cygnusx1

It's all part of the game. After my MS, Fuel Rail, Fuel lines, and thermostat, replacement, I had a coolant leak from the thermostat gasket, two fuel leaks from the AN fittings, one relay had two ground wires instead of a hot and a ground.....but after that was all fixed, it was smooth sailing. Even the pros need to shakedown their cars before they hit the track, so I dont feel so bad.

There are different outputs from the LC1. You need to use the one that's preprogrammed to run 0-5volts. I think it's the brown wire. Also make sure the ground for the sensor is very good and wired according to the LC-1 manual. Don't forget to setup Megatune in the Configurator to use the LC-1 0-5v sensor. Yes one of the outputs emulates a narrowband sensor. I believe the brown wire is your wideband output (0-5v). They can be reprogrammed but it's easier to just use the right wire.

United States Patent 20040189483 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FLOOD LIGHTING UTILIZING ULTRAVIOLET LED I am going to buy a UV LED light to test the gauges....if they glow, it's going to be a nice upgrade from the factory gauge lighting.

Now that's the kind of run off room that makes me all warm and fuzzy inside! Nice race.

Last night I cleaned up all the surfaces of the intake, exhaust and head with a long, straight, sanding block and some 200 and 320 grit emery cloths. The exhaust manifold is about 0.002 - 0.003" low in the middle two ports which should not be much of a problem considering there are three bolts on the center section of the manifold. Mt last port, #6, looks like it had a bad casting from the factory. The seat area at the bottom of port 6 on the ex manifold is only about 1/8" wide. I think that's where it was leaking. Anyhow, I am doing away with the gaskets and going to try to assemble both manifolds to the head with Ultra Copper High Temp Silicone. Hopefully it will work. I am not too worried about failure as I plan on pulling the motor for rebuild in a month or two anyhow. I will report on how the Copper Silicone holds up.

I also have AC so I idle it at about 1000. I am also addicted to MegalogViewer and it's table analyzer. I love watching it go over the drive data and update the VE tables. It works very well. Try it.

Looks faster than the car.

My intake and exhaust manifolds are off but the car should be back together in a few days so barring rain, I will make it.

Congrats. As far as idle air controllers go. I dont really see the need for the added complexity. I use the stock air bypass valve with a 12v source to heat it up and bingo the car warms up at about 1500rpms and gradually drops to a steady idle as it warms up. No fuss no mess. Stalling and stumbling are going to happen until you really get your timing, and VE, and warmup maps dialed in tight to your specific engine. You will have a tough time getting the engine to idle smoothly at any mixtures above 14:1. Mine idles smoothly only at about 12.3:1.

Bumpity Bump. My exhaust manifold is coming out tomorrow for a gasket change...I would like to see one also. Got pics?

Just to clarify, it will work as-is with no ducting. It will work better with ducting.

By Golly! Attack of the clones.... http://wikicars.org/images/en/thumb/b/b0/2008accord.jpg/400px-2008accord.jpg Honda Accord

Has anyone ever tested stock S30 gauges to see if the numbers and needles light up with black light? I was thinking of installing some black light LED's to shine at each gauge. I think it would look amazing if the white print would reflect the light back. You could probably adapt one of the kits for PC cases.

The earlier version had some issues with ride quality but I am sure with time, the concept will be dialed in.

Most likely it's worn clutch parts, bad clutch hydraulics, or very slight chance of gear or u-joint problems. I would venture to say that 99% chance it's one of the first two relatively easy fixes. Have a mechanic look at it before you buy it unless it's a really good price, then don't worry about it.

This could give Darius a run for his money! Really, really nice!

4586! Wow porky. Nissan claims 3100-3300# Curb Weight.

Yes it is set to inverted...I remember specifically looking for that because it's all over the Megamanual in !!!BOLD!!!.

In your msq that I looked at above, the setting was Going High, Inverted which is correct for the car to run....AFAIK.

Errors while opening an .msq are usually due to Megatune setup in the Configurator for a different firmware. I am using v2.6xxx

Ooo Oooo, question! IF I choose to go with the semi-popular method of NO GASKET and I use a bead of some exotic high temp sealant around the exhaust ports, what to I do for the intake ports? Afterall, if I leave out the exhaust manifold gasket, I have no intake gasket either. Right?

3.1 MAX!!

No wonder David's Z is so fast...it has a 280Z glovebox!!!!

Nice job!

I my circle of friends, I am known for a quote that I said over 20 years ago in high school. "Eventually, all cars are going to assume the perfect aerodynamic shape and they will all look boringly the same."