cygnusx1

Umm. I thought that we should...umm...quite maybe, even it's possible to...education the people of Americans to better to read and....um...even think...like better than we can. I mean that is personally my own opinion. Also.

Yes the riming should advance as you rev it. You might have a bad distributor or bad CAS inside the dist. Before you incriminate them, check the wires from the dist to the ECU with an OHM meter. Try another distributor if you have access to one.

First, the question: Suppose a blowing fuse in the brake light circuit is cause by a chewed wire that is grounding out intermittently. Can the blowing fuse for the brakes/hazard cause the firmware to corrupt or overheat the VB921? (voltage correction for dwell) My thoughts are that if the voltage drops out low due to a short in another circuit, this might make MSII increase the dwell to compensate. If it spiked the dwell setting to comp for the voltage drop, it could overheat the VB921 and cause the spark to go haywire until it cooled off. My Situation: Ok since DIY re-did my firmware for me, I have not had anymore problems...except for the hole in the headgasket. That's another story. Anyway, when we had the QuadState Z meet here in NY, my Z blew the fuse that feeds the brake lights and the hazard circuit. I scoped the fuse block for a ground and it came up clean. I dropped in another 20A glass fuse and the car drove fine for the next 100 miles or so. Yesterday, I went to take a spin in the Z before I pull the head off, and I got stuck. It was running fine and I felt a sudden split second power drop and then I saw tons of black/gray smoke out the back and the engine quit. I managed to roll almost all the way home and came to a stop on an uphill section about 200 yards from my driveway. I went to put on the hazards and they didn't work. I guessed that the fuse blew again...I was right. I tried cranking the motor and the fuel pump was on which means the MSII was also on. During cranking, the Tach needle was jumping all over the place but I was not getting ignition. We pushed the car up the hill for a few minutes. After about 10 minutes, it fired up and I drove it home. I reloaded the map just for peace of mind. The car runs fine in the garage and I put in another 20A fuse for the hazard/brakes. The fuse is holding up fine, for now. However, the MSII will not power up if connected to the laptop with megatune software closed. If I run megatune, the car starts. If I connect to Megaview, the car starts. If I connect to nothing, the car starts. If it's connected to the laptop with only Windows XP, the car won't start. I suspect the firmware needs reloading again due to the wierd boot pattern. I designed a DEDICATED 10g feed from the battery to the MSII and the fuel/ign system, and a DEDICATED 10g ground to the battery from the MSII and the fuel/ign system. The power circuits are solid. Confession: I do not have a power conditioner for MSII yet. (on order)

That whole thing was staged on a dyno. There is no way that was real. The government is trying to pull a hoax on us. It sounds really nice.

Start thinking about the fact that maybe you have the wrong part. You might have the kit for an S30. I think bjhines means threads on the T/C rod, not on hybridz...although both apply. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125072 This is an S30 and the nut points to the rear of the car. Opposite your car.

I will admit, it's confusing at first but spend some time reading the product descriptions at ANplumbing.com and you will learn what works with what, and what does what. http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

I have one in my garage and one in my car, both ABC. We were trained on using them at work, as part of a safety course. They made us put out a fire. I also keep one between the kitchen and the rest of the house.

The engines are the same for the most part. The emmisions system was different, door latches and doors are different, hood has vents in 77, 49 state 76 has no catalytic converters or O2 sensors and no EGR but the 77 does, some pretty significant wiring is different, there are differences in the HVAC system, the bumpers are quite different, 77 has a spot welded "skirt" on the rear valence but the 76 has a "clean" rear valence, the rear hatch area is different inside, different spare tires....the actual horsepower of the engines is relatively the same. The 76 is much more related to the 260Z bodywise. ...off the top of my head. -Dave

Something is wrong. There should be enough thread that you dont need to compress the bushings before you start the nut. Also, it is common knowledge on this site that you should retain the stock rubber bushing on the back side of the TC bucket and a poly on the front side for the S30's. This factoid may apply to the ZX also....anyone? You also didn't mention which kit you have. Poly or aluminum?

Oh I forgot to mention FedEx lost my order from MSA for the head gasket job I need to do. So while I wait for those parts AGAIN, I figured I would change the pads/rotors this afternoon on the WRX but...FedEx also lost the pads!!!! ARGH. ...another Rolling Rock.

