pallnet

Good info here. I surf the net alot just reading everything I can find on swaps of all sorts. I don't have the info on hand but I remember seeing something about a 5 lug swap on an S30 from a site overseas. The swap (if I remember correctly) used front hubs that looked like 87-89 turbo Z31 and for the rear they used a hub that looked like the S14/Z32 or skyline and they had CV shafts that looked like later shafts that splin fit into the later hubs. pallnet

Awesome It's great to see that you're training your helper starting at a young age... pallnet

That thing is sexy, if I still had a Z build I would own that for sure. On the same note fellas, if you use a thin sheet of aluminum or fiberglass under your airdam it will keep it from flexing. All you do is cut it to fit under the airdam and attach to the X-member as a bellypan. I did this to my Z and it works awesome, I used a front lower splash shield (fiberglass/plastic style) off a Jaguar. I think you can get sheet fiberglass from homo-depot. thanks pallnet

Thanks for the feedback fellas. We took some time to really look at the car and as much as he wants to learn to weld and build a car, this might be a little too much for him to deal with right out of the gate. Even though he loves the Z and we both have wonderful memories of the times we went out cruising to meets and just cruising around town, he said he would like to get somethign that he can start driving right away. His heart bleeds nissan though so he wants a 240SX with about the same plans we had for the Z, run a 4 cylinder for a year and then 6 cylinder turbo after that. Since I have a few L28ET's you can bet there will most likely be another fun 240SX running around here in a year. Keeping my fingers crossed, I hope to locate another cheap 240SX body so that I can do another swap for myself. Thanks pallnet

They look a whole lot like the "DTM" mirrors I installed on my Z years ago. They look like they were mounted a little differently though. Heres a close up. Good luck pallnet

Well as the title says, the Z might be saved. My mother has been raising my nephew since he was 8 years old and now he's 17. I used to take him to Z meets and just cruising around, he's always loved the Z. I told him that I would give it to him under some strict conditions. 1) I will finish removing all of the performance parts and continue selling them but I will also help him locate stock replacements (He's just getting into the work force so he's low on funding.) 2) He will learn to do all of the work but I will help him learn it all including welding because there is some rust on this car that needs to be addressed. 3) This is the most important, the car will get a bone stock Nissan 4 cylinder setup. Yeah I know to some of you that sounds funny coming from me but It will be a right of passage for him. I told him that if he can drive the car for a year without killing himself, killing the car or doing something stupid to lose his license then we will put a 6 or 8 cylinder in it. There are a few other conditions but they have to do with respecting other people and just doing the right things in life, morals.. I need some help. I am looking at a KA or a naps Z engine setup. I'm open to ideas of motor setups and suggestions. The car will not be getting any expencive or powerful setup at this point. Thanks fellas. pallnet

I'm parting my 76 turbo Z, it has the correct fuel tank for the conversion if you're interested and I think I can ship it if I let it dry out for a good few weeks After pulling it. I also have a Scottie stainless DP with an extra O2 bung welded on for a wideband sensor installation. Email me pallnet@hotmail.com, please don't be upset if I don't email you back the same day as you email me, I'm kinda in and out at times. Thanks pallnet

"Great swap. Is that a square driveshaft I see?" I wasn't aware of such a thing but no, it's an unplanned light illusion. I made this a few weeks back but I'm not sure if I will use it. I might disassemble and go at it a different way. Who knows? Thanks pallnet

"Hows it drive? Which motor was in it before (i.e. single cam or dual cam) or was it motorless?" It drives like a turbo Z but more stable. I like it a lot when I'm not battleing the stock EFI issues that normaly come with slapping something together from a bunch of used junkyard parts. The motor I pulled out of the car when I bought it was a single cam KA with a bad rod knock. I bought the car off some older people and the car came from Atlanta right after Hurricane Katrina. "well done, glad to see one actually done and driving." Not done at all, the car looks good but not perfect and I know there will be other changes to her in the near future. I do have some mean AZZ parts sitting in the garage waiting for a home..... "and you could never tell the pan was dented in much. it looks very well hammered. lol. " I admit it, I know how to swing a hammer in a very artistic way. "Post up some vids one of these days. Also, how much work is involved making the stock gauge cluster work or did you custom the gauge cluster with aftermarket units?" The stock cluster is in place and working although I have to calibrate the tach to the 6 cylinder engine since it's used to readign a 4 cylinder. As of this moment the tach reads higher then what the engine is spinning but the tach operates smoothly so I might be able to teach it how to work with 2 more cylinders. Thanks for the kind words about the car, it's clean but still a work in progress. My nephew told me a few days ago that there are guys at his high school talking good about my car and I only drive it to and from work a few times a week right now. I've been offered good $ to sell it more then a few times but I'm not budging. More pics and maybe some vids a little later on, the stock EFI is so damn useless sometimes so that's keeping me from driving her everyday. Oh yeah, I have most of the parts to put AC back in the car so that will be coming up soon cause it get's real hot down here in the south. Thanks pallnet

A few more pics. Soon to have some pics of the intercooler, oil cooler and AC install. Thanks pallnet

