cygnusx1

The killer PC that I built last year got a virus...or something. In the process of clearing it up it became unstable. I got it running again but it was not right. I decided to reinstall the OS for peace. Well, the OS refused to install constantly kicking me back to blue screen at random points during the process. After about twenty tries with different hardware and BIOS configurations, I am done! I was so pissed that I was ready to toss the thing out the window, jump out the window myself, and smash the crap out of it with a sledge. With my wife on bedrest and the baby due, I have NO time to screw with this crap. I am using my wifes laptop PC now. For sale: Two Nvidia 256mb XFX 6800GT SLi video cards PCI Express16X Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe Motherboard 4 Sticks of 512 DDR Geil 2-5-2-2 RAM (real fast stuff) 184pin AMD 64bit 3500+ Processor Socket 939 with heatsink and fan. ATX CASE with Four Fans, Side window, 500Watts, Gloss Black, LCD Temp readout and fan speed control. Of course if you have a problem with a part, I would refund part cost +shipping. -Dave MAKE OFFERS

BTW the Foveon chip is a CMOS sensor rathar than a CCD. The Canons use CMOS. I think that's why they show less noise in higher ISO than the Nikons. Yeah do a google search for Miguel Lasa. You will enjoy.

I love the Coolpix series. Really sharp and great metering. My photography "mentor" swears by them too. I think I've convinced myself to pick up an Point and Shoot as a backup camera for Christmas. LOL.

Actually, I am playing devil's advocate because I want him to see that the point and shoot is not all evil. I hate tripods and I hate carrying lenses and I beat the crap out of my gear. I do however like to put it away clean so I do spend time after a trip cleaning the outside and the sensor. Personally, I like the challenge of shooting an DSLR and I try to outdo myself with each session. I guess what I mean to say here is that if you have an interest in SLR cameras and classic film cameras, like me, you probably want to go the same route with your digital life. However, if the "significant other" will need to use it, the kids will need to use it, and you want to drag it everywhere you go without fear; a rugged point and shoot fits the bill. Image quality in a $300 Digital PnS is comparable to a $2000 DSLR rig for shooting pics of car parts and funny photos that will be emailed to relatives at relatively low resolutions anyhow. Here is a photo by one of my favorite nature photographers, Miguel Lasa Sometimes it's not even the camera, but you are probably not going to get that shot with a point and shoot!

Umm, just to clarify. All Canon lenses will fit any Canon DSLR. As should Nikons. The DSLR and the SLR mounts are the same for each brand. I suggested getting both types waaay up in the beginning of this thread. You can do a Canon Digital Rebel XT 8MP for $550, a nice Sigma 18-125mm lens for $350 or a 18-200mm for $500, and a real good point and shoot for $250. Then you need some memory. I also suggest picking up a f/1.8 50mm Prime Lens for about $100 great for portrait shooting indoors.

We haven't heard from the original poster in a while? Ron, yes my DSLR turns on in less than half a second by tapping the shutter release button no matter what mode it is in. But, I might have to take it out of a protective bag, take off the lens cap, maybe change the lens, double check that I didnt leave it in ISO 1600 or something, and make sure it's in Program mode, is the lens switch set to manual or auto....so all that said, I can still be beat by a credit card sized point and shoot that is in someones front pocket with a 5x optical zoom no brainer.

Do they carry the cross drilled brake lines?

Try Zonealarm Pro. Works for my porn....I mean PC. It's a firewall, antivirus, and anti trojan. I still use Adwatch to lock my registry too. Sudden shutdown can also be caused by a weak power supply.

Now THAT's fast food.

Yup, Mike we think alike. Not only does MP3 just get by but CD's have huge variations. Some artists take pride in their recordings and it shows. I can't beleive how many CD''s I pop into my system and they sound "dead". MP3 is barely palletable on a sound system that can show you the difference. Cymbals that sound like saran wrap! Yuk. Take a look at the Phase One digital backs. It's the V8 of the digicam. http://www.phaseone.com/Content/p1digitalbacks/Hotnews/Ultimate%20range.aspx

Actually I have never even owned a film SLR. I am, however, a fan of ANY photography and frequent galleries. I know what a large format film can do. Most of us though, will never print our photos anywhere near life size or beyond. If you are going to display your photos poster size or less, 8-10 megapixels are enough so that the shots shouldn't look grainy. 99.9% of my photos are shown either through a DLP projector, a 50" monitor, or a web browser. I can satisfy all of my artistic needs with a measly 8MP DSLR. I don't sell my stuff so it's fine. The only reason I went with a DSLR is because I am naturally curious and I can't get enough of tinkering. Heck, when I was about 2, I hit the e-stop button on an escalator and sent about 30 people crashing down on eachoter. Well, yes, a DSLR can be a point and shoot too. They do it very well. I think we need to start a "show me your photography thread"!

