j260z

check out http://www.modern-motorsports.com. Ross has some great kits for both the toyota calipers and the rear disc upgrade. they include everything you would need except for the calipers. the calipers i'm using for my vented disc upgrade are off an 88 toyota forerunner V6 4x4.

i must add that the 280zxt conversion will require alot less fabrication seeing as the engine is a direct swap. the only hitch being the wiring harness.

have you lowered the car?

i would think the 280zxt should be able to do 250hp - 300hp without much work.

if it's an 87 it should be lsd. with it being a turbo it will probably be a 3.54 or somewhere in there.

i'm not sure as far as abuse goes but i like the fact that my 300zxt cv's are 3 years newer than the 280zxt ones. they are also alot easier to take apart and clean up. when i get my shafts back from the coaters i'll take some pictures of the disassembly and assembly. the other thing i will look into is the weight between the two. i like the fact that the adapters for the 300zxt are thinner therefore having less metal and less weight but that may be offset by the weight of the shaft itself. i'll let you know.

yes that is correct. when i took out my stub axles for the 5 bolt conversion i found that i had one 240 and one 280 stub axle so i only had to upgrade one stub. the 280zxt companion flange will fit on the 240 stub axle but the problem is that the cv's from the 280zxt are longer than the u-jointed axles. the 280zxt companion flanges are also longer than the 240 flanges so the whole assembly from the 280zxt will be too long for your suspension. it may fit but will not give you the range of motion needed for your suspension. the reason for the adapters is to make up for the extra length of the cv shafts and get the driveline back to the same geometery it had with the shorter u-jointed shafts. to go even farther, the 300zxt cv shafts are even longer than the 280zxt shafts so that is why the adapter for those shafts is even shorter than the 280zxt one. i hope this makes sense.

sounds good to me.

i have an early 74. the adapters that Ross C. sells are welded to the companion flanges that are off your car. the companion flanges from the 280zxt are too long to work well hence the adapter. if you are looking to put cv's in, regardless of which set, you should upgrade to the 280z stub axles and flanges if you have a 240z. the reason being that the 280z stub axles are stronger. you have to upgrade both because the 280z stubs have a different spline count than the 240z. here is a picture of the flanges for reference. except for the spline count and axle thickness, the 240z and 280z companion flanges are the same dimensions.

i could not tell you for sure but from what i've heard they are a tripod. when i see another z31 NA in the junkyard i'll have to pull a set and have a look. i may just buy them so i'll have a complete set i already have my origional ujointed shafts, 280zxt cv's and z31t cv's so why not round off my collection? at least then i can get some pictures and use them for dimensional references.

the last 86 turbo i saw wasn't LSD. see if it has a finned diff cover though. i don't know where bs corner is but would love to see your z.

it may very well be that the new undercoating and the spray in truck bed liners are one in the same product. that would be cool.

i'm not sure if i get you but i will have a look at my set tomorrow and check it out.

everything you mentioned would be good. the 5 bolt front hubs are a direct swap ,although the offset is different,(check out my album for pics) the vented discs will work with the front hubs for the later model toyota caliper swap (you will need spacers) the r200 diff and cv shafts will swap (Ross C sells the companion flange adapters) i think if you can grab the ecu from that also it should be worth something to someone also. my $0.02 anyways.

i just measured the ball and cage unit and the difference between the normal position and with the unit flipped is 3/8". so if you flipped the ball and cage you would shorten the shafts length by 3/8". the only concern i would have with doing this is with the tapered shape of the cage makes it looks like you wouldn't get the same range of motion out of the cv, granted this may only show up at the most extreme angles, and for all i know with the S30 suspension it may not be possible to even reach those extremes. ain't experimenting fun!! it's kind of hard to see the assymetrical taper on the race in this picture but without my camera at the moment it's the best i can do.

well that is a picture i posted. i was hoping to receive my adapters a week or so ago but due to a screw up with purolator they got sent back to me and then sent back to Ross. anyway when i get them i'll check out what is needed and post it. just from looking at the two cv axles and comparing the adaptors i think this may be just a straight swap and i will try it as such, then if there appears to be a problem with them being too long i will flip the ball and cage on the stub axle end and gain more clearance (my axles are currently getting teflon coated) so i cannot tell you how much they will be shortened by just yet. judging from the adapter pictures it looks like the adapter for the 280zxt cv's is quite a bit thicker then the z31t adapters and that would make up for the difference in length between the two cv's. hope that helps for now.

what year 300zxt? did it have a finned cover?

i don't think straight paint would be a good idea because if you get any rock chips it'll just start rusting. i am going with a spray in box liner material called line-x. I've had it on my last three trucks and it is great. the shop can spray it on anywhere from 1/16 " to 3/8" and the stuff is indestructable. not to mention that they can pretty near match any color or paint the real color over it. the other good point is that it acts as an insulant and sound deadener.

if you're putting the cv's in with the r200 at the same time then on top of the parts for the diff swap you will also need a set of adapters for your companion flanges. you can find them here http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=5 then if you are looking to do a brake upgrade you should steal the front calipers off your wifes vehicle and get these parts here http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=48

yes, the only thing you have to do is make sure you keep the correct speedo gear from the tranny you are replacing or you may throw out your speedo i think this dp thing is contagous.

yes

to the best of my knowledge the 280zx did not come with a mustache bar. to do the swap you need the mustache bar from a late model 280z or one of the 2+2 models whether it be 260 or 280. everything else should just bolt in.

sounds like Ross Corrigans department.

i have asked this question on another forum also because the 300zx trannys were a different Borg Warner T5. the answer was no. the only problem is i deleted that email and can't remember all the reasons why. i know that it does have a different bell housing and i think that i has a different input shaft. i know it was a good reason otherwise i would have already done the swap as i had a line on an 86 300zx turbo T5 for $90.

longfellow you've got me stumpped. livewire the only thing i can think of is that you have something dragging on the left side, like you said perhaps a brake. if this is so then it would be harder to turn the left side because you were turning the dragging side and rotating the right side also. conversely when you rotated the right side it would try to rotate the left side but if it was dragging enough you would override the diff and just turn the right side. it sounds like your diff is operating normally but i would check out the left side brake and bearing to see what is holding it up. it would most likely be that either your brake is out of adjustment or your emergency brake isn't fully released.