pallnet

I agree with Z-gad becuase I know of 2 people that have sheetmetal intakes made by a supplier that made a good bit. These 2 were put under some heavy boost from what I understand and both popped a weld from the metal bowing. 1/4 does seem thick and might help a lot when it comes to bowing.

I tied into the plug under the right side of the dash, search the 240SX forums. I had to run a few other wires in my engine harness but it was mostly for extra gauges. Funny thing is my stock tach works just fine and the RB guys claim to "HAVE TO" change the tach with a Maxima tach. I wired in a fuel pressure, oil pressure and boost gauges.

Chemicalblue "Just order your rail way in advance and dont get your hopes up on it being shipped until he gives you a tracking #, even if he says he did. lol" I have to admit that things are backed up here because if large orders and me working my steady day job as an automotive tech that pays the bills. Sometimes there's just not enough time in the day to do everything I have to do. In my defence, custom parts take time and everyone get's their rail. I don't know why you have to get "E" clips to hold the injectors. There's an offset bore to where the injectors go in only one way and the plug clears the body of the rail. I test fit rails regularly to be sure things are still the same from rail to rail. Most people mod the 14mm injectors by changing the tips and they fit perfectly. I used to have a supplier for the tips a few years ago but they went under with hurricane Katrina. I have a possible new supplier for the tips, they will be on my site once I seal a deal.

I have no time to mess with it right now. I have been so busy with the new job at Toyota (Tech) and making rails for customers that I havn't touched the car. This is the two plans I have if you want to do it to yours. A) Dent in the oilpan where the swaybar passes. The dent will be one large long dent (controlled). OR Remove and cut the oilpan where the swaybar passes then weld in a "C" shaped section to clear the swaybar.

Not one of mine. All my rails come with stainless hardware, fittings and custom brackets for a more complete install.

Maybe what I said was to the point. The stud from ARP in that picture being compared to the original stock stud below is in fact too short for what you are looking to do. When you thread them both into a hole and see where they will stop, then you will see what I'm talking about. 10mm thick studs is a very good option but not for everyone. Honestly, most of the people who buy my stud kits don't even have the head off the car, they are just repairing the car to stay running. With that being said, they're not really ready to have a head drilled and tapped. Now don't get me wrong here, MANY racers and hot rodders buy my kit, I sell LOTS of the stud kits. I have yet to hear of a customer or a customers car that has broken one of the studs I sell. Good find on the ARP studs though, I'm sure they can be used somehwere else on the car.

The studs you have in the picture are too short.

I don't remember what year it was from but it was the straight 6 Maxima oilpan and pickup. All of them are front sump and that's what you need. I have local friends that were amazed at how the L engine sits perfectly on it's stock mounts on the RB X-member with no real clearance issues. Hopefully some day soon I get some time to work on the front swaybar.

I spliced the ZXT harness into the SX. I made it "plug-N-play" with stock connectors. I had to unwrap the stock ZXT harness and add in a few extra wires for my fan control aftermarket oil pressure and aftermarket fuel pressure senders and to reroute the harness to where the ECM can be mounted in the passenger side kick panel. I also had to extend the AFM section of the harness. For this I used the AFM section from a junk 76 harness and spliced it in. All and all it was a pce of cake to do all the wiring. Sorry I didn't write it all down but this swap is gaining interest and I'm looking at the idea os making a writeup and also making/supplying the few special parts needed to do the install. Special parts: Driveshaft (I would not be supplying this item) Trans X-member adapter or modded trans X-member Downpipe adapter (This is to fit the stock Z turbo to the AM S12 exhaust) Remade ZXT harness. The front swaybar is a situation where the oilpan will have to be modded. I have to find time to do that and take pics. BTW: It's best to use the KA style radiator. I made the mistake of buying a 300 buck aluminum rad made for an SR20 because it has the same hose location as the Z, you will want the top hose to go to the passenger side of the motor or it will rub the dizzy cap like mine. I will sell my rad later on and swap to one made for the KA hose location.

I have a way of solving the front swaybar issue, I just don't have time to work on the car. It's been sitting for a little while because of time issues. The R32 X-member is the easiest way to get the L motor in the car. You will have to notch the holes in the tranny X-member and you will have to get a DS made or modified, do not use the SX driveshaft cause it's a 2 pce.

I really need to take some up to date pics and I keep getting requests for video.

Yes there are threads here and other places that you can read with lots of helpful info in it. http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77182 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=186964 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115464&highlight=280sx Any questions after reading those then just send me an email and I will help you out.

I had this problem but it came on at 3500 rpms. The mount was the problem and this is why with the help of Warren my problem was solved by remaking the mount. You can buy one from my site if you don't have the means of making your own. After changing my mount to the new one I made, I could sling my motor up so fast and hold the RPMs at any time with no RPM ERR issues.

Looks awsome, IMO that's how they should be sold. VERY NICE..

