cygnusx1

With the Nissan and the GM ones that I am familiar with, there is no polarity needed.

LOL. It's running great. Been tuning with VE Analyze Live, with a less econo AFR map, and it really likes the extra fuel. My leanest in cruise is around 14.2. My engine REALLY hates to get lean for some reason. It just runs and sounds so much healthier when it's eating 13.0 - 13.8's. AE tuning took a while but it's good enough now. I will post a latest .msq very soon. I got the EGO control working very well by experimenting with transport delays until corrections stopped oscillating. I held the RPMS to about 2500 and watched EGO control swing back and forth. Starting from 0, I increased the transport delays until the swinging slowed, and then it finally locked on a steady correction.

Might want to hit up Evilc, Clive. He has a pretty similar setup, and at his first track day with the EVILZ, I got plenty of video of him behind a grinder, with his head in the rear wheel wells. I don't doubt your knowledge Mike. I just was hoping you hadn't lost sight for a second, which can happen with such an in depth project. Some footage of Clive grinding away at WGI.

What size tires, wheel offsets, wheel width, camber plates? Did you roll the fender lips? There is more to this than just springs/height. Don't choose springs/height to fix a clearance issue. That's asking for trouble directly.

Me thinks he was smoking something other than rubber... Does it snow in texis this time of year?

I have the Direzza Star Spec's on one of my Z's. I like them a lot. Sticky, quiet, predictable, and good steering feel. Oddly enough I have the KDW's on my other Z. I don't like them as much as the Direzza.

Sounds like if it burns down due to overloaded feed wiring, you got a case. I think it will handle the current though. They can also snake a new conduit if they had enough motivation.

I chose yellow because it looks period/euro and racy at the same time.

Yellow headlights. Because race car.

My first car was British racing green with gold accents and a butterscotch interior. I have always loved green and gold. It makes the plating look fantastic. I cant wait to see it!

I demo'd a bunch of them for our prototype lab. Cool tech, but pretty old and in need of big technology step right now. It's kind of the "same old thing" now.

It's my "go to" movie when the car guys (mates) get together for sure.

Change took place sometime in late 1976 or 77. 1977 is different than my 4/76. 72 is different than both. The 260Z is probably like the early 280Z.

RB-R

Hehe, close to starting a new list. That's how it goes though. Debugging next. Good luck and awaiting the reports! Hope she lives up to her name.

Pics way too small. Don't worry, wires can always be soldered, re-ran, or taken away. It's not the end of the world. You will be doing plenty of guessing right and guessing wrong all the way along.

I did a yarn test, and it pretty much lay flat over the screen at speed. When I added the spoilers in front of the screen, the yarn stood right up. The car definitely likes the vents. I don't know how effective they are but they certainly don't hurt.

Side feed injectors are the ultimate solution. Maybe it's time for someone to mill out an L rail for side feeds? Hmm I need to investigate.

A full tank sure is the biggest heat sink in the car. Just don't get it too hot. Cooling it off takes a lot of energy too. I tend to keep the tank 1/2 and up. I kind of like the way it settles the back end of the car. Never thought about a fuel to air cooler before. I don't think I'll need one with my usage of the car, but I'll put it into my mental bag of tricks just in case. I will consider insulating the fuel lines now. Before, the dead headed rail got so hot that insulating it was pissing in the wind. Now, with the rail circulated, even after a long drive on the back roads, it's only warm to the touch. This is due to all the fuel flow stealing the energy. Insulating it NOW makes sense.

Let me put it this way, unbolt the relays from the body, unbolt the fuse block from the body, any wires that keep you from pulling the harness out on the passengers side, CUT THEM. You don't need those anyway. They are pretty much power wires for other circuits that happen to tie into the fuse link box. Look at the cover and it tells you what they are for.

I always ran a Marren fuel damper right at the end of the dead headed fuel rail, to try to soak up some oscillations, but the root cause was still heat in the fuel. I ran the return line today, and left the fuel damper in the return line right after the fuel rail. HUGE difference, in not only idle, but the way the car drives on light throttle and cruise. My EGO is bottoming out to stay on the AFRs now. Fuel delivery just got much better. Idle 13:1 rock steady hot or not. Now I need to keep an eye on my tank temps. I'll use my IR thermometer to get some quick data. I think I'll go edit the subject line if I can.

You you should be able to get to 300++ rwhp with appropriate tuning. The factory fuel pressure regulator is more than adequate. Pacesetter makes a turbo exhaust manifold? Also make sure you have enough fuel pump and flow for your goal. Turning up the boost is easy with a manual boost controller or a fancy electronic boost controller. Just because it's set to 10psi doesn't mean it cant be adjusted to higher or lower. You just need to make sure you add the right amount of fuel for tha amount of air. Get a wideband O2 sensor hooked up to that Megasquirt and learn about tuning fuel and timing maps.

Yes I know delta is more informative, but I am just filling in MS data, and messing with the IAT based fuel corrections. I am not studying efficiencies of components in my system because I have no intentions of changing anything major regardless of how good or bad. The car feels really fast as is. I took note of IAT while trying to bandaid a vapor lock issue with the IAT/ fuel map. Just a tuning experiment that worked, but didn't. Next step is to un-deadhead my fuel rail to keep it from getting hot and leaning out. I suspected I was getting some heat related fuel delivery issues so I data-logged it. After a drive on a hot day, you can let my car idle with the hood shut and watch the idle go from 13:1 to 15:1 to 17:1 and then barely be able to idle anymore. Funny thing is that the pulsewidths never changed, and the fuel pressure didn't either. What is happening, is that either the injectors are getting too hot and sticking, OR the fuel is changing states in the injectors or rail. It effects the mixtures not only at idle either. What I did with the IAT fuel correction was add add fuel when the IAT got over say 110F and then ramp it up gradually. It worked, but it took power away from the top end as the air got hot from boost. Then I tried to ramp the temp up around 100F and then back down once past around 115F. That led to a strange power curve in the motor. SO I am going to attack what i think is the root cause; heat at the fuel rail and injectors. I was able to get EGO Correction to bandaid it as well, and it does a pretty good job, once you get the proper transport delays in place. My subject line led you to believe this was going down a turbo/intercooler efficiency route. My bad. I should have been more specific as to why I was asking. Thanks anyhow.

Fact of the matter is that it doesn't matter what hits the car or how it hits your car. It's how your body hits your own car that counts. Who looks around the intersection before proceeding, after a red light turns green? Who looks at the driver of the other passing and nearby vehicles to see their current attention level? Who immediately plans an escape path when they notice an erratic move. Reaching for the horn seems to be the only defensive driving technique taught around here.

Just curious as to what kind of IAT you are seeing under WOT boost. I am seeing spikes to about 118F at 12psi in the datalogs. This was with about an 80F ambient and no cold air intake.