at-jefft

I put an old plug that was firing fine before it was replace in the #5 cylinder and still didn't get any combustion. I'll check for more vacuum leaks today.

Further info: I replaced the exhaust manifold with a header recently and obvioulsy had to take the intake off to replace the gasket. Could I have screwed anything up durring that process? No matter what I do to either carb, The front still fires and the back still doesn't. I'm thinking there could be something preventing fuel from going to the rear cylinders. I'm considering just rebuilding the carbs. but I wanna know for sure if it is a fuel delivery issue not something else. I did a little experiment and I think It tells me that the issue is fuel delivery. I sprayed carb cleaner in the throat of the bad carb, the rpms rose rapidly. Next, I unplugged the wires on the cylinders fed by the bad carb. sprayed carb cleaner again, and only a slight increase in rpms. Does that evidence support a fuel delivery problem? Thanks, Jeff

I put oil in the dampers and the rear piston falls smoothly when I put it to the top. I have since started from scratch to tune the carbs. I turned both idle adjusters to 1.5 turns from closed and the front still fires but not the back. I have loostened the balance screw and the fast idle screw as per the fsm. My new hypothesis is that the rear carb is not getting fuel at all. Although when I removed the float cover there was fuel in the bowl.

Actually I think that the front is kinda lean. I push up the piston very slightly (to test mixture) and it sounds like it is gonna stall.

Thanks sooo much. It was a tight squeeze but it worked. thanks again

Hey, I removed the 4 screws on top of the float chamber cover and thend tried to remove the cover and float but there is a piece of the carb body that prevents the cover from lifting off. How do I adjust the float level if I can't remove the float chamber cover and float arm? Thanks in advance, Jeff I can take some pics if need be, but I can't imagine nobody has delt with it before.

O and it idles at like 2-3k depending on how I adjust the rear carb. Also I can push up the piston on the rear carb and the rpms will change. That means that there are cylinders firing on that carb right? But when I pull the plug wires I don't hear rpm drops. Partially covering the rear carb with my hand makes the rpms climb.

Hey Everyone, My early 260z spent the winter in the garage. Now its 3 screw SU's are out of tune I think. I say that because the front 3 cylinders are firing normally, while the back 3 don't fire at all. I took off the air filters and started the engine. I noticed a hissing noise which seems to be coming from the rear carb's throat. Also I noticed the rear carb's piston is much higher than the front. The Engine surges from a near stall to and what I estimate from sound to be 3-4k. Are my carbs that badly out of tune or is there a vaccum leak( i checked most hoses with propane torch and didn't find anything) or what?

Hey, I'm in Elmhurst Can anyone help me adjust my SU's?

its an early 260z

Hey, I just finished a suspensions overhaul with new struts and springs. I finally got my Suspension techniques springs and after waiting months I called ST before installing them to make sure I knew which was the rear and which was the front springs. I installed the longer ones in the rear (as ST said) and when I dropped the car off the jack stands the rear is slammed. Lower than the front. I don't have the rear sway bar in will that raise the rear? like 4in? Thanks in advance, Jeff I will take pics tomorrow if it helps.

Got the spindle pins in today, I used the inner sleeve and ran the spindle pin through it and it got stuck in the middle. Turns out there was a high spot on both pins on one side of the notch for the lock bolt. I filed it off on both and they went right in.

ya, i put tons of anti-seize on it, I will try filing the strut tower today. O and ya locking bolt is out.

Hey, I have been trying to install the spindle pins. I bolted up the rear contol arm and bolted the strut tower to the car. I have tried putting the spindle pin in from both the front and the rear, both times it gets stuck with about 2 in to go. I am almost positive it is lined up correctly and have even taken the inner sleve of the far bushing out to make allignment sure it is alligned. Any ideas why it gets stuck? and how I can get it in properly? (I sanded the pin with 800 and there doesn't seem to be scratches when I pull the pin out)

hahahaha

Wow! What amazing work you have done. It looks great, and actually has flow to it. I like how the front is smooth and flowing and gradually gets sharper and more aggressive towards the rear.

E88's were L26's as well

on a related topic, any body know the torque specs of the manifold bolts, I can only find the specs for the manifold nuts in my fsm. Also anybody have a link to a source for new manifold bolts?

Nothing will every beat Black Goooold! hmmm... off to watch black gold again. (just to reaffirm it #1 position)

BF&I (Brute force and Ignorance) haha I supported the rotor with two stacks of wood, then laid a piece of wood over the hub and it took A LOT of force to break mine free. Get the heaviest sledge hammer you can find. O and obviously put some wood or something under the hub so it doesn't get damaged when it flys out.

Thanks for the suggestion. They are pretty expensive though.

Hello, I'm looking for (2) decent condition spindle pin lockbolts. I screwed up the threads when removing mine.

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two pretzels are walking down the street. One gets assaulted.

Haha, Great story.