z2go

This is going to be completely subjective... I don't think anyone can recommend a level of orange... that's like asking for a recommendation on how much pie to eat. The answer, "some". You might want to rephrase your question, i.e., "What different shades of orange have people used on their Z's" "What shades seem to look good and what shades seem to not" You also might want to change the title to not be so vague. One of the HBZ rules. Other than that, Orange rocks!

Holy crap! The fact that it exploded is interesting, must have been on a mostly empty tank?

There is a donut shaped rubber spacer that goes on the top of the rear strut perch. If it has never been replaced, it is probably disintegrated beyond recognition, and this can cause your rear end to drop. It is possible that one is gone and the other is not, hence the uneven sagging. You will need to drop the strut from the tower and use a spring compressor to remove the top to access it. These guys have polyurethane replacements, a pair for $22. http://www.racetep.com/datsunsusp.html Part # CCP-218

You should also note that this starter will not clear the frame with the 168 flywheel.

If you are going to do the work... and you want the car to last more than a few seasons, this is what I think you should do, based on personal experience: Get the body sandblasted, should run between 1000 and 1500, and more to get it primered to protect the metal. That will eliminate all of the rust, and give you a clean slate. Plus, you might have a lot more metal missing than you think... areas where there are no holes will magically be swiss cheese after sandblasting, because areas can be rusted through, yet still hold their shape. After sandblasting, weld in new panels or frankenstein your car with good solid parts of donor cars... if you pay to have this part done, you are looking at more than the car is worth, several times over. If you can weld, or can take a class in welding, that will cut down a lot of your cost. New panels are going to cost a lot of money, though. So, to keep cost down, like emeraldlion said, you are going to have to do most if not all the work. If you want someone to do it, it's not going to be worth it, unless there is extreme sentimental value in the car. But, that too is just my opinion.

As it turns out, that car is owned by one of our members He's not serious, in case any of you are wondering...

From an email I just sent the owner of the ad: "Hey, I had a few questions for you about your race-ready Z. What are its 1/4 mile times? 0-60? How does the front end handle? Thanks for your time!"

I have a block, I'm up here in the Sacramento area, but if you are interested, I have a ton of engine-related parts for a rebuild. The engine needs new rings, but ran well and was cared for. Plus I have a collection, of parts, could be a one-stop shop. Let me know.

PM sent

I need a pair of steering rack brackets, the part that goes over the top of the steering rack bushings to hold the steering rack to the crossmember. I need these because I popped the nuts that are spot welded to them, without thinking about what I was doing when I took them off. Please email me with what you have, I can paypal.

PM sent!

Jackhammer, looks awesome. Is that strut tower brace the one from Top End Performance?

You have a good point! I shouldn't expect any better on craigslist. Shame on me! I did have fun at his expense, but I guess its like road rage... there is no point to it, no matter how it makes you feel.

It was the email etiquitte that bothered me the most, not the price, as I already stated. Pointless and childish? The dude is still emailing me with his hard to understand, ignorant sounding emails. The point was, I didn't respect the guy in the first place, why should I worry about insulting him? The same thing that goes for this forum, I believe in for everything else. Your written correspondence says a lot about you, good or bad.

This is the one that irritates me, and this is the kind of guy here. It's not so much the lower price, it's the automatic cheapness factor. I actually wouldn't mind if he saw them first, and THEN asked if I would take 150. I probably would.

I am tired of Craigslist lowballers and poor email etiquette. So, instead of rant and rave (well, in addition to ranting and raving), I decided to strike back. Here is the setting: I posted my 80's style Supra rims on Craigslist for 200 dollars. Here is the email chain, copied word for word, in all of its glorious formatting: Him: will u take $150 for wheels Me: 175 and you have a deal. (After a week with no reply, I thought, what the hell, lets have some fun.) Me: How about 100? Him (after less than an hour): 100 yea,let me get a # Me: Actually, I think that might be too much, can you do $50? Him: ?????????so u want $50 for the rims.got any pic's.when can u meet up.where are u located Me: Nah man, I want $200. $50 per rim. They're like the craigslist picture, just four of them instead of one. Him: naw its cool,ur wheels aint worth 50each.i could piece it it at pick n pull for 20 each.for 200 i find a clean set with tires in craigslist ,good luck with ur sell...... Me: Are you not from here? I'm having a hard time understanding what you are saying. Him: i was driving and emailing u at the same time.i said,good luck with ur sell....cause i wont pay $50 for 1 wheel.the way they look on the pic's.because someone has another set of 5 with tires on craigslist for a good deal.don't get mad tho.....u were the one saying $175 then $100 then $50....read ur email correct.but thanks anyways. Me: No, I was just commenting on your poor use of grammar and punctuation. I'll go ahead and lay it out for you... I thought it was funny that you first lowballed me for 150, and when I said 175, you didn't email me back, go figure. I figured you were a typical craigslist lowballer, I thought I would **** with you and ask if you would do 100... who lowballs themselves? Funny, because you responded, accepting 100. So, why not lower it to 50 total? I mean, who am I to actually want my asking price? I mean, the wheels CAN'T POSSIBLY be worth what I'm asking, why would I expect to get what I think they are worth??! Funny how you were quick to bite on my obviously disingenuous offers of even less than what you offered me in the first place. We all had a good laugh over here, though. Thanks!

Goth-man, Have you gotten your hands on the JTR V8 swap manual? They lay out exactly what range of transmissions are direct bolt on applications, and even a few transmissions that aren't direct bolt on, but that you can modify yourself to make fit.

When I registered an out of state Z in Texas a few years ago, this is how it went: I took it to a shady, hole in the wall inspection center, and for the nominal fee, the guy looked briefly at the car, drove it in a circle in a parking lot once, and I think he may have tried the horn and windshield wipers. Tada! Registered. I think it also depends on where you are, I know that parts of Texas (i.e., Austin, Houston) are starting up, if they haven't already, SMOG requirements. Might want to check their DOT website.

Good luck man, for sure. You know, your post scared me at first... for some reason, I thought you were quitting Z's.

Mods, lets shed it!!!!

What is the value of this thread?

Well, to be fair, I am sometimes told that I can be an a-hole. It seems that guys like this are a dime a dozen... thanks John, for taking care of things quickly and efficiently! EDIT: Why does it seem like this guy was just another jerk who created a new account to get on here and do the same stuff he was banned for in the first place? I feel he will be back again...

If you have baddog rails, from what I see, they would be prohibited. The zedd findings are the stock replacement, baddog are further heavy-duty reinforcement and subframe connectors, adding rigidity where there never was any stock. That would fall under "material addition" and "reinforcement". By the way, since you are somewhat new here... this is what you would call a "threadjacking"