Enjoy it with your family and friends and your Z if you can. Have a good one!

Hey, I invented that about 5 years ago!

I love airplane photos. Rarely do I get to see a seaplane around here anymore. I remember growing up, it was still legal to land on the small lake by my parents bungalo. Whenever we heard the Cessna low over our roofs, all the kids, including me, would run down to the lake to watch it land on the water.

I agree with all of the above. That's why it is hard to make a choice for you. I just think that one is more likely to carry around a point n shoot camera at all times. Therefore one misses less shots. I have some good $150 lenses too. But a good a point and shoot lens is generally good at everything. My $150 lenses are good at one end of their range or at a fixed range. An SLR lens must be changed to acheive a different result in a different range. It's inconvenient and convenient at the same time. There is no right answer you must study and glean the pros and cons of each possible path. Ideally you get both an SLR and a PnS. If you shop right, you can do both. I have all the fancy SLR gear and now I wish I had a nice PnS to throw in the glovebox for those unexpected moments. Beautiful shots up there guys BTW! I love this one:

Nilkon Canon Sony Fuji.....don't get hung up on a name unless you already have the lenses for it. They are all good. Remember this very important rule. Glass holds it's value EXTREMELY well. Especially when it says Canon L or Nikor on it. The SLR bodies price drops faster than a coilovered Z. They DO NOT hold value for very long at all. Spend the big money on the glass and buy older model SLR bodies. Still I stick with my recommendation of a GOOD $400-$500 point and shoot and you will NOT be dissapointed. Spend the leftover $$$ on the new baby. BTW my redhead is expecting our first child this January. Good luck and congrats. I use my printer for about 10-15 high quality prints a year. The rest are archived on DVD or the Web. For lots of prints, you can't beat the big stores or the real photo print services. I would love to get one of the new large format, archival quality printers, but it's just not financially right for me.

I have to say to stick with a GOOD point n shoot. You get really good glass in these new 6-10 megapixel point n shoot cameras. With an SLR you will need to spend about $1000-$1500 in glass to match the point n shoots. If you are not going for artsy, creative, technicaly difficult photos you wont need the SLR. You will miss less shots with a small point n shoot. That said, I shoot an SLR with 40 pounds of gear in tow. I use a Canon 20D primarily which you can get for a good deal now that the D30 was released. I cant go without mentioning software. It is very important to have good software to get the most out of any camera. Read and study material and pay attention to the glass they use. http://www.steves-digicams.com http://www.megapixel.net http://www.dpreview.com http://www.photoblink.com <---real good photographers here Here is some of my work: http://www.photoblink.com/photosthumb.asp?groupby=authorid&value=6974 Mystic Connecticut: GTO-R at Limerock: http://www.photoblink.com/images/c22/im/pb187360.jpg Back Yard: or go to my signature link to my other albums.

Very nice work. I love the engine bay venting through the holes into the fender ducts. Nice idea. Have you tested for airflow through the holes or is it theory?

Hmm DoD:source plays very well and the graphics are out of this world. I don't understand why you equate it to fail? I could bitch all day about STEAM, but Source seems good.

Sorry, I am addicted to "Day of Defeat:Source" on PC

Oh wow, I wonder where that exhaust leak was? It might be worth looking for an early manifold on ebay or somewhere on the web. Try zbarn.com.

What we have here is the dilemma of the century. Do we molest a pure version of an unmolested, molested car? Will the real purists please stand up!

It looks amazing! I will NEVER forget the day I went to the body shop and saw my Z with the new paint on it. I was floored and I bet you were too. I think it took me about two days to put it all back together I was so excited.

...and when it comes time to bust some knuckles...Work area, tools, techniques: You need to have a place that is dedicated to working on the car. It must be convenient and organized because there will be many other roadblocks. Workspace should NOT be one. Tools must be organized and available nearly instantly. I don't understand how people intend to work on a car from a tin toolbox tray packed 10" deep with random, scattered, rusty, tools. It's just NOT conducive to success. Buy, rent, borrow the RIGHT tool. Don't waste time with a hammer and chisel. I have found over the years that work technique is also very important. Don't be afraid to unbolt six or seven parts to gain better access to the part you need to work on. In other words, get everything out of the way before you start working on the main problem. It's like a warmup and it make everything much easier later. If a part has six bolts on it, I always attack the most difficult bolt first when I am least tired and frustrated. Keep these points in mind and you can keep frustration in check. Frustration will kill a project quickly.

Find a link to darius's current project. I really like what he has done. You need to lose the tank though. Here it is: