cygnusx1

My 1972 Alfa Romeo spec'd Golden Lodge plugs. Anyone ever see a Golden Lodge? They had four ground tabs surrounding the electrode. They left the electrode pretty exposed all the way around for good flame propogation. ----------------------^ THIS ONE .

I wasn't bashing the roller method guys, just wondering if all the labor was really saving you all that money. Yes, if you budget is $50...I can fully understand. LOL.

With all the sanding labor that goes on to get the final shine from the rustoleum, wouldn't it be easier to spray it on instead of rolling to minimized the sanding. And why not use "real" car paint instead of rustoleum either roller or spray? I am not at all educated in the art of paint and bodywork that's why I ask these basic questions.

I am so jealous Prox. I just put the four Blizzak's on my WRX last night and drove to work in drizzle rain. I want SNOW. Lot's of it. SEND IN THE SNOW PLEASE!!!

yup...I think Navi got it.

The Z "enrichment circuit" has been for sale in catalogs for many years. Cockpit adjustable too.

Pork rind maker.

make a thin shield out of spring steel to slip over the broken stud to protect the deck.

Holy attention to detail Batman! It's nice to see such commitment to a job well done.

Did the Z's win? Did they finish? Don't leave us folks without TIVO hanging!

Very nice ride. Great track cars too. Good luck.

I wonder if it would be easier just to cut up some aluminum sheet 1/8" thick. Shape it to the stock pedals and drill some nice holes in it. Then drive a few screws through the sheet to fasten it to the original rubber/metal pedals. You could even get creative and punch some "dimple grippies" into the aluminum from the back with a punch and a hammer.

How about some pseudo functional mechanical sketching like Leonardo Da Vinci type stuff with more modern subjects. Traditional might mean still-life, portraits, architecture, landscape...

This morning coming to work, I was in my WRX (stage1 about 265hp flywheel) and I needed to pull into traffic from a side road at a stop sign I wanted to merge into a tight stream of about 50mph traffic so I needed to launch it hard to blend in. I rev'd it up to about 5000 rpm and rode the clutch out through first gear and banged second. I probably hit 60 in about 4 point something seconds. Well funny part of the story is when I got to work, I parked and went to get out of the car and noticed that my passenger side floor mat had folded in half back over itself. Now that is a hard launch!

There was a fairly heated argument thread about this about 6 months ago. Try searching for turbo connecting rods. Something about bead blasting or shot peening being the difference but I don't remember....search it.

It has been a while since I "rebuilt" my hydraulic rocker posts. After sitting for weeks at a time, the car fires right up much stronger than it ever did. They never tick anymore and I still swear it has more torque and power since the "rebuild". Proxlamus, so you went back to hydraulic? I have no qualms about my hydraulic setup.

So a widening the front track will transfer load to the rear? I think I get it. But not totally sure. I guess widening the track is like softening the swaybar on that end. No? Also, scrub radius can be felt when locking up one front tire. The steering wheel will pull one way or the other. With positive scrub, it will pull away from the locked up tire.

What if any handling changes can be acheived by simply adding/subtracting wheel spacers to the front, rear or both? Just curious because this doesn't come up much in discussions. This is different than lengthening LCA's by way of camber, or isn't it? Here is a pretty good discussion... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102536&highlight=track+width

What we might learn from this time in the wind tunnel with the S30 1)Lift vs Speed - weight on the front and rear wheels plotted separately. a.Stock form w/ and w/o headlight covers. b.Front spoiler - BRE, MSA w/ 3-4" clearance, big honking track air dam 1" clearance c.Rear spoiler - BRE, MSA, Whaletail d.Roof treatments- roof diffusers, top hatch wing, driprails on-off e.Hood options - stock, louvered, reverse scooped cowl. f.Rocker side skirts. g.g-nose h.side windows up/down 2)Drag plotted with same conditions as above. 3)Airflow with smoke. 4)Pressure points at key locations vs Speed. a. tail panel b. along hatch c. along waistline d. windsheild base e. around a,b,c pillars f. underhood g. wheel wells h. roof top i. points along hood j. rear valence k. rockers l. underside key areas. These are by no means, demands. These are suggestions.

When are you getting it on the road? I can't wait to get a full report! Very Very nice.

Yes, you will need to switch to a solid style cam. You also need to make sure the wipe pattern is correct. Raising and lowering the posts will move your wipe pattern.....right BRAAP? BTW, don't throw out your hydraulic posts, they are probably still ok and are very rare.

Stock high mile L28ET, TO4B, Intercooled, 2.5" exhaust, stock injection/injectors, high fuel pressure, very restrictive intake, 14-15psi. RWHP on a hot humid day.

Mmmm tasty! Reminds me of orange sherbet ice cream.

Try to get a 512Mb card. I like the 8000 series from Nvidia or at least a 7800GTX. Do you have a PCI Express motherboard? Do you have SLI capabilities? I like Nvidia because there software was always better. AMD just picked up ATI so hopefully the ATI software will be getting a facelift. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143071 slightly over budget at $239 but kicks a55. 24 Pixel Pipelines Baby! I play GTR FIA, Richard Burns Rally, and the new RACE by SIMbin. all options full tilt with a single 7900GTX with smooth video.

Back to the original point....completely negligable forces. You would have more positive effect on overall CG by removing the cigarette lighter.