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pallnet

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Everything posted by pallnet

  1. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1107006#post1107006 Last post will help you out. pallnet
  2. Sirs Yesterday I found a common injector that is 11mm, low ohms and flows 190cc which is very close to the NA "Z" 188cc injector, they also have the same injector plug. You can pull them from Toyotas that run the 22RE engine from 83-87 such as the 4-Runner, trucks and Celicas according to my sources. I found some info on them being on a Cressida engine as well, 5MG if I remember correctly. This is exactly what the NA guys want for getting rid of the hose style injectors and going to a cleaner injector setup. For the turbo guys who want to stay with stock EFI and don't want to spend a brain beating time trying to tune/tweek stock turbo EFI then i have one for you as well. It may have been mentioned before but I can't locate it. Red topped RB20DEt injectors are 11mm, flow 270cc and they use the same plug according to my sources. I'm not sure of the ohms they run yet but if they are high ohms then they are the same injector as the KA24E and can be found easily here in the states. The only thing is the KA24E injectors are high ohms so removing and jumping your stock resistor block may be in order on the 81 turbo but 82-83 I'm not sure yet since they have resistors built into the computer itself. Hope this info helps. pallnet
  3. Sir It sounds like you found your problem. That new pump on the car needs to be removed and back flushed so that you can try to save it. Clean out all of the fuel lines and hoses on the car. Do this by disconnecting them in places so that you can blow high grade fuel then pressureized air through sections to clean out the rust. pallnet
  4. Wow that new info on your problem. Sound like you have some serious issues. Here are a few things to look at but knowing what year tank you're running would help because on 240Z tanks the pickup tube inside the tank tends to be obstructed if you get a dent in a certain area of the tank, I have seen this a few times. 1) I would put a FPG inline right after the fuel pump. This will tell you where your problem is (Front or rear of car). 2) If it's in the rear of the car (I.E. low pressure reading after the pump) then I would look at the pump, clog in the pickup tube inside the tank of trash in the tank such as rust buildup. Rust buildup will kill that new pump faster then you can imagine. 3) If the problem is in the front such as good reading in the rear but not in the front then you will want to look at the fuel filter. 4) Keep inmind that the FPR can cause the readings to be low in both areas. If you had O-ring issues then your car would run like crap from a vac leak, it would not have an affect on the fuel pressure. If you had a heavily leaking injector or injector set doing so then when you went to start it back up you most likely would either hydro-lock the engine (DOA) or wash down your piston rings and then you would have a serious hard start issue. pallnet
  5. Sir In mostly all electric fuel pumps there is a check valve. This valve is on the outlet side of the fuel pump itself or screwed into the outlet side of the pump and is part of the outlet fitting. It sounds like this is where your problem is. Some pumps require you to change the whole pump if the check valve goes bad and some require you just to change the valve/outlet fitting itself. The stock Z pump has it built into the fitting but good luck finding just the fitting for sale. pallnet
  6. I know I'm kinda late here but if you have to run more then the low speed of a Taurus fan then you have a heat issue and the fan is the bandaid. You really should look into a 4 core radiator and venting the heat from the engine bay. A vented hood or vented inspection panels will help a lot. pallnet
  7. Merry Christmas to everyone. I hope you and your family have a nice one. Thanks pallnet
  8. You just let me know if you want the square type. I will look again tomorrow when I get home from work, I could have one stashed away. pallnet
  9. It plugs into the bottom of the dizzy just like the 280ZXT does. Bad weather here right now so I might be in and out a bit. pallnet
  10. Ok I have a few square type from a Z31 including about 4 inches of the harness side. Many people are converting to this type because of reliability. Some have said that the round plugs tend to lose contact or have resistance issues. pallnet
  11. I'm heading out to the garage right now to see if I have a spare. 6:13 central time.. pallnet
  12. Looks great, so clean.... Wasn't Godzuki green? I planned on useing that name on a custom plate for my S13 but never got around to ordering it. pallnet
  13. Autospot You will be able to part that car on zilvia.net and get some good cash for most of it. There is an adapter bracket on the market that is used for a Z32 brake conversion on an S30, search and you will find them. Thanks pallnet
  14. I have lots of pallnet rails to sell.... Thanks pallnet
  15. "Got enought mags?? " No, hahahahaha "Id love a five seven, definitely on my list of "to buy." " It's a very nice gun, very very nice.. Thanks
  16. AR-15 Carbine FN FiveseveN and Glock G17 By the way: A "cop killer" is a person not the tool he uses to perform such an act. Support the 2nd amendment. An armed nation is a safe nation My S13 No pics of the wife and kids, they get most of my spare funds and time. Thanks.
  17. Hey man,

     

    Hope you didn't catch too much flack from work when you got back. We got home safe about 7:30. Terry flew home from Mobile instead.

  18. I have touched on this a little a while back. I ordered an aftermarket KOYO radiator for an SR swap into an S13. The hoses are in the right spot for the L28ET swap. Well it didn't workout because of how close the engine is to the radiator, the upper hose was resting against the turbo distributor cap. I pulled the SR radiator and replaced it with a new KA aftermarket radiator which put the upper hose on the other side, this worked much better for my L28ET powered S13. I took the aftermarket SR radiator and fit it into my S30. It will fit perfectly, mounts just need to be made. It honestly looks like the stock S13, S14, Maxima or even a bunch of other upper radiator mounts could be retro fitted to make this setup work, I'm not sure about the lowers but i do know I could make something work. HHUUMMM, I still have my S30 and I still have the SR radiator, I might have to look into a installation so that i can mockup some brackets for possible production. pallnet
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