cygnusx1

Yes, I spent weeks trying to get the mixtures "right" after the IC install. I think that was due to the FMU though...but not sure. I definately ran rich when I was done assembling it. The problem is that I don't know what fixed it. 1) AFM tweaking 2) FMU tweaking 3) Cleaning Connectors 4) Fixing vacuum leaks 5) All the above. Answer: Don't know what it was.

Connectors, Connectors, Connectors! Open them, spray clean them, and reassemble them. Do the AFM, The TPS, the ECU, the Temp sensor connectors. Usually its the AFM. And, do it again. You are on the right track. All your symptoms point to a bad signal to the ECU. Spray the inside of the AFM electronics while your at it. Oh, and very often neglected, take out the fusible links, clean those connectors too and/or replace the links. Let us know.

Do me a favor, try 13psi on the dyno and see how that works. I run 13-14 with the stock FI system. I had set the FMU to 45psi(fuel) at 13psi boost BUT it seems to run fine without the FMU as well, or on the stock fuel curve. Because of all the mid power I have, I dont really ever go much past 5300rpms. I know the AFM setting plays a role too. I set my AFM spring wheel to give me a smooth, smoke-free, clean-smell, idle. I have the idle mix screw all the way in (rich). I need to line up some dyno time soon. It "seems" to be running good. Good luck on the dyno.

Actually, there are two types of mechanical boost controllers that I know of. One type bleeds signal according to a predetermined "leak", the other type, what I use, is a ball/spring type(grainger). The ball spring type will prevent the wastegate from getting ANY signal to open until the set boost level is achieved. This type keeps the wastegate totally shut until you reach your full set boost. Either changing the spring or compressing the spring with a spacer or turning a screw onto the spring will change the peak boost setting. They can stick open or shut so always monitor your gauge. As far as boost going haywire after installing the I/C, mine did too but it was because the ball/spring jammed open allowing only stock boost. Once I fixed the jam, I had to raise the boost just a bit and all has been fine ever since. Bast, just for old time sake, clean your connectors.... oh and experiment with your BOV. Eliminate it and see if the boost ghost goes away. EDIT: I am not so sure taking boost signal for the wastegate actuator from the intake manifold is a good idea. I don't know why but just a hunch.

Way to go Bast! Job well done. I remember when I got the pipes I laid them on the floor lined up as they would be in the car. I was amazed at how it looked like it would fit right in. In about a 1/2 hour with a hacksaw, I had it all mocked up in the car. For me the experience was 90% desperation and 10% installation. Much easier than I thought. I am running 13-14 psi with the stock injectors and eccs. With a small bump in fuel pressure to about 45psi with an FMU. I have no dyno data but it runs great. Feel the intercooler after you drive. There is a huge temp diff. from the drivers side to the passengers side.

Good info. I also decided to eliminate the PCV valve and vent the Block and Valve Cover to a vented catch can. All the logic sounds correct. This way, the crankcase will NEVER get pressurised, and no oil will get inhaled into the intake system. I ordered the Summit racing plastic catch can (breather tank) for $29 seems like its good enough for the job..and it comes in red, blue, or black. Emssions? Just tell them that the PCV is hidden under the intake behind the turbo...j/k. There is no emissions testing in my area. Does PCV affect driveability muchl? Just a reminder to the casual reader: dont forget to plug the PCV tap hole under the intake after you remove the PCV valve.

I searched for about 15 minutes before I posted...next time I will open my eyes when I search... Thanks.

I would like to minimize the oil passing through my intake system. I read that an Oil Catch Can can help. Where do they get hooked up? Between the PCV and the block, or between the valve cover vent and intake hose? Thanks.

I think routing the IC pipes is dictated more by cost, difficulty, and parts availability than anything else. I think it will function well either way. With my setup, pictured (http://hvmp.com/dc/76Z-IC-2.jpg), I did need a 16" Mr. Gasket electric fan for $100. I think belt service is easier now than before. The pipes come out in under two minutes and there is no clutch fan in the way. Up front, I run a Bug Screen/IC/Oil Cooler/AC Condenser/3 row radiator all stacked up in that order and I dont have any cooling issues. I have driven in 90 degree weather in moderate stop and go traffic with AC for 1/2 hour with no issues. It works. To each their own. That's why HybridZ's are custom cars.

