heyitsrama

@Twisted46 Thanks for the recommendation of the NCRCA, I'm very impressed with how much better the steering feels over bumps and within hard turns. It no longer feels like i have to fight the car in the corner. I have to weld my strut brace up, from what Jon also says there appears to be a lot of improvements to be had. ( and hopefully shaved time in the corners). October 12th is the next day, plenty of time to do some testing before then.

@Twisted46 whats the rundown of suspension modifications that you've made so far? Did the triangulation bar make a large improvement to flex in the front?

look solid, those 3d printers can be quite useful.

I think i have a shit setup for the track tho, its essentially just poly bushings with KYB struts... perhaps my expectations were too high ha.. I blame being a poor college kid when i started my build. 😂

any updates to this? i just tracked my Z after a long time, i was actually really impressed with the handling from my buddies CRX, and was kinda disappointing to get back into the Z.

@malibud hey ill email ya thanks

Still have the Toyota brake stuff? Can i get a pic, or a list of the stuff included?

I like the garage paint booth ha. does that oil pan have a baffle built into it?

I took all my gearbox to Marks Transmission in Fremont (mission blvd), my buddy had him rebuild/convert a Porsche gearbox (g50?) to accept a chevy 350 for a little 914 project he had going on. He was talking about having special tooling for Datsun gearboxes, something about long sockets, not to sure it was a while back.

Hey pickup a copy of "how to modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine" https://www.ebay.com/itm/How-to-Modify-Your-Nissan-and-Datsun-OHC-Engine-ExLib-by-Frank-Honsowetz/142883149470?epid=102900406&hash=item21447fd69e%3Ag%3AGJMAAOSwbaxbWUHc&_sacat=0&_nkw=how+to+modify+your+nissan&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc there's loads of information about some modifications that you can do, and will give you insight on how to approach stuff. :)

interesting that you went this route opposed to people that remove the whole roof then tack weld the panel back into its spot. Please do take picture I'm sure there are people interested to look at the approach.

One on sale in SFBAY https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/d/datsun-g-nose/6215344454.html

Does it make that sound when engaging power to the rear wheel? Might be the diff mount, esp if its never been looked at.

Oh man I just realized that I might have the wrong energy suspension bushing set. I ordered it for a "260z" from the manufacturer, but I believe its an early chassis, VIN is around 19xxx, 01/74 manf date. Now I wonder if the bushings will fit. :\

Howdy, Im looking for a set of Tokico's for a 260z, I require all 4 of them. PM or leave a comment below Ciao

Nothing for SU carbs? :0 it looks so good!

74' should have a return line already on the body. Upper one is for a charcoal canister, the lower one near the feed should be the return.

There was a member on ClassicZCars that had one in their for sale section a couple weeks ago.

you're turning the crank within everything in gear, its going to spin everything thats connected within the drivetrain. What i did to set the torque on my crank pully was to put the car into the highest gear (offering the most resistance to spinning) then torque it down to spec. When I was in first gear I could move the car forward while applying pressure.

bippaty bump, still looking for a mirror :0

thx leon, i got the disk grinder out and am trying to make one from an old crankcase cover off a Honda CB500, if it does not work out, ill get an OEM one.

Howdy, looking if anyone is selling their own fuel block off plates, or if they know anyone who makes some. On student budget dont wanna spend 30 bucks on some "bling" rather have something plain. Thanks

Tony, i'll have to consider it when i get another job, this build is quickly destroying my bank account >.> As of now, i put the cleaner set into the head.

The one that was in the N42 has an A on the end of it, with a 4 on the shaft. The one that was in the E88 has an A on the end of it, with a C on the shaft. The worst of the pitting has been photographed, on the n42 cam.

Howdy, I got the valves in the n42 head i picked up sorted out, no leaking from the seats The next step is placing the rockers and cam into the head. Currently the cam towers are shimmed, and there is no visible wear on the inside of any of the towers. I have a sorted set of rockers and a cam from an e88 off the L26 block, the cam on the e88 has a cleaner surface than the n42 cam. But it kinda got me thinking that if i have to move the rockers over with the cam, then should i not also move over the cam towers? I have everything torqued down, i dont mind taking it apart. Both are externally oiled, and im using the oil bar thats cleaner, and flows better. From my understanding the duration of the cams are different, but in reality i dont know much about cams. The small pitting on the cam for the N42 is not too bad, should be removed with a little bit of sand paper, but still, why do all the work when there is another one available. What yall think?