L28ET in the S13 is a clean fit and looks stock, well mine does and I've been told this by many Datsun/Nissan owners. The only challenge was/is getting time to sort the front swaybar issue (it and a small part of the front sump want to share the same space). When doing this swap you get a newer/wider chassis and the parts are everywhere for the S13's, not to mention cheap... Is it a good drift setup? I would think so but I can't say for sure yet. I used to drift my Z unwillingly quite often. Do I like to drift or go drifting for kicks, that would be a NO. Have I seen or know of guys drifting Z's and ZX's, oooh he11 yeah!! Are the KA's good motors in my op. I would say they have problems I know how to fix but most are dead before I can find them in the yards so this makes them not worth messing with. Besides I don't like the lower torque #'s compared to the L motor. There's always the 2JZ option or if you want to stick with Nissan and still be able to get parts you can us a VQ with a turbo setup. Now that I've done the expencive L motor build I will be doing all I can for a little $$$ as possible in the future. It takes a little $$ but not loads like I put out before if you shop around and keep your mind open, keep that in mind when making power.

It appears you have too big of injectors for the stock EFI system. I suggest going to a lower flowing injector or upgrading to stanalone EFI.

What EFI are you running because if you're still running the stock EFI then you will have this problem and there's only one real fix, aftermarket EFI. The stock turbo supports 300cc injectors real well. I'm not sure what rail you bought (14mm or 11mm) but here's a few injector sources for 300cc ish injectors, turbo Volvo (14mm) and yellow top NA Supra (11mm). Both of them will run well with stock L28ET EFI and minor tweeking of the AFM in some cases.

For a turbo motor with stock L28ET EFI you can run the yellow top Supra injectors they flow right over 300cc and you can tweek out the AFM just a hair to be able to run them, adding the 60mm TB helps with throttle responce, whith a properly tuned setup and the 60mm TB setup the car becomes very "snappy" off from a dead stop and when you're just punching into it while cruising.

yes I'm still turning them out like crazy. Checkout my site I can make you a rail and supply you with hardware as well as a seal kit needed for the install. I would be more then happy to help you with your project. Take the link below.

Well mine is a bit larger then that one but all and all you will LOVE having a lathe. My Rockwell was given to me FREE by my uncle with no tooling and a 3 jaw chuck. WOAH!. While typing this and multi-tasking I come accross this... http://cgi.ebay.com/6-INDEPENDENT-FOUR-JAW-LATHE-CHUCK-ROCKWELL-BRAND_W0QQitemZ250073997598QQihZ015QQcategoryZ25292QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem KICK AZZ!!!, I GOT ME A 4 JAW CHUCK..... Back to your new tool, enjoy it and never get rid of it unless you're upgrading.. Do the upgrade first though

Mario It only sounds expencive if you don't think about what you're getting. A solid aluminum trigger mount that will not vibrate and cause an RPM error.. If you've had the crank trigger kicking an error at 3500 RPM or higher and causing you to have to reset your SDs system to get it to run right then the mount seems cheap. I'm sure the mount can be used for the EDIS system but I've not taken the time to set one up.

Austin Send me a few pics of that prototype rail installed if you can. Thanks.

Tony That's exactly what Warren (customlock) did with one of my spacers. He loves the setup and has "0" complaints about the location.

If we had RB's here in the US without having to pay a fortune for the motor and repair parts with outragous costs left and right, I would have dropped an RB25 or RB26 in her in a heartbeat but we're not so lucky here in the states. I will be running my stock L28ET in the S13 for now with maybe some plans for building another hot motor. I was planning on swapping my Z's hot setup into the S13 but I sold the Z 2 weeks ago with all her goodies intact....

The R32 X-member is a direct swap with the S13 and S14 X-members. The steering is all the same. The power steering pulley is kinda close to the rad. when you put the L motor in the S13. You may want AC more then PS in which case you can use the AC groove on the crank pulley for the PS pump if you set the PS pump back a little. Right now I have neighter on my car but I do have plans for the AC. The stock Z AC compressor is kinda large and the lines will need to be custom made, the KA AC compressor has a serpentine style belt so the belts will not work but the lines will on the L motor. This is what I have come up with and I'm sure it will work. The KA in hardbody trucks have V-groove belts and the lines match the KA lines in the S13 so the compressors are the same but with different clutch/pulleys. I'm more then sure it can be made to fit the L motor very easily. That's the AC idea I have now if you rather PS there check this out. Use the KA PS pump with a slight mod to the stock L PS bracket, it took me 30 minutes with a cut off wheel, grinder and my MIG then it was bolted up. I used the hardbody PS pump pulley but the pumps are the same so you can snage the whole thing from a yard. Leave the stock single cam KA lines and stuff in place, it will all hook right up. Or you can just use the stock L motor PS pump and use the lines from an 810 maxima. BTW, the only major issue is that damn front swaybar hitting the oilpan and if you space it out then it hits the tension rods. there has to be a happy medium. I will post when I finaly find the right spot..