DUH!! You are right! It's been that long since I had the trans opened up and I forgot the counter shaft was one cast part. Slap me silly!! I looked at sooo many ratio charts from Nissanway back when and couldn't match anything up to mine. I'll check out that link Thanks alot. Does the fact that I had to swap in my original 4 speed bell housing in place of this 5 speed bell help identify the trans?

I am not sure what composition of rubber the elbows are. That would make all the difference. Whatever they are, they are holding up perfectly at 14psi. What you don't see from the picture is that they are about 1/4" thick walled. They are also relatively cheap. I have posted this place before but here it is again: Piping/Tubing source: http://shop.airflowonline.com EDIT: The drawback of rubber would be twofold. 1) Possibility of melting. 2) Flexing under pressure causing lag (very minimal I would think).

I have a Datsun 5-speed that came from an unknown vehicle. Supposedly it was pulled from a new Z under warranty in the early 70's. I got it from a retired Nissan mechanic who had it in his shed since it was pulled. It looked new. After I fixed the defect that caused it to get pulled, I put it into my 76Z. The problem was that the little "oil catch pan" which deilvers oil to the rear bushing was cracked. The lack of rear oil wiped out the tail bushing. To fit it to the back of my 76 motor, I had to swap the bell housing with my original 4-speed bell. I have been driving the trans for over 10 years. I remember trying to ID the tranny by using the ratio pattern but I never found out what vehicle it came from. The casting is a standard Nissan F#S### 5-speed number. However, it does not match ratio pattern with ANY Nissan 5-speed in any car or truck from 1968-1990. I never had any problems with it. It had a slghtly lower 1st and a good 5th for highway. 4th remains 1:1. Now I have a hyper turbo motor in my 280Z. With the additional power, I find that 1st and 2nd are too quick. 3rd to 5th are very nice. Is it normally possible to change out gears from other FS series Nissan trans to custom taylor the ratios? Thanks.

bast, Take a look at my reply in thie neigboring thread page2: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=35183&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20 On the AFM thing, that thought crossed my mind when I was trying to get my car to run right and all it did was run rich! Well, a vacuum leak and too much FMU were the causes. Now it runs super sweet. I don't think that the AFM is "misreading" due to flow losses at all. Air in=Air consumed no matter what. Unless you have a leak.

I have the I/C pipe routed so that the cooled air passes behind the radiator on its way to the throttle. For peace of mind, I insulated it. With the great volume of air flowing through that pipe, very little of the heat from the pipe transfers to the airstream. A pipe of that diameter is a very poor heat transfer device anyhow. Routing it the other way around may render your I/C slightly more efficient because you are adding that little bit of "radiator heat" to the air before it gets cooled. This leads to a higher "delta T", temp. diff. between the intake air and the I/C making for a steeper "hill" for the heat to move down. Now there are a ton of other factors to consider before we say which way is better. Is that higher delta T going to remove all the additional heat?.. Maybe, maybe not. Some basic engineering will be able to quantify each scenario. Personally, I dont have the the equipment to study this the correct way. For our street drivers this difference is negligable. If you want to get real concerned about intake air temp, put your hand on your intake manifold after driving your turbo Z around for a while. -! Be Careful !- A hot manifold will add way more heat to the air than that pipe behind the radiator. Just my 2c

I actually bought the 2.5" pipe kit from the ebay guy. I bought that reducer/adapter for the jpipe from him too and I bought an additional black elbow from a truck supply place. I do have some tubing left over but not enough to do another Z. The stuff is Stainless and will outlast the car. I actually have one of those black elbows left over I can mail you (2.5"). I didn't like the clamps that came with the pipe kit so I got a dozen T-bolt clamps from some other ebayer. I am not sure if you can use the 2.5" stuff but if you can, let me know. Very special price for you The Begi 2022 FMU works as advertised. I have not put the grainger valve inline with it yet so I run it with very low onset. I initially ran it with 55psi fuel at 13psi boost but the car was waaay too rich overall (smoke). I backed to about 45psi at 15psi and like the way its running now. I cant say it don't go lean afer ?#? Rpm because I have no measuring tools for that. All I know is that it is FAST, the plugs run a good color, and I keep it on this side of 5500rpms. Let me know about the pipes.

Great news about the free IC Bast! Here is a good photo of my I/C install in process. Good luck and hit ebay hard. http://hvmp.com/dc/76Z-IC-2.jpg

How do you pressurise the intake but keep air from going out the exhaust? Is there a point where all the exhaust/intake valves are not open to exhaust? or do you plug the exhaust? I'm interested in trying this.

