cygnusx1

How far back does your Z history and experience go? How many have you had? Where did you get them, what was done to them, and what happened to them? Stories, details, experiences... I will tell my Z story later...it's late and I'm tired...someone else start.

If you tighten it enough to break it, the car wont run and you are doing something wrong. You probably need to tighten it less than a full turn MAXIMUM. I tighten it carefully with the engine at idle and get it to idle as smooth as possible. Set the idle air screw to center before you try this. Then you can use the idle air screw to fine tune it.

Yeah. I try to ignore rust. I don't have the wherewithall to chase it around anymore. When mine rusts again, I plan on having my piggybank full enough to just go buy one that is already finished. Yours definitely looks fixable with a lot of drive and passion. I hope you have the strength to continue or the wallet to go look in the sunbelt for another car. It is a typical example of the Z cars that are available here in the Northeast. What a shame. You have a welder and if you are not in love with the car, patch it up roughly, build it up as a beater/driver with as little cash as you can, and use it as a fun car. Don't put all the fancy flashy parts on it. Re-use the parts you have making it safe with new bushings, joints, good stock brakes, and drive it until you can afford to move on to a better one. Just because a car is ugly or rough does not make it any less fun to beat on. Good stock brakes,kyb shocks, tokico springs, decent tires, 1 seat, 1 harness you have a worry free track car.

You can, and it is common, build a collection reservoir for the MAP sensor to read from. Run a hose from each intake runner to a cannister and then connect the cannister to the MS sensor. This should give your sensor a fairly stable read on MAP. http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=26050

I stand corrected, if Snopes did their homework and proved it true it must be true. In that case...DAYUM!!! OUCH!

It's got to be a photochop. Nobody looks really panicky, even the boy seems OK. There would certainly be blood. NO WAY a fork is going in so cleanly so as not to damage any of the surrounding soft tissue enough to bleed. Secondly, who stops, goes to grab a camera in this situation. Use your heads. (not the way shown in the photo)

No matter what happened here guys I don't think you can get that much wear in an hour or two unless the metal was soft to begin with. IMHO.

I like that look. I would love to see it in an Army Green like an old Army Jeep.

Do a brinell hardness test on it for kicks. It's ruined anyway. Or just punch it with a spring punch to see if it dents. Compare it to another cam.

Did the new head gasket block any oil passages?

Ouch!! Damn you must be at the end of your rope. I've seen that happen with a clogged spray bar. Best option would be to convert to internal oiler at this point. What's the history on this motor?

I keep coming back here with my fingers crossed. Don't let us down! Give us some good news!

http://www.hypno-toad.com/index.php I enjoyed it.

Datsuns in films. http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles_make-Datsun.html?PHPSESSID=3c8938837601c45093ef845d8b0eb586

It is going to take some experimentation and some luck to get it not too lean in some areas and not to rich in other areas. If you don't want to get a standalone, you will need an FMU or RRFPR to get it closer to correct. I ran my stock (270cc) injectors from Factory-psi@idle to 65psi@15boost. It made excellent power and ran great.

Yeah I think he was there hiking with his GF or wife and started ignoring her when he saw all the Z's. PS. (inside joke) I really wish I had a green ticket or blue ticket or whatever, in my pocket to sell to that yuppie guy that was asking where he could buy green tickets. I could have sold it to him for like $50 and then we could have officially donned me the first PRIC of the PRICZ club.

Hi there! Welcome. Search for hood alignment in the search function. We have some REALLY good info and links to other sites with the exacting details. Take off your coat, sit down, and read for a while! I believe it involves adjusting fenders too.

Then reduce the req-fuel. That will lean the entire table. Think of the Req_Fuel number as your RICH-LEAN knob.

Yeah but I think it would be easier to just enter each number manually in the table and then look at the tuning 3D version to smooth it out. Anyhow, I will send you my VE vex file later tonight but I think you would be done manually by the time you get my vex table. BTW the table generator should work for VE. What is your estimated Req-Fuel? just enter the right input and the chart will be fine. Rough guess..... 2800cc idle 800 @ 20kpa 160ft-lb @ 4500 @100kpa 160hp @ 5600 @100kpa redline 7000 @ 100kpa

As wizardblack said, it's not so much the location of the sensor as it is the way you program it to deal with the numbers. Ideally, you want to measure the air temperature at the intake valve. In practicality, you measure the air in a more convenient location and interpolate with the programming. Stay away from areas that experience fluctuating pressure changes. ie. the throttle plate. An open element sensor will follow actual air temp more closely through temp transistions. If the car runs poorly at one temp or another, you are better off reprograming your corrections curve. Don't fish around for another sensor location until you have tried the recurve.

just use my table up to the 100kpa mark. Spread it out over your cells. Then tweak your req_fuel number until my VE map works to keep you idling and reving.

actually the values in the table are kpa/s NOT kpa. That's a big difference. kpa/s is the RATE at which you open the throttle. Boost has no effect on these numbers. Even you can make your MAP change 300kpa/s if you snap it open fast enough. You are confusing the two. My numbers should roughly work for you regardless of boost ot not. Any deviation between mine and yours would be due to injector specs or dynamic air flow differences in the throttle body. Go to the accel table in tuning, snap the throttle open as fast as you can and see how much kpa/s you can generate in datalog or just watching the bar in the graph that goes to 200kpa/s

bubbleguinea, that is the nicest 2+2 Z. I normally dont like the looks of them but yours seems to work. I dont mean this in a bad way but you car reminds me so much of a Daschund. It should be nicknamed the Dachshund-Z. The color, the extra length, the lowered stance.... LOL No offense, this is what reminds me of your Z. Wheels look great by the way!

????? ZORB -Z's of the rust belt. QSZCC - Quad state Z car club "q-zac" PA, NY, NJ, CT NAZC - Northern Atlantic Z Club...

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