cygnusx1

525, Thats about the exact size of my Spearco. No matter how hard I drive or how hot the weather is, when I stop, open the hood, and feel the IC, the inlet is hot and the outlet is as cold as can be. I run 13psi with 2.5" tubing.

Well, I dont know what temps Im running and I dont know what % Im running. I know I'm playing with fire but I tried to set everything up fairly conservatively. I have the AFM tuned to just a tick leaner than where the heavy black soot stops from the tailpipe during WOT. I dont have tons of tuning experience with a turbo. I do know that lean will run high EGT but doesnt excessive rich also cause high turbine temps? BTW the FMU brings fuel 55psi at 13boost.

I wrapped my exhaust turbine with thermotec wrap designed for this purpose. I wanted to reduce engine bay temps and run the turbine more efficiently. Tonight, I got back from a hard highway run and even after a five minute easy cool down ride, I could see orange glow from under the wrap. Any thoughts on this. Is the wrap a bad idea and is a glowing turbo a bad sign?

Hey glad to see this topic here. I thought about this also when doing my swap and I did decide to put in check valves on all the old vacuum lines. Why not, it cant hurt. Dave

I didnt say steal it! I said trade.

Poke around my project photos in the link below. I will be adding some more shortly that also show the BOV installed. http://www.hvmp.com/dc There are advantages and disadvantages to the way I did it. Obviously different intercoolers require different routing. Search this site there are many photos.

I have been disconnecting and spraying the connector and the pins with brake cleaner which is the same as electrical contact cleaner. I have then reassembled them dry. All the stock connectors and clips are working and are in good shape visually. My friend is bringing home a spray from IBM that is a cleaner/lubricant/anti corrosive and it helps maintain low resistance connections. They use it for millivolt connectors and contacts on old oscilloscopes. The problem is that the stuff is no longer manufactured and he cant even leave me the can. I can use it but he has to bring it right back. I will report on it. I too find it odd. An engineer or common sense will tell you that it doesn't make sense that a connectoin can degrade consistently in a few days of normal use. I too would point to some underlying issue but the fact remains that after spraying with cleaner the car runs ALOT better and then begins to degrade over a few days until it is virtually undriveable. Very strange indeed. And the fact that at least two of us on opposite ends of the country are simultaneously experiencing EXACTLY the same problem makes it even stranger. So far grease on the connectors seems to be helping bastaad525.

bastaad525, Very True, wiggling and or disconnecting and reconnecting does NOT work. Cleaning with a solvent does. It is NOT a "maybe" difference, it is a HUGE difference. Last time I had the "stumbles" or "brick wall" I only cleaned the AFM and the three ECU connectors to solve the issue. Next time I will do only the AFM to try to narrow it down. If it is the AFM connector I will be happy because there are only four pins to deal with. I could probably use a conductive paste, carefully, on those four pins and then put some dielectric grease on the body of the connector to keep out the weather. Beating this problem will be a huge milestone in my book and I am sure yours too. We will beat this if you havent already.

Oooh look what I found....thanks to Google. http://www.machinedesign.com/ASP/viewSelectedArticle.asp?strArticleId=56604&strSite=MDSite Im gonna try to get some. I requested a sample from here: http://www.nyelubricants.com/

OMG I was just going to post almost EXACTLY the same thing! My recent experience coincides 100% with your findings. Disconnecting and reconnecting does nothing to improve the rich running and choking. Cleaning the AFM, ECU connectors, and pins with spray cleaner (brake cleaner in my case) will buy me about 2 days of running extremely well. There is a NIGHT and DAY difference in power and driveability after cleaning. However two days is NOT acceptable. PLEASE let me know how the grease worked out and what kind you used. I actually have a friend at IBM doing some research for me. I challenged him to find some magic "stuff" that will allow connectors to maintain a low resistance coupling. OMG I did post almost exactly the same thing. Well, lets keep this up to date. Obviously, connectors are the bane of the hybrid Z. BTW I had posted about using dielectric grease on some of my connectors and grounds a while back. However I have heard that the low voltage we have in our connectors may be affected by a grease. Dave

Leave your other FMIC in the pile as evidence and take the Trust one home. It has your prints all over it now anyway.

Here is a great info page from The Atlantic Z Car Club [http://www.atlanticz.ca/] http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/ Enjoy!

I live in a fairly remote area where electrical cleaner was not on anyones shelves. I thought carb cleaner but when I looked on my shelf I had brake cleaner. Can you? I guess, I did. BTW ON3GO, tell Alex Costa that the TO4B he built me is kicking butt.

This may be offbase but did you lean hard on the manifold when you were working on it possibly loosening the intake exhaust gasket. Leaky gaskets in the exhaust make annoying ticking sounds....sometimes worse when hot. OR Injector O-rings not seated properly?

"Icon with hammer hitting me on head" <--post one for me please? SLAP ME SILLY!!!!!! This is the second time I have gotten bit in the A55 by the same gremlin and it still snuck up on me. I went over all the connectors and grounds by disconnecting them and reconnecting about 3 weeks ago to try to solve the rich stumbles and had no luck. This time I sprayed them heavily with brake cleaner inside and out. I also sprayed the guts of the AFM and, removed the main fusible links on the right fender and cleaned those connections until they shined. I took it for a spin and HOLY MOLY it runs smooth as a top and, this is the kicker, I didnt smell the exhaust in the car....I smelled the exhaust of cars in front of me..now THAT is a change. I also pulled away from a 911 convertible on a windy road. When I stopped at the intersection he caught up to me and beeped with a thumbs up. I am SOOOO happy that I want nothing more than to drive and drive and drive. OK now I know I said I already cleaned the connectors in my original post but clean is not enough. They have to be CLEEEEEAAAAAAN!!!! Thanks for all that listened to me babble and you all offered excellent advice.

gexgexgexgex, are you still here? See what you started!