The turbo in the photos is the old stock T3 but I am currently using a T04B Compressor side... its a reman turbo from "zcarsmakemyheadhurt", a forum member. He said it was a Super V trim wheel. I am not sure what numbers that equates to but I know it has more lag than stock and pulls REAL hard the faster I go. It is definately a high flow turbo. I managed to use the stock AFM-Turbo boot even though the TO4B compressor intake is about 3". At first, the turbo suction collapsed my cold air intake tube so I replaced that with a tougher tube then the ZX AFM-Turbo rubber boot was collapsing so I put the metal spring back into it. Ooops forgot to answer your question. The turbine is a T3.

Oh, that tube is already connected. In the photos it does not look connected but it is. I made a copper pipe "offset" that connects the lower end of the gray tube off the valve cover to the rubber intake boot just downstream of the AFM. The copper pipe allows it to go under the throttle body without kinking that gray hose. I also have the BOV vented into a 1.5" bulkhead fitting in the same rubber intake boot after the AFM. It's a pity that I can't hear the BOV at all since it's recirculated. I plan on taking some detail photos and possibly a driving movie soon.

Hehe, I started thinking about that FMU also and decided to tweak it down a bit last weekend. I turned it down, set up the AFM wheel a little richer to get that sweet idle, and then opened the plug gaps a little bit. I had them gapped tight but I find it to run a little smoother during daily driving gapped just a touch under factory spec. It was running really nice after all that. I guess you were correct that the FMU was doing too much. I am not sure about the vacuum leaks. I can't find any. Idle does drop about 200rpms when opening the oil cap or the dipstick but it does not stall.

So, Drax, How is the beast running? Are the Viton seals doing their job? I finally got the EFI bugs out of my car and I am now ready to start conquering the valve seals.

Back to the fluttering sound.....Mine did it in a big way PHUTPHATTTFLUTT in rapid succession when I let off the throttle after building some boost. I had no BOV and thats why it made the noise (described by someone as the sound of choking a goose). Once I put in the TurboXS Race Type blow off valve, the sound dissapeared. So....maybe your BOV is not BOV'ing enough.

Thanks for the tips.. Sorry but this is a bit wordy: Well I use a stock 83 turbo motor and stock 83 turbo ECCS and stock turbo injectors. I am not sure there is a water temp sensor in this sytem, It uses head temp which is working fine. Funny you mention idle. I can get a super smooth idle by adding some fuel mixture at idle by using the AFM wheel/spring to dial it in. Once I get a perfect idle, I think she runs rich at anything above idle. The reason I say this is because after setting it rich enough to get a rock steady idle, she will puff smoke when I rev after idle. If I lean it back out (AFM spring) to get a rough idle, the puff of smoke will not come out when I rev it off idle. All this seemed to scream, "INTAKE LEAK" but I have not found any yet. I realize the FMU is a potential source of richness and since I cannot watch the fuel pressure gauge while driving. I am going to disable the FMU and see what happens. Based on tests I did, the FMU will build fuel pressure to a of 55psi at 13psi boost or so. Maybe the richening curve of the FMU is too early. I may try my "patentpending" idea of putting a grainger-valve in the FMU boost sense line to keep the FMU from doing anything until 13psi. Anyhow, based on what you guys are saying, I do think the turbo is heating up from unburned fuel. The fact that the car smells rich and that I do see puffs of black smoke off-idle and sometimes while getting into boost spells rich also. After all that......the car runs pretty good overall and I was only a bit concerned with the glowing turbo so I hear it's fairly normal to light up a turbo anyhow.

SO let me get this straight. Lean wil cause high exhaust gas temps and rich will cause high exhaust temps also. So a perfect mixture and burn should yield the lowest turbine temp given all other conditions the same. -improper timing mimicks a lean or rich condition by either burning too hot (ping) or ejecting unburned fuel; both leading to high egt's. Correct? BTW I run stock ZXT base timing 21 or 22 degrees.

Nice glow in that photo! I am running SS 45 degree downpipe 2.5" and it is 2.5" all the way back with no cat. The only thing in my exhaust is the 2.5" Magnaflow Muffler at the tail pipe. The muffler is WIDE open with a straight through flow. Looking through it makes me wonder why I even put it there. I also dont drive it much over 5200 rpms ever--well sometimes I do like the other night Just a good habit I guess. I wish I had a EGT or wideband AF meter to let me know if I was in the ballpark. I thought it was running great but when I saw the turbine glow, I thought again; maybe sumtings rong. Regardless of the glow, it does run good.