cygnusx1

Canon has so many models it spins your head. There is also a ton of feature overlap. You can't go wrong with either one. Look at sample photos from each and read about the materials and construction of each.

I wedged an oak hammer handle between the #1 crank lobe and the side of the block. The pan has to be off for this. Your washer may be in the pan anyhow. At least the engine isn't in the car already, on a positive note.

Don't spend big money on the brand new body. Get a 1 or 2 year old (NIB) DSLR body and spend the savings on good lenses. Lenses are forever. I vote Canon over Sony if you think you are going to get more serious into it. Besides, if you get out of it, the Canon lenses will be easier to unload.

Awesome. Startup after installing a DIY like MS, is certainly rewarding.

Nice concept.

Come on Tony!!! Let's rig up a tractor trailer to haul this thing behind a Z with an umbilical cord running the injectors!

The early ECU's work by charging and discharging caps through resistor and diode circuits...old school stuff that I am not versed in. You can talk to them all you want but you can't program them. What you can do is change the way electricity flows around the boards to ultimately change the way the injectors pulse. You make these changes with a soldering iron and resistors. I have not tried it but I am sure it works. It would be fun to try but ultimately a modern EFI system has way more flexibility and is simpler to add bells and whistles too.

Ah, I was under the impression that e-pumps were all dc speed controlled by some method (temp or rpm referenced). Yes, a constant speed pump makes compromises.

I don't get what you are saying? EDIT: Oh I see, you are saying that the info only applies to Bosch systems not the early Datsun systems. But oh, it does. These are solid state. Not much RAM ROM in here http://en.wikipedia....trol_System_Co.

Just the Nissan electro mechanical fast idle valve. 12volts on it when the car starts up. It holds a 1500 rpm idle when it's cold and slowly drops to about 950. No MS idle control at all. My throttle stop screw is all the way down. I can't close the 240SX TB any further unless I file the lock nut on the set screw. It may very well be breathing too much idle air from the wrong place (crank case?). When I have some more play time with the Z, I'll disconnect/plug the PCV and drive it.

LOL yes I usually run Mobile 1 but I have some squashed dinosaurs in it now. Bored 0.020" over. My top two rings are gapped to 0.017" and piston clearance was set to 0.003" at the skirts. All ring gaps 180 staggered, not over the pin ends. Oil control spreader visually confirmed, not overlapped during assembly. It's a bit "gappier" than the FSM calls for but I do run 16-18 pounds of boost and occasional destructive track days. Maybe that's just it. 240 miles on it now and I "think" the smoke is a little less. I am sure my turbo is sealed up good now.

How good is the flow on those MSA e-pumps? Making custom impellers may approach the cost of an e-pump for those that already run e-fans. http://www.thezstore...ZS/PROD/16-7025

Before everyone goes out to buy NPG have a read here too. I like to here both sides of a story. Not saying NPG is good or not. Just duing my due diligence. http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=945513

Here. Have an L-Jet Lobotmy! Sorry, it's disorganized, and some info has been lost in space, but it's decipherable. L-Jet Lobotamy.zip

Hey do I get a follow-up award with this one? http://forums.hybrid...post__p__896858 Post#14

Yes, I cleaned it all up and put it back in with locktite on the philip screws. I noticed something that I thought was strange today. I was charging the A/C so I had the compressor outlet pipe off for access. With the engine at idle I covered up the inlet to the intercooler with my hand, I felt no vacuum! I tried again and held my hand there completely sealing it off for about 25 seconds. No vacuum. I cracked the throttle a tiny bit and it nearly sucked my hand into the intercooler. Repeated this test but held my hand over the intake side of the "Cold Fast Idle vane valve thing". Vacuum built up pretty strongly there in 4 or 5 seconds. The engine was hot. So is my car breathing through the fast idle circuits, or the PCV circuits at idle, instead of the throttle plate? Normal or not? I wonder if my car takes too much air from the PCV circuits BECAUSE I have my throttle body pinched down to get a proper idle, due to air sneaking in from somewhere else? This could explain "dirty" air from the crank case getting into the intake plenum when the throttle is closed. Especially on heavy decel. Follow me? Am I way out of the ball park here? I know it's easy to test. I'll do it tomorrow...also going to put in another new PCV valve. The PCV valve for the turbo application has three positions right? Sealed under high vacuum, sealed under boost, and open during light cruise. EDIT: Forgot that the BOV was probably cracked open which is why I had no vacuum in the intercooler intake. DOH!

The Fidanza flywheels may have a QC or MFG issue. All of the tap holes are tapped only about 1/2 way down. It seems that Fidanza does not use a "bottom tap". I ran into the issue on mine. As soon as the bolt hits the ends of the threads, it rips the four or five existing threads out of the aluminum. The bolts feel like they are bottoming but they are probably not. Run a bottom tap with a fluid, into all the holes and you'll get much better results. I just ground the tapered section off of one of my taps to make a bottom tap.

OK then I'll stop worrying about it then and get some more miles on it. Then I'll start flogging it around to scare out any bugs. It only smokes when I let off for a long coast. I guess I just shouldn't let off. Otherwise, it runs like a champ, except that it starts leaning out, during low load cells, as the engine bay gets hot. I don't think it's pulsewidth dropping off. I will datalog it tomorrow. I might need to bite the bullet and circulate the fuel rail.

Nope. Still smokes pretty good on heavy decel. I am losing my garage for a few weeks starting next week, as I work on a turbo swap for someone, so I'll just have to let it be for now. I may sneak in another compression test. This time I'll do a wet/dry test, and I'll yank that valve cover off that I "glued" on with Permatex2. I'll see if I can't tell if any of the valve seals lifted , and check torque/lash on the head again. If we can string together some decent weather, I'll put more seat time on it too. The turbo spools nicely now though! Is it possible that even though the dry compression numbers are all right on spec, that the oil control rings aren't controlling the oil?

Wow great deal and nice wheel. That's got to be worth at least $14 J/K

My shield is wedged in place as well. No rattles. My parents house is sided with asbestos shingles. I need to cut a hole through it for a dryer hose in a couple of days. I think I'll just hold my breath.

Open loop would be non-ego feedback. In other words, the O2 sensor signal value is not used to modify the pulsewidth (VE numbers) while running. Closed loop is when the O2 signal has authority to modify the pulsewidth, in order to maintain your AFR table settings. If it's in closed loop (EGO control enabled), and your AFR table is calling for 10:1 AFR, then no matter where you try to move your VE values, the ECU will fight you and try to maintain 10:1. This will vary depending on the authority given to the O2 signal.

Try lowering the ReqFuel. Do you have it in closed loop or open loop mode?

The balancing mark is a lot shallower than it looks in the photo. I am almost positive the thread pitch is 28 tpi. Don't have a pitch gauge. I used a 1/4-28rh tap. The turbine wheel is inconel.

Fresh from China! Back to the garage...but the left handed M6 nut was not specified. My old shaft is a 6mm RHT. More waiting for a nut. ..M6L, or is it 1/4-28...left hand?