So there you have it. A stock ZO6 can be beat by a Z for not excessive money. You are absolutely correct in that "priceless" is the best way to describe the results of the look of the ZO6 driver upon being passed. On that note, whatever your budget is, figure on installing a rear facing camera to catch the priceless look! johnc that is a SWEEEEET setup!

Whats the price of a Z06 and the price of a Datsun based Z06 killer. Taking into consideration, labor cost, handling, 1/4mile, top speeds, and drivability, appearance, safety...Tall order, yes, but I bet a well built Z can be done for 3/4 the cost of the Z06...no warranty though sorry. I am a turbo Z fan but you better go V8 or GN V6 if you a really going to go for it.

Thanks for the homework guys. Today I established that the popoff is not a source of the problem. Prior, this car had NO issues running with the stock turbo and J-pipe at 10psi. I used and still use the factory turbo ignition and fuel system. This problem came after I put in the TO4B, the Spearco and the Walbro Fuel pump. I had the plug gaps wide and narrow with no difference. I will turn the boost back down and see what happens. I will also swing the base timing back and forth a few degrees to test. Yeah it really loads up and plumes black smoke before it "catches" and hauls a55. It's like it snarls, smokes, and hesitates to warn me and then it just hits like a sledge hammer to the rear bumber and takes off. Sean73, I dont have any metering tools but at night I can see the green LED in the ECU blinking about every 2-4 seconds green during steady cruising. It runs fine until I load it up from 1/2 pedal to 3/4 pedal. It sounds so much like the accelerator pump on a carb coming on too hard. Also the exhaust during normal driving smells cleaner than it ever has.

Update: Pop-off valve tightened down by adding lots of washers on spring. Still stumbles. Theory 3: Could the knock sensor pull any tricks to make it stumble and blow fuel out the tailpipe under mid throttle low rpm load?

I sent my core in and bought a rebuilt unit. I am happy with it so far so good. About $400 for a TO4B which has a larger flowing compressor but still uses the stock ZX turbine that bolts to the exhaust manifold. I would reccommend a rebuilt unit and if you want simplicity get a stock rebuild. It's fast, cheap, and easy. IMHO

OK I have spent a few weeks sorting the install of the TO4B and the Spearco. I got rid of all the bugs except for this one. If I accelerate about mid throttle and hold it where it slowly builds boost with moderate load and acceleration it will build to about 7-9 psi and then stumble like mad and throw black smoke puffs out the back. If I then push the pedal harder, it will clearup in about 2 seconds and build boost to 13 and go like heck with no visible smoke. It idles very clean as I confirmed on a tailpipe sniffer and the plugs look pretty clean if not just a bit sooty around the outsides. The TPS is working perfectly, the temp sensors are working and I have the Pop-off valve tie-wrapped. Plugs are new NGK at 0.030" gap, timing is factory spec for '83 turbo and the fuel pressure is factory spec. I just confirmed all of the above. Wires, cap, rotor all pretty new, injectors all new, ALL EFI connections and GND's have been inspected and reconnected. All stock EGR and PCV functions are functioning. I dare say everything mechanical and electrical are independantly "OK". I have two theories: 1) the big intercooler, pipes, and turbo lag more than stock so AFM reads air flow BEFORE the engine actually needs more fuel causing a rich period before full boost. 2)Tiewraps on the pop-off letting air out at 7-9psi cause rich condition which is then offset by higher air flows at 13psi. Anyone have any more ideas. I am going to work on the pop-off theory now since its the easiest to test.

Jersey, great job! I am so proud to be able to brag about you. LOL. Totally amazing on a basically stock "ol' skool" setup! I know what you mean about no more of these cars on the road here in the Northeast. I always get props by today's whippersnapper generation as I drive past. "Nice Car!", they yell. Most of them have no idea what it is so it just goes to show how incredible these cars are. ...a 30 year old design that is still "stylin" and still kicks booty as well. Keep on pushin those limits. Dave

Update: I thought it was the wastegate as well but if the wastegate blows open, I would see 0psi at the lowest. I was seeing full vacuum with my foot buried in the floorpan. I had the duct spring laying there so I took out the hose and put the spring back in. Went for a spin and no more problem! Oh well I should never have doubted those Nissan Engineers and left the spring in there. This also indicates that my home-made cold air intake and Fram truck filter are causing restrictions. BTW Roostmonkey Thanks,It was a good idea to remove the air filter as a test. It still hesitates a bit at part throttle while boost is building and smokes a bit too at that transition but I think I need to go over all connections and test all components again. I am thinking that it is definately a mixture curve vs. boost curve issue.

Can this be happening to me? With my new TO4B Hybrid turbo, I build to 14psi by about 2800rpm and it pulls hard through 3rd gear up to about 4700 rpms and then, with my foot still to the floor, the boost gauge goes to 22" vacuum!!!! and power disappears like someone turned off the key! I am using the stock rubber boot between the AFM and the Turbo but I removed the metal coil from the inside of it. I can't explain what else would cause this problem. The rest of the upstream intake tract is not collapsing because it is rigid. Once the problem occurs. I lift my foot for about 2 seconds and hammer it again and pulls hard and then repeats all over again. Also, what would cause half throttle, low boost (5psi), stutter, and black puffs of richness smoke? Once I get through the stuttering and smoke period I can go to full throttle. Boost builds and it rockets away. Stock fuel system and ignition all set to factory spec. AFM spring adjusted to get good running. Some tech details in my sig. (FMU Disconnected)