j260z

when did they go do vented rotors on the rear? whoops

when did they go do vented rotors on the rear?

the reason i ask is because i'm looking at trying to put a power steering rack in and with the rack being an inch longer to begin with the tie rods would end up being shorter than the ones on the stock unit which isn't possible. with this setup, between the knuckles adding length and using the shorter subaru tie rod ends, i should gain roughly 5" on either side. cool! what do you think of cutting off the whole tube on the z31 strut and repositioning the s30 tube so as to bring the camber back? i'm not sure you could do anything about the caster except lengthen the t/c arms. by the way, which rotors and calipers are you using on your rear setup? your input is much appreciated!!

did you lengthen both rods the same amount or did you only do one side?

the bolt size is 30mm. when i picked up the front suspension from a 85 z31t today i noticed that the steering knuckles pointed towards the engine. granted the steering is set up behind the control arm unlike the s30 which is in front. my question is why did you set up your system with the knuckles pointing outward rather than just swapping them side to side and have them pointing inward. would this make your steering too long? lastly, do you know how long you lengthened your steering by?

stony, can you remember what size socket fits on the stub axle nut on your z31's. i'm thinking it's about a 30mm but they are so recessed that it's hard to measure. i don't have a socket that large and would like to buy the right one right off the bat.

check this out http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

15/16" master cylinder and booster, slave cylinder and intake manifold with throttle body.

there is a good explanation for offset and backspacing here http://www.usacomp.com/Offset.htm

check out http://www.billetspecialties.com.

i've been looking into the power steering idea also. i was at the junkyard the other day and came across a 91 Subaru Legacy L and took the rack from it. it looks like this rack and the miata rack are about the same size but the subaru unit may have a bit more clearance (meaning less modification) around the engine mount on the cross member. i did some calculations and this rack has 15/16" more travel in it than my 260z unit and the lock to lock rotations were 3.25 compared to mine which is 2.7. this means that the 260z unit has a 18:1 ratio and the subaru unit has a 17.9:1 ratio which is perfect. with the rack being 15/16" longer i think i'll have to use spacers to shorten it to match the stock unit but with it shortened the lock to lock rotations will be exactly the same as stock. that being said, there is still the matter of rerouting the hydraulic lines but that shouldn't be hard. i'll take some pics when i can.

nice!!!

yeah. all you have to do is grind off the spring perch and then weld on the new perch that comes with the kit.

livewire23, go to http://www.modern-motorsports.com Ross C will set you up with a set of coilovers that do not require sectioning.

take solace in the fact that once you do get them out all you have to do is coat the new ones with anti-sieze compound and you should be able to remove them with your fingers for the next twenty years...(just like the manual shows)

cool! well that gives me some information at least. if i can manage to keep the steering linkages close to stock then i shouldn't run into any problems when i eventually install an rb engine.

i was wondering whether any of you guys with RB26dett engines could tell me if you use the origional crossmember engine mounts or not. the reason is i'm trying to get a power steering setup to work but am running into the same problem as fastzcars where the steering input into the rack hits the engine mount on the crossmember. check out this site http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/graphequ@pacbell.net/lst?&.dir=/zcar&.src=ph&.begin=17&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/graphequ@pacbell.net/lst%3f%26.dir=/zcar%26.src=ph%26.view=t any info would be helpful. i'm currently trying a unit from a 91 subaru legacy wagon.

you still have to remove that stud. what it is, is a wedge with a threaded end on it. to remove it just put the nut back on a couple of threads and then tap the nut with a hammer and the wedge should pop out the other side. the transverse links are the absolute worst things to work on on the z's. if there is even a minute amount of rust on them they can be the hardest things to get out. right now mine are in the shop getting pressed out by my mechanic. i couldn't even budge them by pounding on them with a 3 lb hammer. now i'm not saying that all of them are that hard but i've heard everything from them just sliding out to needing a 20 ton press. the good thing is that Victoria British still sell them for about $30 apiece. they also sell the wedge pieces for about $15.

very cool!!! i'm in the process of saving up for that very package. already have my calipers rebuilt and teflon coated.

check out this thread also http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21113&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 running 17 x 8 and 17 x 9 with stock wheel wells and coilovers.

i'd watch what you wish for. if your dreams come true you may need to install another set of wipers on the inside of the windshield...

the 5 bolt front hubs from the 300zxt sit 20mm farther out on the early z spindle. so to compensate for this you will need to get your front rims with an offset of +40 and the rears will need an offset of +20. the easiest conversion for the 5 bolt rears is to see Ross C at http://www.modern-motorsport.com. he will redrill your rear hubs, modify the dust shields and install new bolts. the 240sx upgrade is refering to a rear disc conversion you can do using certain 300zxt rear 5 bolt rotors. ivan280zt's wheels fit just fine, he was talking about someone elses wheels. as far as flares go i think you would first have to decide on which style you wanted and then measure up for some wheels from there. the offset won't change only the width of the wheel. some of the flair kits require that you trim off the lip of the old fender and therefore you would gain more clearance for a bigger rim also. there are a lot of variables that have to be looked at before you can make a decision on wheels. i think that is the reason you are having a hard time getting any concrete wheel size related answers out of people because everyone is running their own unique setup.

very nice and sleek!!

READ the thread in my last post again. i think ivan280z mentions his offsets being +20 and +40 for the fronts and rears. he also mentions he's running 18's. if you look at the picture of his car you'll see that he is also using stock fenders. the reason i posted the link to that thread is so that i wouldn't have to retype what someone else has mentioned before.

do you have coil overs? check out this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19927&highlight=