at-jefft

From the Sticky in the S30 Section: Interior. In general terms there were two distinct interior designs. The 240 was one, and then the 260/280 was the other. The 240 didn’t have to many interior changes through its production. The 260 interior was totally revamped. The 280 retained the 260 interior. In ’76, the shoulder belt mount point went from the “C†pillar to the strut tower, (seat belt doesn’t dig into your neck as much on the ‘76+ cars). Also, in ’76, the AMP gauge became the Volt gauge with a fiber optic charge light. In ’77 the only significant interior changes were the font style of the gauges and the doors received a total redesign internally, which relocated the window crank and the door lock switch. The door changes in ’77, (which carried over to the ’78), made for much heavier doors, but the window regulators were much smoother and the actual door striker design was totally different than the earlier ’70-’76 doors. Doors for the ’77-’78 will not interchange with the earlier doors due to the different striker design. In ’78, the speedo received KMH in small blue print. Either in ’77 or ’78, under dash foot well lighting was also added. In ’77, the Z received larger capacity fuel tank which encroached on the spare tire well necessitating the space saver spare, (the 240, 260 and ’75-76 280 received a full size spare tire), and also the ’77-78 rear hatch area now has a raised false floor which was to accommodate the larger fuel tank and that little deflated spare. Depending on which manufacturing plant the ‘77/78 was manufactured in dictated how the that false floor in the hatch area finished out to the rear. Some were flat level all the way back, others kicked up at 45 degrees to the hatch. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123516

Thanks for clearing that up, I have wondered this for a while.

You might enjoy The scam baiter Those guys are funnier than anyone could ever imagine. They get those stupid scammers to do what ever they want. I did a few scambaits and I one scammer sent me his "ID" Notice the Edges

Hey, is the Tool still available?

ya, can I buy just the springs somewhere? Also when I lower the rear will the front come up a bit?

I put a piece of paper around the strut tube and measured the distance and got a diameter of 2.06" The struts went in pretty tight so I am guessing I have a 240z set up. Also I have not put in the rear springs and struts yet, the rear is sitting a little higher than the front. Will dropping the rear raise the front?

I hate to bring up an old thread but its a sticky so I am gonna have to. I just installed tokico Hp "blues" on my Early 260z (only have front done). I have the first 3 coils bound on the top of the springs. I have under an inch of travel with cut bumpstops. I am gonna call Tokico tomorrow. Would a set of 280z springs fix my problem? Should I ask for them to send me the fron 280z springs?

Duralast Makes the rubber ones for 4.99 each FYI I just ordered a set, I figure $10 is worth not having a high speed t/c rod failure

Something from here might work. http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/body_5eights.htm

I asked him through ebay "there was no 260zx made. Whats the VIN?" his response no vin if you don't believe they made a 260zx HAHAHAHA Nonbelievers don't get information I responded If I don't believe they made a 260zx can I still bid?

Very interested, could you go into depth on what grit and hand or power tool polish? I have some western turbines that would look awesome polished.

Im 17. got a early 260z Exactly double my age 1) I wanted a car I could work on myself (FI scares the hell out of me) 2) Wanted something with a fastback/classic look. Not some modern cookie cutter 3) Manual trans. 4)affordable. Insurance is an extra $18 a year haha.

Cool thanks, I have been looking to get some new rubber trim but the price is so expensive I can't justify it, This should work nicely though.

Hey, you remember the model of the Geo? Thanks, Jeff

My guess would be that the top two are for the compression rod, It doesn't look like that is the whole bushing though. What does that metal plate on the bottom look like? +1 for the lower control arm bushings

Did you forget the links?

DurrR they correct the suspension geometry for lowered cars. What does that have to do with the company being legitimate or not?

Hey, I am looking to buy some bump steer spacers for my s30 and I think I found a good deal at New Old Stock Motorsports. I want to know if anyone has ordered from them before. Also there looks to be the same site under a different name selling them at Action Speed Shop. I am worried that this could be a fake store or something because of the generic names and good price. Thanks, Jeff

Anybody know what they charge to ship one of those to the US?

Ya, i would buy an rear deck sill and probably a full door skin.

Dibs on the hood. Damn. The fact that he is okay gives me some serious confidence that s30s aren't death traps.

Anybody know the website of ARE?

Thicker in front. Last pic in first post shows the wrong way:thread

Did you blinkers work with the hazard switch engaged? or not at all. It sounds like the hazards don't work and the blinkers only work with the hazard switch engaged.(that is at least my problem,which sounds the same)

I have the same problem, keep us posted with the fix if you find it. PS. why do you call it a 71 260z? you must know that 260z's were only made in 74?