Oddmanout84

This thread actually made me excited about taking my valvetrain apart, since there's a spare head from an NA L28 sitting on my bench...

That manifold looks ready to cook whatever oil passes through that filter.

Any chance you can send a link? I'm not sure if the stuff I found on google will work...

Damn Derek... You make all sorts of cool stuff. If only I could figure out how I'm going to go about switching to EDIS...

Thanks!

I would like.

Is the stock RB alternator really so bad that it can't handle the amperage of a 30+ year old car?

I dunno about that price quote there. All the L series harmonic dampers I've looked at there START at around $457, and another $140 and change for a trigger wheel. That's not even counting sensors or brackets (which I don't see there).

Yeah, that's a "bit grimy" enough to eat off of.

That video would have been so much more enjoyable if the jet pack had detonated and the camera zoomed out from the patch of fiery wreckage.

I have used those on I don't know how many car projects in an attempt to avoid buying additional larger cutting equipment. You will use MANY of them should you choose to take that path. If your concern is cost effectiveness, get a hacksaw and a few extra blades. Otherwise, the suggestions provided above (sawzall, bandsaw etc) are really the best bet.

Down, but far from out, my 280z remains. A lot has happened since early summer, but to sum it up quickly the machine shop took forever to work on the motor. So long, that I completely got out of habit of working on the car. Some other work was done while I was bored, as long as it didn't cost and measurable amount of money (the aero and tail lights were free). The engine came back from the machine shop cleanly bored and decked moths later, the entire rotating assembly balanced together.... and went straight to the back of the garage. And so it sat. I sold my beloved Harley Davidson to buy a reliable daily driven Mazda, and have only recently begun collecting the rest of the parts I need to rebuild the L28. Clevite bearings in standard size were remarkably hard to find from one of my usual suppliers, so they were eventually found on ebay. And so now it begins, the rebuild. And now I'm not so sure about the L28... some better deals may have come along...

To add to what WizardBlack is saying, refer to page two of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72928-rb-rebuild/page__st__20 It explains a lot about this issue from the standpoint of someone who has a great deal of experience with these engines.

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!!!

Really? I was worried when I saw those FS posts on CTZCC. Sad... Was looking forward to that build.

I did this to my Z at the beginning of the summer. Yes, its a 280z. Its not done, by any means, as I have to get the gaskets to fit... But one thing for you to consider is that the 240z had small metal clips that were welded(?) to the body on the BOTTOM area of the tail light surrounds. The surrounds slot into them and they keep them from waving around. Otherwise, your only attachment points are the top holes where the plastic rivets go... not a great amount of support using just them... I have not yet come up with a solution for my car, but I highly suggest finding one before yours hits the road (and before you paint it, if that's still possible).

Very easy. Get a correctly sized AN plug for one end, use the bottom hole for the return. To connect it to the fuel rail use an AN to NPT adaptor. I'd rather mine were installed on a fully AN system, but right now my return feed from the FPR uses an AN to barb fitting.

Just don't try to spray 280z style vinyl seats (the ones with the fabric center area) and expect good results...

I have a full set of revolution gauges in the dash of my 280z. Believe me, you will want more than just their speedo and tach...

I think the fact that he said he had to use bondo to patch up bullet holes adds to the value... and is somewhat disconcerting at the same time...

MSA sells the same flares without the cutouts. So the answer is yes.

What's that thing next to the car? I want one of those, is it for sale too or is it included with the car?

As far as I know, the KADET never existed, its just a moniker people like to apply when they turbo their KA motors. As far as I know though, the block is the same for both the single and dual cam models. I've heard people say things about also changing the timing chain or the pistons, but I'm not an expert.

Electrical. Connect the stock signal wire going to the old tach into the new one. Easy.

Thanks guys. Yes, I got their Gold coat and PC-9.