j260z

the closest kit i've seen would be this one http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html you would have to start from there and fab up your own vents though. i bellieve this is the same kit that Dan Juday has.

the r200 lsd units come with a finned rear diff cover and didn't show up untill 1987.

i took some pics and here they are this is the 4 lug rotor the measurement is 2 15/16" and here is the 5 lug rotor the measurement is 3 11/16" that makes the overall difference 3/4 of an inch or about 20mm for the front wheels only. i guess if you wanted the same offset rims all around you would have to get a 3/4" spacer and longer wheel studs made for the back wheels.

is that an r230 or an r200?

the synthetics work really well in the cold. i always run synthetics in my truck because in the last 5 years i've worked up north in the winter. if you think you can come out in the morning at -35 Celcius and try to start your truck with normal fluid in it you might as well go back to bed. i've seen guys driving around in 4 wheel drive dragging the rear end because the diff wouldn't budge. i always run moble 1. it flows well at any temperature and doesn't break down as fast as the normal oils do. it's a bit more but good insurance. that being said i don't know what rating i have but i'll check.

see what happens when you are trying to transport your new car and don't properly secure it to your roof rack!!!

sounds like you're slave cylinder is leaking for one. check and see if the pushrod on the slave cylinder is still seated on the withdrawal lever on the side of the bell housing. i would check that first.

thanks for the tip. i'll have to pick some up next time i'm at the parts store.

i am cleaning alot of my suspension and drivetrain parts with Hydrochloric Acid (and alot of knowledge, attention and equiptment) before getting them powdercoated and such. the biggest problem is how to rinse off all the acid and protect them before the rust starts, which is almost immediately. if i were going to dip my car i would most certanly request to see the process and make sure that they could coat all the hard to reach places. if i could be certain of the process i would definately get it done.

now it definately sounds like a transmission problem! you can rule out the clutch. i'm not a big transmission guy but i think it sounds like the second gear syncro is screwed. do you notice anything when downshifting from third to second?

it sounds like a driveline problem but without more info would be hard to diagnose. what happens if you have the car in a gear, say second, at around 3000 rpm and let off the gas let it decellerate for a second then give it some gas again? Do you hear the boom again or not?

check this thread out http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19746

Sorry it took so long but i finally got some pics. the measurement on the 4 bolt hub is 2 15/16" the measurement on the 5 bolt hub is 3 11/16" making the offset (on the front hubs only) 3/4 of an inch. thanks for correcting me on that dan.

sweet! what length springs did you go with and what rates?

Sweet!! sounds like it was a breeze. can't wait to see some photos.

nice selection but the only thing that bothers me is they don't give any wheel weights. very important if you're looking for style 'and' performance.

as far as i can tell you have to cut off the old spring perch and weld on the new ones supplied with the kit. correct me if i'm wrong.

check them out here. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=5

i'm looking into getting the same stuff they use for truck bed liners. it weighs a little but they can spray it on less than 1/8th of an inch (or so they say) and the stuff dries hard but flexable, doesn't chip and they can do different colors. I hate standard undercoat because it doesn't dry and dirt sticks to it. just my .02.

I'd love to get ahold of his headlight buckets, normal fg hatch and hood.

Ivan. correct me if i'm wrong but the reason you say that is because the 5 bolt front hubs stick out 20mm farther than the 4 bolt ones correct? I'm doing the 5 bolt conversion also and never thought about the offset being different. i'm guessing with your setup (which looks very cool ) it's tough to rotate your tires?

here's a picture of the z31 turbo halfshaft adapters from Ross C. they get welded onto your companion flanges.

any specific problems? It looks like it should be a cakewalk. the reason i ask is that i am waiting for my set from Ross as well. I already have my suspension sitting in pieces in my basement waiting. like you i'm lucky it's only a project car otherwise i'd be going nuts waiting. it's kinda like christmas when i was young.

here is a comparison of the 280zxt vs 240z companion flanges due to the difference in length of the halfshafts you can't use the cv halfshafts and companion flange from the 280zxt as they will be too long together. what you need to do is get a custom spacer/adapter welded onto your 280z companion flange that makes up the distance lost changing from the u joint axles to the cv joint axles. that's where Ross C comes to the rescue with his cv adaptor. this adapter puts all the geometry back to where it should be and allows you to run the more versatile CV halfshafts.

i wrecked an a arm on my z 15 years ago running over a rock that fell of a truck in front of me. luckily i was working in a shop with a torch and was able to heat it up and bend it back into place until i got a new one.