cygnusx1

Why use 13" long head bolts??? Just bolt the chain links right to the deck with some 1.5" short hex bolts and a few washers.

Looks right. The leak is not in the cable. It's in the speedo pinion. Slide it out from the trans and change the seal and the o-ring. O-ring is visible here. Seal is down inside.

One is an oil seal and one is an o-ring. You need to take the speedo pinion apart to change the seal. Punch out the tiny split pin, slide the gear and shaft out, and pull the old oil seal out, and shove the new oil seal in. Make sure you put the seal in facing the right way. I used a drill bit larger than the shaft to remove the old seal. By hand, put the bit into the housing as if to drill it out. Twist it by hand so that it bites into the old seal. When it has a good bite, draw it out.

lol Thanks anyhow

SCRATCH....Local autoparts has one!!! Thanks anyhow.

Building a customers turbo swap and when I fired up the fuel pump, fuel came oozing out from the crimp around the regulator. Must be a busted diaphram or something. Anyhow, I NEED one. Thanks!!

Pretty much all the competitive racers run an air dam, with vent tubes, routed to hoods over the rotors. If they run a solid air dam, then they grab the air from another spot. The holes alone are probably not doing much at all except stuffing air under the car where it doesn't belong.

Like Tony says, fuel is injected on a time-pressure meter. When it expands from heat, there is less of it getting to the cylinders. I should have figured that out myself since I used to design time-pressure filling equipment for hot liquids. I used volumetric designs for stuff that was slightly variable in density, and when fill volume was more critical than mass.

I am building a turbo 77 and just installed a reman gear reduction ZXT starter, and got the "click" no crank effect. I pulled the signal wire off the blade connector on the solenoid and get 12V with the ignition key in start. However, when I reconnect the spade connector and check voltage during "start", it can only muster up about 8.8V. So I took apart the ignition relay and cleaned the contacts....still no better than 9V. I replaced the frontmost/left fusible link and then I was up to 9.2V...still not enough. Then I jumped out the ignition switch with a jumper wire....9.5V and still nothing but a click. I traced all the wires with my meter and got no resistance (at low current of course). Then I took my mongo screwdriver and jumped the 12V post on the solenoid to the signal spade on the solenoid....a big spark and then a "CLICK"...still no starter spin. FU...the reman starter is heading back to the auto parts store. I installed the old, '77 original starter temporarily, and it cranks great, every time! Not sure about this but I think either Nissan under-wired the start circuit, compounded with years of corrosion; or newer solenoids require more power than the old ones...or both.

Great time to hit up Matt Cramer! ring-ring.... Holyrollerdyno was the outfit. They went to a better place. http://holyrollerdyn...me/Welcome.html

In the interest of being historical.... Here is the kit I used to rebuild my T3/TO4B with the factory hot side and core. D&W Inc. 315-253-2324 marketing@dwdiesel.com KIT OVERHAUL GARRETT TA31 - $66.47 D&W was very helpful and pulled out dusty books to find the OEM rebuild kit part numbers in order to get the right part.

Very interesting Tony. I used to run a RRFPR with the stock turbo injectors, ramped to 65psi of fuel pressure on 14psi of boost. It was very repeatable. I used to check it with a bike pump on the regulator with a gauge, while watching the fuel pressure gauge. On a hot day in Syracuse, at the convention, I pumped out 265 RWHP with the stock motor and ECCS in place. However, I have no clue (lol) looking back, if the AFR's were anywhere near OK. It ran great, hit Watkins Glen International, and drove us home with the A/C on. Nowadays, I have more info and can see the fine detail of what goes on behind the scene thanks to Megasquirt. I have my tune really close and rarely see my EGO corrections go much over +/- 5%. However, when the system gets hot, you can see the EGO corrections pinning in the +20% realm (only at idle and very low revs), where I limited WBO2 authority. Therefore, I know I am dealing with a hot AND fuel variable condition. I will install the new regulator anyhow, and play with the pressures a bit...experimentation and learning. I may end up sending the injectors out to get blueprinted again, for shits and grins. Back when I had the rail dead-headed, I had a nice cool fuel tank. I had the regulator over on the passenger fuel rail where the fuel came up, and went back to the tank with minimal heat exposure. Now, I recirculate the fuel, so it stays OK for a longer period, but eventually still gets into the "leanies" as the tank heats up. I am a sucker for blue anodized stuff, but right now, I can't find to many spare yen hanging around. Fall and Winter are near. Nothing like the feel of a turbo Z, in the cool air. I still think my system would like some additional fuel pressure so I will give it a try. I always learn the hard way.

So the "wrong" 15/16" masters have mounting bolts lined up horizonatally? Is that the problem? Maybe there is a way to adapt them, adapt the booster, or make and adapter plate and an extended the push rod... I never thought about it much but it seems like it's time to start thinking. How about going with a Wilwood master, considering it an upgrade?

That sucks.

Bad alternator diode is a fairly common "snake in the grass" type of problem..

I am thinking about installing a new FPR to run a little more fuel pressure than the factory ZXT regulator does. Back when I ran the stock ZXT injectors, I ramped up (RRFPR) to 65psi of fuel pressure on boost to keep the AFR's in check. Now I have 440cc injectors and run stock pressures. I am thinking that a higher base pressure will do two things. It will keep the fuel further away from vaporizing point, and it may improve the atomization through the nozzle. Of course I will need to adjust the fuel map in Megasquirt to compensate. I am thinking 45-50 psi. Thoughts?

Here are Rock Auto options that MIGHT work? These are for the 1984 720 truck 2.4L 2389cc L4 2BBL. !! NOT SURE IF THEY WORK ON ZX MASTERS !! They look similar. Please confirm if they work for you. DORMAN Part # TM351674 {#46011C7025} RAYBESTOS Part # MK1674

This looks the same but no guarantees... http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/84/nissan/720/brake_master_cylinder/brake_master_cylinder_repair_kit.html?3593=256594

Yes, my kit seems to be for 15/16". I measured them again with my caliper and all the pistons and seals are correct.

I can take some later.

Yep, still have a 77 motor. Needs a few minor parts...alternator, starter, water pump, heater hose fitting in the head. It has 150k miles on it. I confirmed with the previous owner. The engine was driven to my house from 45 minutes away and I drove it around before I pulled it out. Seemed fine. The previous owner said the compression numbers were fine. It was pulled for a turbo swap.

The rebuild kit arrived from Rockauto and I measured the pistons. One of them measures 15/16" ad the other measures 7/8". I don't have mine apart but the numbers seem right on this rebuild kit.

You are better off with the "look" but not the airflow. Put a flat black false panel behind the grill and no one will know any different.