I get half a day every other friday by making up hours at work. Today was my day. I jump out of the corporate cube and into the WRX. I take the longer way towards my commute to fill up the tank in NJ for "cheap gas". I am all psyched for the weekend and decide to go mellow with the ride home music. I pop in Incubus for some feel good stuff instead of the usual godsmack and tool. Tank is full life is good lets go home. My commute is about 15minutes of small town roads, 10 minutes of parkway, and 15 more minutes of country roads. I pull out of the gas station and turn onto main street through the little town to pick up the way home. Shades on, Incubus on, windows down, all of a sudden some guy in a minivan pulls out of a spot on the other side of the street full on into a u-turn in front of me. Too late for brakes I spool the WRX and squeeze past his nose for a clean getaway. OK, come to a green light wher I have to make a left, here comes the dude in the minivan looking down at his passengers seat heading for my ass. I have my brake lights on, my left blinker on and I cant go anywhere. At the last second he swerves and jams on the brakes and clumsily goes around me. Whew close! OK I get out onto the main county road an see a nice yellow 350Z up ahead, but he is stuck behind an SUV that is doing about 25 and swerving in a 40 with no passing zone. I follow along in disbelief of the poor driving of the SUV untill we get a clear passing zone. I flash the 350Z and we both take off for a perfect pass on the damn SUV. Cool. Chilling to Incubus again! The 350 and I have a nice cruise pace going but I have to break off for another left so I flash and wave him off and make my left when BRAKES! A BMW X5 going about 15mph and swerving has the traffic all bunched up again. This time I am already getting pissed from thinking about the volume of incompetent inconsiderate drivers out here, I wait for a straight and here come 6500rpm's and BAM I pass the two slow trucks in front of me cleanly. Nice, back to Incubus and fresh air driving. I hit the parkway there is nobody on it at this time of day so I merge on nice and pick up a nice pace of about 70 in the right lane. Two cars ahead left lane, and right lane matching speeds at about 50, I have no where to go so I brake, signal and pull into the left lane. I wait and wait and wait, finally the guy decides to pass and even moves over for me to go past him and resume my cruise. OK slight burning up inside but Incubus is keeping me cool. I get to the top of the parkway where it splits into three lanes and then two lanes go left and two go right. I am in the center lane passing a Honda SUV going to go into the right split. I am even with the SUV and I see headlights. Yes, I see two honda DRL's pointing at me coming AT ME in my lane up from the right split, left lane. A lady going Southbound in the Northbound lanes. WTF. I jam on the brakes and try to get to the right shoulder but the SUV is locking me in, I brake harder and just slip in the right lane and the oncoming car, pulls a three lane U-turn across a 55mph parkway into the left split! At this point I am just doubting the future of humanity and still have 15 minutes to go. I get on the country roads and of course com up on a minivan doing 1/2 the speed limit and braking for every curve and oncoming car. I bite my toungue and follow it for 5 miles. Finally two lanes and I pass it. Make a left and BAM another old american sedan doing 1/2 the speed limit riding the brakes going from 20mph to 30 to 15 all over the yellow lines and white line. At one point he nearly stops so I lay into the horn. he honks back and resumes driving like a moron. No where to pass I bite my tongue and follow this ass for 10 long minutes all the way past my house. Rolling Rocks for lunch!!!!! I have and old video camera and I swear I am going to mount it in my car to tape this crap. You would NOT believe how much footage of stupidity I am going to get. This is how we can fight back. mount your camcorders now and start filming.

Very nice. I didn't think of that when I was doing mine...what beer were you drinking. Maybe I need to switch.

Well maybe this is why I blew out the head gasket at cylinder #5 during agressive tuning! Viola! I used to run with one of these motors. Man I loved this motor: Look at the coolant runner over the intake...this motor design is from the stone age too. Hemi, dual cam, sodium valves, double row chain.......

I had a full 2.5" exhaust, flange, downpipe, O2 bung, EGR bung, flange at the bottom of the downpipe, mandrel bent, welded and installed for $300 in Aluminized Steel. I supplied the $100 stainless Magnaflow for the end of it and they welded it on and made al the brackets and hangers. This was bout four years ago at "Gallon Measure" custom exhaust shop here in NY. There is NO rust on it yet. (garaged and rarely sees rain). $300 for a simple downpipe is silly...if it was inconel...it would still be silly.

That's funny, I just ordered studs for the head and exhaust manifold this week for these reasons. thanks.

Slight hi-jack but I think it's relevant. What is the proper way to go about removing/installing valve seats from a head? Does it involve heating, or just pressing? How would one go about pressing, or is there a special puller that comes in from the combustion chamber side? What kinds of interferences are expected for a proper fit? 0.005" or so? Just curious.

I am going to attempt the nearly impossible. I bought the Z32 trans swap from Austin, and it has an electric speedo sender. I have a few choices to make. 1)Put in an aftermarket electric speedo. ($200+) 2)Put in the electric to mechanical converter box ($300) OUCH! 3)Try to install a mechanical sender in the Z32 trans (not sure how difficult or if it's possible) 4)Stick the electronic guts from a Z32 speedo behind the S30 Speedo. I really want to keep the factory look and function of the stock speedo with the indicator lights and odometer but in order to squeeze the guts of the Z32 speedo, I will lose the odometer function but may be able to retain the indicators. I found out that the electronics from the Z32 speedo are pretty compact and might be pretty easy to mount behind the S30 face. With some electronic calibration, this might work well. here is some Z32 speedo info: http://tech.aus300zx.com/idial_install/recalibration.pdf

Ummm..$299! No. Sorry Seller. No O2 Bung either. Have a reputable exhuast shop make up an entire system for you and it will only cost a little more than that one part.

Don't for a second think he is doing something wrong. It's human nature. It's societys rules and morals you need to explain, demonstrate, and teach. My son is almost 8months old now. I will bookmark this thread. LOL.

I would spray it down with one of the lubriplate spray products. Or search for tool and die oils. They are sprayed down with oil for storage. Don't use any silicones. http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Sprays.htm

If you have the trans, open it and count the teeth. It's easy.

When my brother was about 2 years old we went to the zoo and he threw a branch at one of the gorillas. The gorilla picked it up and threw it back at about 80mph. It whistled over our heads! It's one of the funniest memories I have of being five years old. That would qualify as an animal using a weapon. No?

The added bondo weight also has the "free" side effect of lowering the rear. It now handles like a 911 with the rear weight bias. In all fairness....we all did some stupid stuff while learning to work on cars...I never did anything that silly though.

With that full carbon fiber interior it must have lost at least (-50) pounds. Here's the kicker though, "adjustable dampering"!!

Since it looks like the lower bolt is not there, that bracket is doing nothing anyway. I think it's supposed to support the lower part of the bell housing to the block. Don't overtighten the pan bolts. It will make a warped mess out of the oil pan flange. Instead, take it off, put on a new gasket and use some Permatex #2 on both sides of the gasket. Torque 1/2 spec. After 12 hours, torque to spec. No more leaks!