z2go

You would think he would have learned his lesson the first time he almost lost it...

Especially thankful for the awesome ideas and advice found on this site. Eat and be thankful! Happy Thanksgiving.

My Z has been down since 2001 for a motor swap and suspension work, and the project went on pause indefinitely, until last year when I was given the opportunity to work on it (was stationed by the AF close to home). Now I'm racing with time to have it at least running by the summer... I did have another Z, but I sold it so I could help defray the costs of this project!

Good lookin' out.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. To answer your questions, the brake and fuel lines are actually copper-nickel alloy, DOT approved and all. They are supposed to be just as strong and durable, plus no chance of rust. It's really easy to work as well, and the 3/16" brake line can almost double back on itself before collapsing. I didn't paint the cowl area or POR it because it was in good shape to begin with, no rust issues really, and I had it media blasted with everything else and epoxy primed. This car will not be living outside, so I'm not too worried about it.

Small update. I finished running the fuel lines and rear brake line. The cabin picture shows the machine screws and how they affect the interior... they are low profile enough that they shouldn't even show after carpet is in. I ran the main fuel line up the passenger side, and the return up the driver side. They will be finished with Earl's soft lines in the front and rear. I put some loctite on each screw and nut to ensure they don't go anywhere.

That is no joke. Having stood beneath a lift a time or two, I don't think any dollar amount can substitute the risk of a vehicle falling on you.

I'm relocating the battery to the rear. I took out the battery tray and smoothed that area out. I will be sure to keep the photos coming

Thanks! They are aluminum, pro comp heads that the shop that built the engine went through and did a little work on during the build.

Hey guys, its been a few since an update... got sick with a nasty bug that put me back about a week, but I'm back. The biggest thing is, I got the engine in the car!! Here are some pictures of the process. It was a serious shoehorn, but went flawlessly.

I don't think that any RB25 converted Z sales will drive the price of any parts up... it's too small a niche to affect the entire aftermarket and used parts market. I think Z's in general have been going up in value, but most of us have already put way more than the car is worth (monetarily) into it. If it were about money, I don't think this site would even exist.

Be wary of cheap alternatives... you might want to do a search on them, I know some other guys have bought eBay headers and the quality was equal to what they paid, if not worse. I think this applies: Cheap, fast, and reliable. Pick two.

Then you're SCREWED!!! You need to compare your exhaust ports and bolt pattern to a stock head, because it might be the same. Otherwise, you might have luck searching for other people's solutions to that problem.

That looks awesome! You did some great looking work. Your neighbors are lucky to have someone who cares as much about aesthetics.

I hear a good way to clean electrical outlets is with a metal fork.... just make sure you don't wear gloves. And try to stand in a puddle of water. ....in a lightning storm.

I'm in the Air Force, for the last eight years, in the Intelligence field. I'm not as old as Tony. I have the same 240Z from high school, which was my dad's, which has boomeranged around and come back to me to be completely revived.

Think about putting it up on Ebay. From those two pictures it looks like it might attract a decent amount of attention, but it's hard to tell without more, and without more detail. If you are serious about selling it, that is. If you wait long enough, someone, somewhere, will probably buy it for what you want, within reason.

I got my kit today, top quality! I definitely recommend them.

So who's Z is it in their garage?

You're going to need something a lot bigger, and with gas. Especially with the difference in thickness between the different metals. Welding the Bad Dog to Zed pans isn't that bad, but when you go to weld the Bad Dog to the original metal, you are going to have some serious problems blowing straight through the original metal, and it's going to be a complete mess, even if you manage some control. You don't necessarily need an expensive MIG, I did the project with a cheap old 110V "Migmate", but with gas. I had to practice a LOT with the different welds, upside down, and between different metals, joining different ways... I would suggest you do the same. Even after I got comfortable, I ended up going back over most of the welds again using a different stitch pattern to try to get more coverage to connect the metals better. If you use flux core, you are going to bust straight through the thin metal and leave splatter everywhere. It's going to look like you popcorn-ceiling'd your car.

The thing is, the pictures hardly do the color justice. I wish I could capture the full affect on camera! I guess I'll just have to settle for bringing it out to as many Z events as I can

I just realized that the original ebay link posted is actually the ebay store for MMS.