my sound system. They seem to fit perfectly in that dead space between the fender and the body.

Update from the last time - I was able to get the lizard skin sound deadening and ceramic heat insulator sprayed, and just finished installing the newly painted and fully assembled suspension. I installed the rear without the differential, which worked out nicely. The car is so light that there is barely any weight on the springs, so the rear looks raised, and the front looks way out of alignment. This is just so that my paint and body guy can work on it, but it feels like a nice milestone.

That sounds like an awesome ride. Partrick road is off at the end of Browns Valley Rd, goes up into the hills west of town. I used to go out there for the twisties, it gets pretty hairy! It does dead end at the end of it, though.

That is ridiculous. It looks like for a Sportage, brand new seals are about $50.

Sounds like a plan! Somewhere like Partrick Rd, I'm guessing???

Mods, could you move my thread to the members projects section?

No problem, thanks! I have more if you are interested. It was really pretty easy, just had to make sure to follow the original lines.

Oops, my mistake!

No bad experience here, they are very helpful and look out for their customers. They might just be busy, or out of the office. Try calling them, they are definitely helpful over the phone.

I figured since I'm taking the pictures, I might as well post the progress of my build and get some feedback. The history on the car: 1972 240z, purchased by my step dad as his high school car from the first owner in the 70's. Had the car through a stint in the Army, married my mom, and sold the car to a childhood friend. A decade later, his friend decided he wanted to sell it, my dad bought it back off him. At this point, I was in middle school, and fell in love with the car. After getting my drivers license, I first learned to drive a stick in it, and bugged the hell out of my dad to let me have it. Finally, halfway through my senior year, he 'sold' it to me. I drove it around until the beginning of the summer, when I started to work on replacing the bushings and rebuilding the motor. That project got as far as tearing it down in the backyard, to the state as seen in the first picture. I joined the Air Force and shipped out that August of 2002, and my dad graciously bought it back from me. The car sat in that same place for nearly seven years, with hopes of dropping a V8 in it and getting it back on the road. Two years ago, I was stationed back near home, and the car had not progressed at all due to a million other projects that took priority. He offered me the car to rebuild, and I could not say no. I hauled it up to my place, and the work began last summer. So, here is a brief story in pictures as to the progress so far. What began as a plan to replace only the bushings and rebuild a motor turned into ones worst nightmare of "while I'm at it". The good thing is that I have a hefty reenlistment bonus to help fuel the project now, and it's going full speed ahead. The plans: Paint will be orange, exact shade has yet to be determined. It will not be going back to original though. SBC 350 mild build, approx 350hp, WC T5 transmission, all supported by JTR r200 rear end MSA type III body kit Lizard skin sound deadening and ceramic temp control for the interior Panasport 14" wheels Tokico Illumina struts and Eibach progressive springs Fully reconditioned suspension, painted with POR 15 Poly bushings All new rubber, everywhere... new wiring, everywhere... the list goes on and on. As it sat for seven years Initial assessment Work begins I then decided to go with Baddog rails... Fuel tank before With sump welded on And painted with POR 15! The wheels I am using At the sandblasters Done blasting! My engine was finished by the race shop this last week as well, very exciting. I was lucky enough to have a very highly regarded shop in town, and the price could not be beat. I am getting hooked up by my paint and body guy, he's letting me use his shop this weekend to put the car on his rotisserie and get the undercoating sprayed on. I might even spray on the lizard skin for the interior as well. More pictures are soon to come, of the rebuilding and painting of the suspension, and hopefully some body work and paint soon!

Why do you think it's low quality? It might be a different design than making it mount to the inside of the trans tunnel, but I don't see how that is a bad design, and it is no lower than the bottom of the frame rails (unless you are mounting it upside down). The crossmemeber is heavy duty, but I would probably be skeptical of something lighter weight. They also tell you to use a backing plate for added reinforcement, so I don't see that thing going anywhere. Not trying to start an argument, just wondering how you came to that opinion.

You will be hard pressed to find one in as good condition as a new one, especially for the small price. Here's a link to check out: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/HRK

The bolt labeled "1" It's a simple bolt that just locks the spindle pin in. But, that is for the S30. I'm not sure if its different for other models.

It looks like what you are looking for is the lock bolt. It holds the spindle pin in place. If you look at the spindle pin when it is out, there is a flat grooved surface that it is designed to tighten against.

Yours was mixed based on the original color code, right? It looks a lot darker, redder orange than original from the pictures.

+1 for Hoov's comment! If $300 in parts seems like something you want to avoid in an engine swap, you might want to consider a different route... the whole engine swap can run you between $5k and $20k, or up! $315 for the incredibly well made, ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY parts is well worth it. You can also go the route of making them yourself, if you have access to very thick steel, large, thick pieces of billet aluminum, and the tools and machinery necessary to bend and carve those pieces. Also I would not recommend solid mounting a motor to the frame... that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen... the motor is supposed to move with the torque, otherwise you are going to rip your Z in half...