G-E

1" is a big offset indeeed, I sell some for the z31 that are 18mm offset (the minimum you can get away with) but that's on a car with a much wider strut base... My second concert is whether they figured out the bottom indent is slotted the wrong way on their others: If you look at the bottom of the 280zx kit (appears to be the same as the corolla part), the hole slots away from the steering knuckle on the outside, exactly where all the forces are coming from, therefore exactly the wrong way to remove material... This is how the bottom should look, no extending slot outwards:

Has no one made diagrams of the bolt patterns for the strut tops? I'd think this would be very handy, especially when universal undrilled mounts are available... maybe dual-drill for s30 & s130 bodies

It will of course, it completely changes undercar aero, and depending how bad that was, it could effectively produce a smaller frontal area for the purposes of drag

Well is possible this particular version of the mount is indeed captive in ways the early versions weren't, that diagram above by ES shows that they clearly had tearing issues even mounted in compression when the trans tried to twist... which means people found out the hard way that it was a dumb idea as originally designed, but any experience could have been exacerbated by torn engine mounts too Looking at the updated cross-section of the mount, I agree with you, it should work just fine, especially if all the other mounts/bushings are replaced

So it will flop around like a dying fish but won't kill you

Those trans mounts are supposed to be in compression, not tension.... there were some people who used those as diff mounts on z31's, and after some time they started failing. I wasn't around to see the carnage, I warned people it was a dumb idea ahead of time, so I wasn't surprised to hear it... I have an idea though, why not make a solid upper bracket that comes down, and use cheap endlink bushings (drilled if you can't find the right ID) above and below with a through-bolt & nut?

I made my own z31 tension rods too, machinist threaded the heads for me once I cut them to length, charged me $20 for the pair

Should be the same as the z31 non-turbo ?

http://www.redz31.net/zip/zautomatic.zip KEAS & level10 info...

I think you went to a crappy alignment shop, caster shouldn't affect tire wear if you drive around like an old lady anyway, only camber and toe, of those, toe will kill tires the fastest...

There's always improved weight distribution and space to put a huge turbo ... but the better question is the hp goal? the vg will be cheaper to build up to a point, but if you aren't really going over 300hp then it's probably not worth the effort

The best material would be 4140HT... still machinable, easily hardened more, but damn that tolerance error sucks

JIS bolts have undersized heads, try bel-metric

If the spring is completely linear (swift springs are very close to linear for a lot of compression for example) then compressing the spring 2" before putting any weight on it would not affect the rate... realistically you are though, because most springs are really not very linear. However by preloading it that much, you will probably have a really harsh ride, imperfections in the road will upset the car a lot more than they should, I'd say you'll probably want to cut a coil off... or as suggested lower the perch

If you have inside tire wear, it is more likely toe than camber, but you can identify the difference... camber wear is smooth, scrubbing usually leaves ripples or squiggly edges on the tread blocks

Well I was just talking to someone who installed camber plates on his Z31 struts with the large springs/perches... he said it barely moved 1 degree before hitting... I don't want to definitively say anything, but I think you're right to be skeptical :\ How much adjustment/correction do you need? What's your camber now?

You bought wheels that didn't fit recklessly, why stop there?

Inverted flare fittings rely on compression to seal, if you're using teflon, something is wrong...

Well your new wheels would have a minimum of 1" spacing from the rotor hat, plus whatever the wheel already had to the spokes, it's a good possibility they will clear... Your new offset would be -5

Wouldn't the best solution be moving the tension rod with offset rodend spacers and possibly a new mounting location on the contorl arm? Alternately, lengthening the control arm AFTER the tension rod would help too, though I understand based on the design that is a tricky proposition, but not impossible? Doesn't the reduced steering angle have unwanted side effects? How are parking lot maneuvers with it?

Yep, a couple of 4ft levels and measuring tape should get you adequately straight

Yea don't dismiss wheel flex so easily, if you have ever noticed how many hub caps fly off in intersections, you'd realize steels are made to be cheap.... as a kid I remember piles of hubcaps on the shoulders driving around town And I wasn't suggesting the stud interference on the aluminum ring was a lot, just that having a push on one side, and a pull from the other, especially when the flex will radiate to the opposite side radially, is bad news; I think you subjected it to complex bending forces that just couldn't take 1g for very long... even 240sx's break hubs road racing, even aftermarket hubs I also agree, aluminum is not the way to go, you might start with a "stronger" part by using thicker flanges and bearing section, but aluminum continually loses strength over time, even when it's only mildly loaded --- ask any aircraft mechanic I think 4140 will be resilient enough to use, it is easily hardened/tempered to the characteristics you want, and has a higher deformation strength than even 4130 -- I can provide you with some quality wheel studs to match

I have a question about that aluminum spacer for the rotors, is it possible the wheel stud heads were sitting just a touch above the surface of where the rotor mounts? Could that aluminum ring have been inadvertently "helping" it fatigue by pushing on the stud areas? It's hard to tell in the pic, but your stud heads all appear shiny, as if they had been rubbing...

Right now thru me... I'll PM

Try rockford driveline/rockford cv ? Also I'd talk to Dave @ shaftmasters, he seems to know almost all the nissan yolks/splines/flanges by memory