cygnusx1

The wrong settings in the ignition setup can blow it up. Ask Big-Phil. He even has a video of him replacing it.

I don't know, I look at it with an open mind an try not to compare it to what it looks like or what it doesn't. It just looks decent to me. I think the nose is a little bit squished but other than that I like how they handled the major body lines.

I bring my Z to Putnam Tire in Cold Spring, NY. The guy is super cool about hot rods and custom cars. He just about inspects my car with white gloves on! Expect no less.

My coolant fan comes on at about 195 but I use a separate fan controller. Will be happy with 300HP? That's impossible since you will most likely exceed that number by far. Congrats, wait 'til you get it tuned and then post a picture of the giant grin on your face!

I think Nissan finally got it right after many years of missing the mark. Not 100% perfect like the S30 but pretty nice. I wish that thing came rear wheel drive or all wheel drive. It needs some larger wheels, a little drop and a little bit of power package to push it up over 340HP...

Yeah go by the timing plate ont eh front of the engine. Eyeball it.

OK wheres the video of it running? I know it's coming soon!

The maps look fine to start with. During cranking, watch the timing light AND the Trigger Offset window at the same time. Adjust the trigger offset number until they are as close as you can tell. My trigger offset ended up being (negative) -66.

Hotter t-stat helps because hot water in the radiator transfers it's heat away more quickly. ...I think....there is a thread here somewhere.

Do you have a timing light? before you even get it fired, you should make the timing light on the crank pulley match the MS-II readout during cranking. If you don't do that first, you are juggling too many variables at once and it will be like planning on hitting the lotto. 1)Confirm Timing. with a light and the trigger offset. (while cranking) disconnect the injectors or fuel pump. 2) Set the ignition MAP to 15BTDC all the way across (tweak later) 3) Set your injection to two squirts alternating or simultaneous 4) Enter an estimated VE for the idle areas of the map... 30 to 50 range my guess. 5) Turn off ALL or your enrichments AE,ASE, Warmup wizard....... 6) Go to the Required Fuel window and crank the key while going up and down with the Required Fuel number until it idles.

Timing is easy. Ramp all your timing cells from idle 15btdc up to about 25-30btdc at 3000 rpm. Fill in the ENTIRE chart with 25-30 for all cells higher then 3000 rpms. This should be good enough for you to start making it driveable with the VE table. I am not sure what timing an N/A normally idles at but 15 should keep it fired. Once you have it running, you can go back and mess with the timing later. MAKE SURE YOUR TIMING SHOWN IN MEGATUNE MATCHES THE CRANK PULLEY WITH A TIMING LIGHT. Get it set idling at about 1000 rpms, 15btdc, and 12.5:1 AFR. That should net a pretty smooth idle.

Congrats, now you know all the assembly and wiring is correct. Tuning is much more fun than debugging. Later, I will check out the logs and post your msq. I will suggest things if I see fit.

I havent started yet. As usual, I am doing at least a month of research and parts sourcing before I lift the motor out. I will look into getting the thing ported (or port it myself) but I definitley want it coated jet-hot.

I will document all my work on this thread so it may come in handy for the rest of you.

I have Aldos's info so I will touch base with them in a few weeks....I am now researching and collecting parts for the big day. I am going to use the Z as is for another month or so and pull the motor sometime in September. Hopefully by then I should have all the parts ready on the bench. I was going to grab a notepad to make a shopping list but why, when I can do it here...excuse my mental notes but as you might be able to tell, this will be my first engine overhaul so I have alot of questions for myself. Fell free to throw advice at me or answer my own questions. Thinking out loud.... Stainless Valves...need to find size info, standard size for P90. Valve seats...I have no idea wether to replace these or not...I'll let the head builder decide. 3 angle job should suffice. Valve guides...powder metal or bronze....research required. maybe just get them from Nissan. Viton Valve Seals...ford capri seals...search HybridZ for part# MSA Stage 1 turbo cam for P90A converted to P90...so basically I need a cam for a P90...I may look for a cheaper cam than MSA's Rockers? Last time I looked, the rockers looked good....note:search hybridz to see if they can be reground if needed. Lash Pads...who the #### knows what size I will need to get the wipe correct....probably wont know until the head gets assembled right? Head gasket...braaap. braaap. braaap....that's all I can think of but I'm favoring HKS MLS type right now...need to find source and price. Intake/Exhaust manifold gasket....factory Nissan 82-83 should be a grafoil material according to TonyD. ARP head stud kit. No problem to find. Timeserts to convert from hydraulic posts...already ordered. Solid posts...rob from my original L28 and check rockers. Valve springs...reuse the factory ones I guess...not going for more than 6500rpms. Block hone 320grit....need size info...search the web for size, required, vendor, and proper use instructions. freez-...I mean core plugs, source from Nissan. Pistons+Pins...Ross, JE, Venolia, AZC...shop around. What diameter do I need? who knows until I check the bores. 8.5:1 compression with a 1 or 2mm HKS gasket?...research required. Rings, moly would be nice. sources? search required. Bearing shells for mains and conn rods. size? Must check crank journals first and must match piston pins. Tending towards factory Nissan bearing shells and bushings. Timing chain kit....easy purchase. ARP rod bolts. easy. ARP main bolts. easy. Plastigage....buy some. Engine gasket kit...easy New oil pump...nissan or aftermarket? research. Exhaust manifold...machine flat and send out for coating. Turbo, check seal/bearing, send out for rebuild, or buy a TO4E, holset, or something with ball bearings...pipe dreams I have acces to precision measurement tools for bores and straightness...no problem.