Tonight I replaced the CAS and timed the dizzy. While watching the timing mark, it appears to be fixed. I watched the timing mark for a good half hour while reving the motor and stuff and it looks good. Tomorrow during the day I will take her out for a drive to make sure all is well (I will have a spare dizzy in the car just in case). I sure as he11 hope I don't have to go any further with it, not that it's a major problem, I just can't wait to install my oil cooler, intercooler and reinstall the AC system. Thanks pallnet

This problem just started so the CAS could be on it's way out and then again there could be another issue such as cross arching but I will know more tomorrow evening. I will be taking the truck into for for sure, I don't want to play auto tech on the side of the road and being late for work is not an option. Thanks for the info fellas. pallnet

On my L28ET and 83 L28ET EFI powered S13 I having a strange issue while idling and then driving I can feel it in cruising so today I took the time to put a timing light on the engine and see if my timing shifted on me. I'm watching my timing for a few minute os so and one of the other guys at work came over to talk to me while I was in the middle of testing the timing. We both saw this next thing happen, the timing was a steady 20' BTC and then out fo the blue it would go advance a good 20' or so and go right back just as quick, if you blink you will miss it. It did this very erratic but intermittingly while we both watched it. I had pulled the car in a few minutes before it was time for me to lock down the shop so I had to get out of there and go home even though the car was questionable, good thing I live close to work. On the ride home I noticed that the car would have a erratic/intermitting miss just like at the shop. I was thinking about it the whole way home (A good 15 minutes) and this is what I think is going on. I think I have a "F"ed up CAS unit. I had some things to do this evening when I got home from work so I didn't get to test anything further. I have some CAS units in the garage and tomorrow after work I will swap it out to see what it runs like after that. Any thoughs? BTW if anyone followed my other thread where I was trying to get my mixture straight, I have it almost dead on and she was running real strong till this started. Thanks pallnet

Thanks for the reassurance fellas. I'm ready to pull the motor from the Z and see if I can save it, if so then it will possibly be lined up for another S13 swap instead of having to replace this stocker L28ET. Well the swap will happen if I can: 1) Keep the present L28ET alive for at least a year and 2) If I can find another nice S13 with a blown motor. Thanks again.

Today I noticed on my Autometer oil pressure gauge that at idle sitting at a red light the pressure is at 15psi. When I drove off from the dead stop/idle, the pressure rose to roughly 40psi. What are some readings you guys have at idle and so forth? I'm having a little trouble trying to locate one of my FSM's to see what it says, it has been misplaced. My car is running an L28ET in case anyone needs to know. Thanks for any help. pallnet

Here's mine Sportmax XXR 513's 16x7 +15 with 225/45R16 in front and 225/50R16 in the back I have a set of 16x8 0-offset for the rear but I'm not ready to widen the azz of the car just yet.

Sir The goals sound just like what I was doing when I ran SDS on my Z, it's been a while but I found my old charts and maps that I made. The biggest problem is that I'm running stock EFI and there is very little in adjustment that can be made without affecting another part. This evening I made a run to pickup my little girl right after work, it's a good 1/2 hour interstate drive each way. On the interstate I was cruising a good 14 all the way there and all the way back. I'm thinking I can tweek the clock spring a bit more (tighten) to lean it out a bit. In boost it's still 9's & 10's and kinda falling on it's face here and there. I really want to solve the turbo EFI issues I have but then again I'm thinking about just tossing the SDS on and spending my time tuning that instead. Thanks pallnet

Ok as of this evening on the way home from work this is what I have from tweeking a bit here and there on the AFM. I have a cruising AFR of 14-16 and going into boost it will richen as it's supposed to, I can watch the climb of AFR richness as VAC drops and i get closer to boost. Right before I jump into boost the AFR is around 10-11. When I'm in boost it seems it's getting too rich in boost because by the time I hit 7psi I'm running AFR's in the 9's. I did notice the samething you said, when my car is cold I get some flat lean spots here and there as I accelerate from dead stops unless I baby her till she warms up. Once she's warm she runs pretty good but I am going to mark where I'm at right now and give a little bit more of a tweek to see if I can lean out the boost a bit, this might smooth out that rich spot going into boost, it's like shifting the whole map up a little. My O2 checked out fine when I installed it, I will check it again to be sure it's not a factor. If I continue to have issues with the stock turbo EFI then the stock EFI's days are numbered. Here's a few pics of the car if anyone was wondering what it looked like. Thanks pallnet

I thought I would throw this out there to see if anyone out there has a different idea then what I think, I like to hear what others think. The car: 1990 240SX with a bone stock L28ET and L28ET EFI installed. The problem: I've been running the car on stock EFI parts but I've collected the parts from different sources. I hooked up my LM1 and ran the car to find that the car is too rich (AFR 10's) when you ease into boost, it boggs but if you hammer into it then the car goes into boost like a beast and holds strong (I'm running stock boost on this one) Mean while when you're just driving around the car runs perfect (AFR 12.5-14.5). What I've done: All of the tests the FSM for the engine calls for. I've checked my grounds to make sure I don't have high resistance since this is a transplant/hybrid. What I suspect: The AFM spring has been tamperd with (the cover was not sealed when it arrived in the mail. It's a used unit I bought off someone) What I'm gonna do: Tweek the AFM spring a tooth at a time and run the car till AFR's are right accross the board. I'm open to any other thoughts. Thanks pallnet