fl327

i like 280s myself. thicker guage steel everywhere, comfier, fuel injected, and you can get a 75-78 for a lot less than a 240 and most of the time in better condition due mostly cause they are younger, but somtimes you can get a really nice 280 for the price of an "ok" 240 i would swap bumpers off first, i really dont like 280 bumpers. im not a 240z guy anymore, gimmie a 280 any day.

im really into the zxt stock harness, its really really simple.

man i love beating auction buckets. i have no max speed, but ive done 100mph for at least an hour straight coming back from so. cal. na zx 5 speed was turning about 3500 or so and i was pushing 11psi in od going WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSH the entire time, it felt grrrrrrreat. max speed ever in my v8z was 125 when i dared not push fourth gear any longer and the front end was shaking a lot. sidenote-my turbo car at the time had stock suspension and at 100mph it felt stable as heck, its a 280. the 240 with completely rebuilt front suspension wobbled around crazily at 80mph?? i dont know....

when i go for the swap again, im gonna make a crazy 280zxt first with the body and title from hell.

find a running 280zxt cheap, and drive it for a while, get it running good and get it to the point where you are very confident in it. shoot, do all your bolt ons to it, throttle body, fmic, bov, turn up the boost whatever. if its still running good by the time you have done all those mods to it, it will run well in an earlier z body. salvage title, 290k whatever, just find a complete car that you can drive around, this is the cheapest way i can think of, or you can spend countless days in the jy taking off each piece individually. i found a donor last week for 200.00 and drove it away with pleasure, the deals are there waiting for you. you can do it.

450 hp is more easily done out of a 2jz or a gn motor i think. the buy in is much higher though and the fabrication is a lot tougher. gn motors hit redline way too quick and low for a stick to be effective, but it can be done, thats why im not looking into a gn swap, i like shifting for myself.

bump

gear it up.

if you were closer i would have done made you turbo by now! i mean the drop in and the efi part though, cant really trust myself rebuilding the whole motor. could do the head and timing chain though, no bottom end. R200 is pretty easy too. i havent thought of the storage space idea-thats a good one.

first car i raced with turbo was an rsx on the freeway. got em, got em good... you probably have power to weight all over that thing though, probably be a good race from a light as well.

super trapps are pretty raspy but i have only heard them on carbed v8 cars. i run a 3" borla and its make great smooth noise, with minimal droning.

same kind of rubber hose that you use for an oil cooler will work for that function. i use it on mine and it hasnt busted yet.

that nissan-garret T3 spins up fast on low end i think, im getting 10lbs by 3-3.2k and flying with this setup. i dont run anything fancy though, stock efi with a big exhaust and the boost turned up. low end is not a problem.

you can get that motor and trans for about 4k if youre real lucky, and i believe 6k is about going price for that setup. i would sell the harness, ecu, and the twin turbo setup manifolds, intercooler all at once to fund a T78 single turbo setup and SDS to make it even simpler. 400hp@ a low boost setting is very doable in that configuration and the crossflow head makes ic plumbing pretty simple as well. i would actually run this motor before i would ever do an rb swap because of domestic parts availability. that single turbo setup, motor trans and efi would put me almost 9k in the whole before we start talking about mounts, intercooler, and a million other things not including the custom fab work that has to be done exhaust wise. big power is always gonna be big money. and 450hp is big power. gas mileage should be good off boost, and be pretty reliable once properly setup.

jcr blower is bolt on, made by camden. probably dont makethem anymore, and its a shame too. they still have a photo of it in the catalog, but i do believe its out of production.

drag radials 225/50/15 on a 7" tire.

hey whats goin on guys. question about blow off valves here. im currently running the bosch bov, which i currently have mine setup to recirculate, mostly because my car will stall beause it vents vaccum at idle. my buddy is parting out his 87 supra and im probably going to pick up his turbo xs bov and mounting elbow to use once i get FMIC. my setup is 280zxt efi and im wondering if i will still have the stalling problem if i set the bov to vent into the atmosphere? ive heard that you can add springs to keep the valve shut for sure at idle? just wondering, i dont want to pick up the bov if it messes with drivability-thats goal number one with this setup right now.

rotarys are fun, and ive been lucky with them so far. maybe in the future ill do a 1984 gsl-se with a turbo 2 motor. those turbo 2's are pretty quick once you start turnning up the boost.

boost! im still having a ball boosting, im soon to be at 15psi once i install my IC. sounds like you have a really strong motor, i wouldnt touch it internally yet since you stated lowbuck. once you open it up, you open up a lot of variables, plus when cam with lash pads and hardware starts at 500.00, low buck is already out of the question-at least for me. i am thinking about doing another 280z NA and this what i would do before touching the motor, thinking in terms of junkyard score almost strictly. 60mm 240sx throttle body. i run mine with a cable because i didnt want to have a spacer machined, and plus you can hack off the bar linkage mounts on manifold, making it CLEAN... havent done this on an NA car so i dont know how much power it would make, on a TURBO setup its very noticeable. cold air intake- what i did on my old 280z NA was take a die grinder and cut off the top of the stock air box, leaving the wingnut portion intact and dropped a square k and n air filter into the mix using what was left of the top to secure it to the box-makes that moaning induction noise that the girls love, freed up maybe 5hp on my car-but the og air filter was extremely dirty. recurve the distributor-good for another handful of hp. i dont know how to do it, my boss at the shop did it for me and i tried to watch him do it so i would learn it, but i still cant do it. this was good for another couple hp, and way better response and starting. header and 2.5inch piping to a nice muffler-i recommend borlas over almost anything these days. i run a 3" exuaust to a 3"in/out ss borla and its great, doesnt sound like a honda and doesnt melt my eardrums with drone. tune up the afm-usually they could use a little tuning to get mixture setup for some beating. 3.90 rear end and short tire/rim combo. i still might put 3.90s in my car. dramatic change in off the line type situations, and fun as heck. all of this is pretty cheap except for the exhaust. this is what i would do before ever touching the motor.

do it, do it now.

them small journal motors are pretty tough.

only 87-89 are limited slip. none other came with limited slip, and ive never seen a 300zx that matches the description in the yard with its diff intact-always gone

you could always go titanium, and if youre really feeling rich-oval 4" all the way back.

we had a gn run 12.43 with that stock intercooler, were not tech enough to know if we were running max efficiency, but that gn is fast as hell, it does have a larger turbo and injectors though. but they ugly, but hey if you can find one cheap enough, you in there, good sleeper cause it looks like a radiator kinda.

i really like rotaries now, just got rid of the turbo2 though. man i would love to shove one in a 510 or one of those early 70s corollas, zip zip gone.