Ok dont forget to fill out your timing map and good luck.

With the recent discovery of the leaky exhaust manifold gasket, the re-occurance of the hydraulic tick, and now a small oil leak on the turbo center section, I have stepped the rebuild plan up a few notches. It's an unopened L28ET/P90A with 130K miles on it running 15psi for the last 3 years. I am going to have the head built locally with all the standard stuff. I ordered timeserts and will convert to solid posts from my old L28 motor. I will go with some sort of mild street turbo cam and see if they can clean up some casting marks and unshroud the valves a little when they work on the head. I will be handling the lower half of the motor providing it measures up OK. Forged Ross pistons, a decent set of rings, new bearings, timing chain kit, and a manual hone, I am going to use ARP for the head and the conn rods. I might just order a lower engine kit from IPP. $1279 Includes: L28ET 86mm Complete Gasket Set Copper Performance Head Gasket ROSS/Wiseco Forged Performance Pistons (86, 86.5, 87mm bore) and (8.5-1, 9.1-1 comp ratio) Performance Rings Performance Wrist Pins TOGA HP Main Bearings (std, 10)* TOGA HP Rod Bearings (std, 10)* ARP Rod Bolts #202-6003 (9mm) TOGA Oil Pump http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html also a TopLine Timing Kit for $129 I will inspect the turbo to see if it needs a rebuild or I might just follow the sheep and get a Holset from ebay. My goal is about 350-400rwhp reliably using the stock intake/exhaust manifolds unless I find a deal. Anyone have a blank check I can borrow?

OK update. I went for a test run this afternoon and the squeek is still there but not nearly as loud. That tells me that the gasket is shot and/or the manfold is warped enough to leak. One of the hydraulic lifters began intermittently ticking again, and there is a tiny tiny bit of oil smoking off the turbo center section. All in all, it's running great but I am not sure for how long...the engine pull and rebuild has just gotten much higher on my list of priorities. It's about a year sooner than I wanted, but I can make it happen this Fall.

I am guessing around $57K unless the museums get involved.

The 83 turbo spec'd even more advance than that. You will be better off controlling ignition timing with the MS-II. Much more tunability. Nice HP gains comes from good timing curves so this is good news.

http://bringatrailer.com/ http://www.datsunhistory.com/Sharp.html

I drove my WRX since day one to 100K miles with a factory installed fuel leak. The fuel would puddle on the block about four inches in front of the turbine. The dealer would not fix it, the NHTSA, Subaru of North America, all said it was a NON-ISSUE. The smell of fuel in the cold weather was unbearable. I had to run with recirc vents or it would suck fumes into the cabin. There were about 2000 reported and documented cases at the NHTSA of the same issue. The case was closed, Subaru dealers were issued a technical service bulletin, and were told to charge customers for the parts and labor to fix/replace a defective fuel line......anyway despite the bitter feelings....100K miles of it and still no fire. I used to hope it would burn. I ended up biting the bullet and having it fixed by a dealer for $500 because my wife was pregnant and would not ride in the "gas car" anymore. The fuel line fix required several hours of labor because the leaky factory hose clamp was buried under the intercooler and intake manifold. Despite the high risk of fire with the puddle of fuel and the red hot turbine, none of them ever burned up.

LOL in the winter with my Alfa Romeo, SPICA fuel injection, I used to have to pull the plugs at night and warm them in the oven with breakfast so I could start the car in the morning. LOL The good old days!

Actually the turbo cars run an 23-25 btdc at idle which is factory spec. Check the factory manual for the N/A spec. There is a different spec with the vacuum connected and disconnected on the models with vacuum advance. MS is not running your timing so just set it by the book and make sure MS-II is getting a timing signal. Matt will get it right for you. He is the pro. But I did look at your msq file and I made a few changes last night to help you get running. However, I am not sure how to setup your ignition settings because I am not familiar with your ignition system. Also you are only trying to get a timing signal to MS-II so that it knows your RPMs. It should be as simple as building the MS-II correctly and connecting one wire to the right place. If you are now going to control SPARK and FUEL with the MS-II, the msq I tweaked for you will need to be RE-TWEAKED. Let me know and I will give you a timing map.

Ultrasonic? Maybe that's why I never heard them before.... I learn something new every day. Thanks.